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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Darrel, Did you steam the planks and bend them before installing them? I'm doing my ship's boats now and I've found that's only way to keep the hull from deforming.
  2. Nice see you heading towards scratch. i'm also surprised to see the build board being off that much. From here,the guns and carriages look great. Will you stay with the cast pieces or making your own?
  3. Old wood is probably pretty brittle and mahogany isn't known for it's bendability anyway. What you can do build up what you need is layers by rip[ping it into thin blanks and then shaping and pre-bending each piece (layer). Make a jig to match the bend required for the bending part. Then stack the pieces together for the final bending. Glue them together and put back on the jig to dry.
  4. Now why did you make the warning after I sprayed coffee..?? I think spilling paint is a rite of passage or maybe just experience. I'm trying NOT to use paint to save the carpet.
  5. I'll pull up a chair and watch from the cheap seats while munching on some popcorn. This should be interesting to see how you each interpret and proceed on the builds.
  6. It's an interesting build, Archie. Something out of the norm and you're doing a great job. What's not to like?
  7. Great work there, on those fiddly bits. Yancovitch is right. I'm not sure if all the aftermarket PE people pay a royalty or not.
  8. No need to drive, Kurt. There's always shopping on the Internet. Where I am, it's about the only way to get any thing for this hobby, except wood glue, sandpaper, and the like.
  9. Just... what? More than amazing and stunning. I'm printing those last ones out and will hang a couple in the workshop for inspiration.
  10. He does make a horizontal machine.. https://shipworkshop.com/products/tools/ropewalk-planetary-3.1 I have the older model which is excellent and also the parts to convert it to the "newer' model for 3 strands and a center one but haven't set that up yet.
  11. Most, of the Lumberyard offerings are only timbering kits. However, the Oneida appears to be a complete kit as is the Caustic. A quick email to The Lumberyard will verify this.
  12. Looks great, Grant. I don't dare show the picture of that cutting board to my admiral, however. That is a work of art.
  13. OC, Dafi has hooks and other assorted goodies (etched brass) for the Heller 1/100 scale Vic. I bought the hook sheet and it's working for me at 1/64. Have a look here: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker7
  14. i used Chuck's guns for my Licorne as 6 and 4 pounders. I would think you could go either way as far as cannons or carriages. But you might ping Chuck to get dimensions to double check.
  15. Hi Kip,
  16. It's been awhile since I looked in. I like what you did to the shop and Cutty seems to be back in the yard and progress being made.
  17. I love your work on your steel navy build, Greg. Just excellent eye for detail and great workmanship.
  18. I would order a couple of each of the ones you'll need (for spares and to save shipping/handling) to cut the sizes of wood you'll use. I order mine from Thurston and they're good blades. http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html
  19. I've found that brass rod isn't always as round as it should be, so I touch rod up in a lathe. If it's out of round that causes problems also.
  20. Thanks for looking in and the likes everyone. Thanks Pat. The laser is a blessing as I couldn't cut that accurately. I'm still sorting things out. I ended tossing the work above and re-doing it with some tweeking and am starting to plank, again with boxwood. I'm a lot happier with the mods I made a day ago or so. It also struck me that I should build the "big" boat first and work down from there, but no.. I have to do it the hard way, start tiny and get bigger.
  21. Chuck, I think the reason for why the other "guys" don't flip to fit parts is that they never thought of it, or somehow tied into time and money.... not sure. On the laser rebuild... do it one step at a time and test/re-test before the next bit. I'd do the power supply first, the mirrors and then the tube. Take photos of the wiring and check then check again that the wiring matches. I found that if I aligned mirrors as I changed them out (one at a time) when I did the tube, there was minimal fiddling. It's a PITA to be sure but taking time, going slow and douible even triple checking pays off. Oh... don't try to splice the high voltage led (red) to the tube. If you must connect... solder the leads and lots of heat shrink insulation. Try to do that part in a place in the chassis where the joint is well away from any metal. Don't ask how I know... it still pains me to remember.
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