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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks for the comments, the likes, and sticking with this journey. No worries on the dime anymore... I spent it. I made the chocks and installed them into the Licorne. I've since been attacking the drawings making fixes for error areas discovered on this boat. Here's some pictures of it in place. It's not glued in yet as I need access to the area astern where the mainmast goes. Once I'm done figuring out if I need to pre-installed suitable lengths of line for rigging the mast, I'll do that. I suspect this will keep me off the streets and out of trouble for a few days.
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I just "re-discovered" this build, Kevin. Looking good and it should keep you busy for quite awhile. I think on the bridge's roof, you'd need to put a lining that hangs down inside to fit the walls of the bridge. Like the tabs are used on a plastic model.
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- finished
- mountfleet models
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Question about table saw technique
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Great news JD. As for the picture.. check the size of it. I find that if limit my pictures (by cropping or editing the size) to 1500 pixels maximum per dimension they load fine. -
Lists lining cannonports
mtaylor replied to TomJonas's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I'm not sure either what a "list" is. If it's framing around the inside of the port, I'd think the kit would have that done before the planking. I could be wrong on this kit though. Edit: They don't do it that way. I've searched through the logs and here's the way the only one who has got that far did it: -
Google in Chrome is your friend. There's nine dots in a square on the upper right hand of all the pages. One of the items is translate. If you past the URL of the site into Google, on the results page click on the link you want. You should get a translate option. Note that this happens in Chrome. For IE, right click on the page once open, and one of the options is "translate with Bing". Bing is rather crappy compated to Google Chrome's translate. Firefox currently has translating disabled due to some security issues caused by their latest updates.
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Morbid, I'm not sure if that's the right word. Maybe a bit but I've seen dioramas of shipwrecks and other disasters. You could shorten the backstory where he's taking supplies to the city and not have the coffin in the build. Or forget the backstory but carry on as this might have been used for delivery of supplies. But, you are the builder and as such your feeling on this is respected.
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Marc, I love the research and way the model is coming together. I do have a question. Seems your biggest issue is reconciling the sketches with each other. Are we sure these are not treatments for consideration by the master shipwrights? Sort of a design to be considered? I would think that a painting (if it were done where the artist could see it, would be closer to what the ship looked like. It's still fascinating research you're doing.
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I see no blemishes or errors, Patrick. And yes, I'm wearing my glasses and screen zoom is at 115%.
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Thanks for the likes and comments. Thanks for the link Johann. Yours was one of the logs I tried to emulate. I failed in that yours is just about perfect. I know mine is not but I am happy the way it turned out. The dime is about 17mm in diameter. Pierre is 30 mm from bottom of the base to top of his measuring staff. For those not on metric... Pierre is 1-1/8". I guess I need to sort out a universal measurement. Something creative but I'll have to be careful. I can't use a sparrow as there are differences between the European and African sparrow according to Monte Python. Didn't get a chance today to work on things but the last bit is the chocks on deck for the long boat.
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Sopwith Camel F.1 - Model Airways - 1/16 Scale (3/4" = 1')
mtaylor replied to DocBlake's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I love that build video. I shudder to think how much effort went into the stop action of the parts being put together. The ending is a nice touch. -
The French did "interesting" things at times. The tried different rigging and masting on various ships to see if it improved things. This might be one of ships that had a test rig on it.
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Question about table saw technique
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The other advantage to letting the saw do the work (besides chip removal) that I can see is that the blade stays cooler and reduces the chance of warping it. -
Your best bet may be to follow the other builds. I can understand having the aft most shroud use a block as often that one side or another would be backed off so the lower yard could be swung into the best postion for the wind. A tight shroud would stop that.
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Cleaned up and dyed the oarlocks and then installed them. Also made the cannon (let's call them "popguns" ) mounts and installed them. The only thing left is the sheave and supports on the stern. The catch is I'm tad undecided as there's three distinct types... there's a sheave on top of the stern, or a sheave hanging off the stern to the rear (not onto) or there's no sheave. I'll ponder this a bit longer while I work on the chocks for putting this boat into the hull. I'm also working and tweaking the plans for the barge which is smaller, unarmed (no cannon mounts) and looks essentially like the barge. I put a dime and Pierre into the second picture to give a sense of scale. Here's the pictures. Not perfect but I'm pretty happy with it. So unless I get a sudden "ah-hah.. I can do this better" moment, on the next barge.
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Accounts of various ships going down do mention that the rafts came off. However, they were usually pulled under (along crewmen too close the ship) and were pulled under by the "suction" of the ship going under the surface. I suspect that when the order to abandon ship was given (if there was time) jumping off and swimming as far away as you could get would be the priority. As for swimming, I don't know if the army did teach swimming in boot camp like the Navy and Marines did.. The Army Air Corp air crews (fighter and bomber) did though.
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Looking good, Steve. Are you sure you want to risk all this detail work and put it in a lake? I'd be seriously nervous myself.
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I'm not familiar with this model as there's no other builds listed for it. However, looking at the drawings, the first shroud goes from 79 to the masthead, around it and down to the block at 115. It is tied off at pin 117. The other two... (unnumberd) would be siezed to the deadeye(another part114) (the middle one) run up, around the masthead and back down and be seized at the last deadeye (another part 114). I'm assuming those are deadeyes with a single There are two deadeyes that are unused. If you look at your figure 35, this shows how the shroud would be seized. I hope I didn't misunderstand the question and that my answer helps.
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I hope you'll either add to this log or open a new one for the display, Kevin. The dock will be interesting to follow.
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