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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. OC, Dafi has hooks and other assorted goodies (etched brass) for the Heller 1/100 scale Vic. I bought the hook sheet and it's working for me at 1/64. Have a look here: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker7
  2. i used Chuck's guns for my Licorne as 6 and 4 pounders. I would think you could go either way as far as cannons or carriages. But you might ping Chuck to get dimensions to double check.
  3. Hi Kip,
  4. It's been awhile since I looked in. I like what you did to the shop and Cutty seems to be back in the yard and progress being made.
  5. I love your work on your steel navy build, Greg. Just excellent eye for detail and great workmanship.
  6. I would order a couple of each of the ones you'll need (for spares and to save shipping/handling) to cut the sizes of wood you'll use. I order mine from Thurston and they're good blades. http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html
  7. I've found that brass rod isn't always as round as it should be, so I touch rod up in a lathe. If it's out of round that causes problems also.
  8. Thanks for looking in and the likes everyone. Thanks Pat. The laser is a blessing as I couldn't cut that accurately. I'm still sorting things out. I ended tossing the work above and re-doing it with some tweeking and am starting to plank, again with boxwood. I'm a lot happier with the mods I made a day ago or so. It also struck me that I should build the "big" boat first and work down from there, but no.. I have to do it the hard way, start tiny and get bigger.
  9. Chuck, I think the reason for why the other "guys" don't flip to fit parts is that they never thought of it, or somehow tied into time and money.... not sure. On the laser rebuild... do it one step at a time and test/re-test before the next bit. I'd do the power supply first, the mirrors and then the tube. Take photos of the wiring and check then check again that the wiring matches. I found that if I aligned mirrors as I changed them out (one at a time) when I did the tube, there was minimal fiddling. It's a PITA to be sure but taking time, going slow and douible even triple checking pays off. Oh... don't try to splice the high voltage led (red) to the tube. If you must connect... solder the leads and lots of heat shrink insulation. Try to do that part in a place in the chassis where the joint is well away from any metal. Don't ask how I know... it still pains me to remember.
  10. Here's the documentation that was on one of our wood supplier's website. It's an excellent resource and includes his recommended blades... I'm having a brain f**t and even though I bought a lot of wood from him, I can't remember his name...<sigh> Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
  11. I vaguely remember a monograph being offered for L'Ocean. I'll have to do some digging as to where but then, I might be remembering wrong.
  12. Like a lot of things, the yards knew what was needed and things don't always show up in prints that were part of the ship. Is there a contract available for the vessel you're interested in as it should list what was there.
  13. Indeed, I agree with Pete. You're off to an excellent start.
  14. Folks, when someone asks for an address, real, email, etc... send it to them a PM. This site gets crawled by bots and spammers so take precautions to protect yourself. Nat, I'd delete your two posts and if you can't contact a moderator.
  15. Welcome back, Pete. The shop is looking good.
  16. No math really on tapering.... just tic strips and counting planks. There's tutorials here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ and in the database here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php Take a look at them and pic the one you like. There's a simplified method in the database.
  17. We all work from plans... Rule for a scratch is if you cut the keel and frames/bulkheads, it's a scratch. BTW, it's great you got this moved.
  18. Looking good, Ken. Since this is now a scratch build, change the title to reflect that and ping a moderator to move it.
  19. Ah... this model is NOT one of the first frigates. The AL kit is a fraud. We had a total system crash back some years and lost everything so this is actually a kit bash. As I explained way back early on, what sits in Baltimore, which the plans were taken from decades ago, is the sloop of war from 1854. There were some shenanigans pulled when they acquired her to make everyone belief this was one of them. Drop the following into Google (minus the quotes) and you see what I mean: "fouled anchors the constellation question answered". Given that the plans for the orginal frigate have gone missing, there's really no plans to build the first Constellation. I was disheartened to find that out, but such is life.
  20. About halfway down the homepage, you'll see this: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/9-members-build-logs/
  21. No... not really. The bulkhead (POB) kits usually use plywood or similar and about the only decks to be built are the gun deck and upper decks fore and aft. Look at Chuck's Winchester (link below) as an example or almost any AL kit as examples. A POF would be like my Licorne and probably 80% of the scratch builds. POF more closely resemble actual practice and allow everything below decks to be done. Other than the Orniada I don't recall any of the Lumberyard's Hahn sets being precut for the frames. Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard) did some that fully framed. I've attached a link for one of those build.
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