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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Looking good, Patrick. The deck lines are coming out and showing what a beautiful yacht this is.
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HMS Victory by juzek
mtaylor replied to juzek's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
This is an interesting build method. Will the plug or mold be removed at some point? -
Nice work so far, Tony. Your progress looks very good.
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- triton cross-section
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Thanks for looking in and either "liking" or commenting. Just a bit of an update. Forgive me if I get longwinded as I'm thinking outloud here... and open to suggestion. We're still slogging away at planking the lower (orlop) deck. Thankfully, I have a Proxxon Belt Sander which makes tapering the planks go quickly and accurately. I do finish fitting using sanding sticks though as a few times, things have got away from me ended up chewed up and across the room. Fumble fingers I am. The deck will still need serious sanding but that's on hold until after it's planked and the ceiling has been put it. My thinking is why clean up two messes when I can do the whole thing once and clean up once. The mizzen mast step is in for location only and not glued. This whole process has me thinking further ahead than normal.. like the next two decks worth. I should install two beams/carlings at each hatchway first then fully plank and cut out the hatchways after planking. The center planks do need to be tapered also (the raised planking) The hatches need to sit on top of the deck planks. <facepalm> I've also discovered that not all the hatches on this deck and the gundeck have grates. Many have planks over the hatchways instead of grates. I'm also fiddling with plans and seeing if I can copy the Belle Poule planking scheme onto them. This will let (hopefully) me cut the deck planks from a sheet of wood using the Deathstar. The Great Cabin is still being researched. The Belle Poule had a lozenge type parquet deck there. Some other 8 pdr and 12 pdr frigates, just had straight planks... so I may end up flipping a coin. Nah... I'm leaning towards the parquet and again, running the pattern up in Corel and lasercutting it. I find I'm getting lazy in my old age. Then there's the partitions on this deck and the gundeck (only 1 there) plus the cabins and storerooms. I'm working on drawings to make templates for these. It appears that the partition on the gundeck for the Great Cabin wasn't removable. I'm still looking for info on this. As a sidenote, the Great Cabin was a wardroom and not the Captains cabin. There was a removable canvas partition in the center area for his bedplace which was taken down every morning. The cabin itself and the quarter galleries was used by all the officers as a common room for meetings, rest, and meals. There was a lot of complaining about this by the officers and even more after the edict was passed that roundhouses for the officers on the aft castle were not allowed. They were allowed (unofficially) for awhile but had to be temporary in nature. At the time of her capture, Licorne had quite a few which probably affected her handling. I'm not putting those on as to my eye, they detract from her lines and appearance. I don't have the problem on this deck, but on the next up, using the Deathstar will let me mark accurately where all the eyebolts go around the main mast. Anyway, enough out me. Any thoughts or insights are, as always, appreciated.
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Nice work on the hull and good on your for the protective gear. You're very close from looking at the pictures. A couple of nudges with sandpaper and you'll be there.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Looking great, Nenad. The capstan bars came out well. As for the axe... dwarvish might be too small. And remember not to go to the elves for advice as they will tell you both "yes" and "no".- 4,151 replies
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- cutty sark
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Dan, That's part of where I'm buried in.... But life has got in the way but I am making progress. There's also the issue of bending the deck planking to fit the curve of the hull with a bit of head scratching going on. But I think I'm on the right track at this point. Lower deck, not raised in the center section, gundeck it is raised. Also I'm noting that the coaming for the hatches sit on top of the planks at least on the lower deck. I did the first version gundeck with the raised center section and flush hatches. I'm also looking hard at the Belle Poule plans but they seem a bit different as the center planks weren't raised. And then there's the matter of the Great Cabin decking... which I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I do believe that 3rd picture down is the cross-section for Licorne. Now if we look at the that section... lower deck hatch coamings and gundeck coamings are on top of the planks, not flush. I'm not pushing too hard on the lower deck.. I'm getting a feel for the work and the look and have had several starts, stops and restarts but that seems to go with the turf. The gundeck will get the full monty or as much of it as I can bring about. The other thing I'm still running up against is some things were done the "old way" similar to Renommee as when built. Other's done the "new" way more like Belle Poule. I hope it'll get sorted the further I get.
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Charlie, The rule of thumb is if you make the keel and the framing/bulkheads yourself, it's a scratch. You might check with a moderator to be sure that's still in effect.
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From what I'm seeing, it looks like this is a very well thought out project. It should be interesting to watch.
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Up on post #8... the lasered sheet. Welcome to the "darkside".... and I hope you have fun.
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Interesting work, Charlie. I'm following along also. Is that MDF you're cutting or ????
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I believing that there's more deconstruction in your future? Amazing work on her, Daniel. Just amazing.
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I believing that there's more deconstruction in your future? Amazing work on her, Daniel. Just amazing.
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Looks good, Jack. I've never thought about wire rope before.
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I wish you good luck on getting her ready and in the water Jerry. Chase boats can be good, right?
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I think there's some patinas by Jax (who do the pewter black and brass black many of us use for cannons, etc.) that might work.
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Mike, The only thing I can bring to this discussion is that it does match Chapman. The French "Le Renommee" doesn't have the open stern. Also, the Frencj quarter galleries from the period are different. Similar but different in that they are "flatter". But I suspect you've already noticed that. A couple of other points... the French used "fireplaces" and not stove like the Brits and the French had at an oven in their frigates. Now that's not to say that there wasn't a privateer of the same name that doesn't show up on the books as privateers were not "official" navy ships.
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File recommendation please
mtaylor replied to Sunsanvil's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I go cheap on the sanding sticks. I get the fingernail files (disposable type) from a local (Sally's -- a chain store) beauty supply house. They run usually less than a dollar apiece and come in various grits. I also make my own using sticky back sandpaper or just glue the paper to some scrap wood with the needed shape and size. -
Keelson material
mtaylor replied to MESSIS's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Which ship? Up until the age of iron hulls, they were wood. -
Red Paint or Red Ochre
mtaylor replied to davyboy's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Mark, I think red lead paint was a later development in the sail era and used on the outside of the hull. Red ochre was used inside as was whitewash. -
Scroll saw for bow pieces and frames
mtaylor replied to Brucealanevans's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Where are you located Bruce? Here in the States a good scroll saw and/or bandsaw can be purchased at any DIY place like Lowe's or Home Depot for a lot less than $500. I have an 18" HItachi which does all that I could want in a scroll saw from the smallest pieces to wood for home projects.
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