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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. The book Mark recommends is here: http://www.google.it.ao/books?id=PK50sbOOfjUC&pg=PA400&focus=viewport&dq=editions:STANFORD36105044360084&lr=&output=html_text You can also order the book from various sellers, just Google: "'A Treatise on Naval Gunnery' by General Sir Howard Douglas"
  2. For cotton thread, use a new blade in your hobby knife or sewing scissors. I find that it helps to brush the area of the cut lightly with a 50-50 mix of white glue and water. Let it dry so while it's drying, do something else on the model , then cut with hobby knife or scissors. I'm partial to using sewing scissors. I have one that is only used for rigging thread.
  3. Tough question to say the least. The best answer I've found is here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naval_artillery About halfway down the page is a table. The problem is that wind, waves, etc. could impact the range and accuracy as well as the age and condition of the gunpowder. Wear on the barrels and the degree of precision or lack there of during casting usually meant that the bores were never exact and thus the "windage" varied or the space between the cannon shot and the barrel. Which probably leads us to how far apart the ships were in battle? From accounts, they could be practically muzzle-to-muzzle or at the maximum range. Accuracy did decrease as the range got longer, though. And since the normal strategy was "close with the enemy", I'd assume they were pretty close to each other.
  4. I agree with Keith. I have to look twice to make sure I'm seeing a model and not a real boat.
  5. For around $99 you can buy the "student" version of CorelDraw. It will do both pixel types and also true CAD but it is 2D not 3D. I think they might have a 3D version but I've not looked for one.
  6. Welcome to MSW, Ernie. When you're ready, feel free to start a build log as it's a great way to get help and make friends. Feel free to ask questions at any time.
  7. Interesting that in that video, there is a "cover" of Playboy magazine by the foreward head which didn't start publishing until the mid-50's. Otherwise, nicely done but I do agree with the blue LED's.
  8. From here, it looks like you have climbed right up on top of the learning curve and it's a run to the finish.
  9. Jim, I did the same for 18 years (tech writer). AL instructions are not great and part may be the translation. When I started my Constellation I noticed the Italian was maybe a paragraph and the English was one or two sentences. Ended up translating the Italian and had several "ah ha!" moments. Jack, Sorry about that hand... not fun. Is there some keel pieces going on her fore and aft? I hope so. Maybe using some scrap to make them a bit wider might solve your "short" problem?
  10. If you don't want the investment of tools, and in the States, check to see if there's a "Makerspace" in or near your location. Most have all the wood working tools (but in the large shop size not the model size) you could hope for to turn billets into modeling wood. Some even have laser cutters for turning the modeling wood into parts. You may have to schedule ahead of time but worth the wait.
  11. Here's the easy way to do it: This is located pinned at the top of the Kit Builds section.
  12. Interesting find. Wikipedia shows only a 24 gun ship by that name and year.
  13. Siol, Have you planked yet? There's a couple of ways to do this depending.... You might look at the other logs for this kit and see how they did it. Got to the top of the Kit Logs section and there's an index you can download.
  14. Looking great, Channell. I have to say that if you're insane, then all the rest of us are also.
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