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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Paul, up at the top of this area is a pinned post for the Byrnes Reference done by Jeff when he owned Hobby Mill. There is a good section in that PDF for blades (toothcount vs. wood thickness) that really applies to all our hobby saws.
  2. mtaylor
    A masterpiece, Karl.
  3. mtaylor
    Kloppie, please post in English (you can use an on-line translator like Google.
  4. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Gary. I hope that you can post about the progress once this project is underway.
  5. mtaylor
    I think for "nesting" they used a cradle (one piece forward and one aft) in the larger boat and the smaller sat on top of it. I'll have to do some digging in my library to find out where I read tha.
  6. mtaylor
    I see you've gone into mass production mode so the air brush is a great thing. Your fighters are coming together nicely.
  7. mtaylor
    Denis, That's not unusual that there's a train station and no tracks. The city I grew up in had that with one station no tracks and many of the streets had areas of tracks from the streetcars and even railroads that no longer ran there. They pulled up or just covered the tracks with they repaved the streets.
  8. mtaylor
    Thanks for the explanation. I hope you can sort it out.
  9. mtaylor
    Been a long time since I've anything digital at component level...so take this with a grain of salt. Feel free to tell me to go sit in the corner if you wish. "Jitter" as I recall can be caused by several things. One is the charge time on any caps in the circuit or also the choice of processor. There doesn't appear to be any shielding or decoupling methods here. Depending the frequency this operates at you could be picking up a lot of circuit noise. Might be that motor controller is what you need as that's what this circuit is doing. Do you have any "friends" that have a TV repair shop? Or are HAMS? I"m thinking for a o'scope. Lastly, double check (use magnification and check all your solder joins. You could have a solder hair crossing terminations which is something I did more than few times back in the day.
  10. mtaylor
    That would be our defensive perimeter to keep mom out of our area.
  11. mtaylor
    Alan, My curiosity is up. How are you leveling this machine? Are you using a bubble level? A measurement from the bench to the deck? Is the bench level? It strikes me as curious that the others aren't having this problem. I would think a bubble level would be used to get it level so there's no variation anywhere else. Then again, I might have missed this part of your set up.
  12. mtaylor
    Maybe we need a poll on who didn't break that part on the false deck? I broke it also.
  13. mtaylor
    That is one stunning model and matches the real thing. Very impressive work.
  14. mtaylor
    That's what I've found out. Anyway my copy is being re-homed to Justin. Pity I"m not 30 years younger so I could build all the ones I wanted.
  15. mtaylor
    That is one impressive model and not just in size. You're doing great.
  16. mtaylor
    Looking very good from here.
  17. mtaylor
    Thanks for the likes and comments. I'm working on it but not gong to rush it. I can break parts with the best of them if I get in a hurry. Just a short one... Jigs have been assembled and put into place. True, there should be 4 at the stern but "oops" happens". I'm using "oops" to replace the colorful metaphors that turned the air blue. I still have the missing pieces, I'll see if I can glue them back into position before picking up and apply sand paper in quantity. I also dug out my shipyard's master shipwright and have him checking things out on the deck. Now to start sanding... and sanding.. and.... you get the idea.
  18. mtaylor
    Bill, The use of "blue" for much of the Vasa was an "oops" on the part of the archeology team. They were sampling some wood for colors and someone said it was all over the upper works. Turns out, it was a combination of not doing enough samples and from the wrong place. I remember from the old USENET discussion with the gentleman running the preservation (Hocker if I remember right) when they realized what had changed. He was apologetic to all the builders of the model... some could change the colors including the figures. Same for the figures. There was some gold detected early on and it was assumed that they were all gold. Well.. they weren't.
  19. mtaylor
    I've just used acetone (soak, stir, soak for maybe a total of 10 minutes) , rinse, vinegar (to add the "tooth" for about 10 minutes), rinse, and then blacken the part. I use straight tap water for the rinsing but have added a final rinse in distilled water as my current water supply is pretty hard.
  20. mtaylor
    Will there be room for Frenchies?
  21. mtaylor
    I'm up to instruction 115. Been a bit of touch and go due to a small accident but all is well... Had a paint spill while painting the aft end of the deck clamps and spirketting. Nothing major just some drippage but ended up it was to just to paint them as they'll be pretty much in the dark. Note to self.... stop being a clumsy putz. Here's the current state of things.
  22. mtaylor
    I moved this to the area that might get you an answer since it's a soldering problem.
  23. mtaylor
    Michael, that is great news to read. The healing will take some time so don't push it.
  24. mtaylor
    That is probably the best way to do this project and to learn. Just curious, do you have any power tools like a scroll saw? I've also seen plans on the Net for mounting a hand held scroll saw upside down with the blade coming out on top.
  25. mtaylor
    The rats look good. She'll be primed and ready for sea pretty soon it looks like.

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