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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Nicely done, Augie. So now that the stove is ready, what's for dinner?
  2. mtaylor
    Alan, Just one of the coolest things I've heard about lately. The picture says it all.
  3. mtaylor
    It may have been the other way around in this case... it was designed in 1928.
  4. mtaylor
    Looking good, Sjors. Have nice couple of days off and then get back to work on the Aggie!!!!
  5. mtaylor
    I'm just catching up, Patrick. Wonderful work so far. I hope you'll go for the lights. I found it really brings interest to the model even if stuff is hidden.
  6. mtaylor
    Beautiful grate and coamings. I like the ebony look for the coamings as it makes the grates jump out.
  7. mtaylor
    Beautiful Dan. I'd love to see your technique as I'm looking a Prof. Tilley's article and looking to try it. Have a great vacation.
  8. mtaylor
    What jbelwood said.. I couldn't have said it better.
  9. mtaylor
    So who would have thought that for the last two days I've been running around in a short-sleeved shirt outside. It's been almost 70 degrees F. Now it's more normal, raining and In the 40's. Which means, the sawpits have been busy. Christian, use whatever is useful to you. Pat, thank you for the nice comment. Aldo.. I've missed seeing you around. I hope you're doing better. And thanks for the nice comment. George and everyone else, may Christmas be filled with love and warmth and the new year with good things and good times.
  10. mtaylor
    Wow! <picks jaw up from floor> Just wow!
  11. mtaylor
    Beautiful work and that table is just great. Have a wonderful Christmas and I hope it's a great 2015 for you.
  12. mtaylor
    Looks great, Mark. I had thought about doing frames for the whole ship that way, but it is a pain and time consuming.
  13. mtaylor
    Alan, Seeing the look on his face made me smile too. Great job on her.
  14. mtaylor
    Fam, On the bending... apply heat. You can steam the planks, put them in hot water (boiling hot), or soak and use an electric plank bender or a curling iron. The thicker the wood, the more soaking and heating need to be applied.
  15. mtaylor
    Dr. Per, That one is the top top top of the line... I opted for cheap.... but it seems to do the job: http://www.lowes.com/pd_549708-20097-5872511_0__?productId=50159057&Ntt=shop+vacuums&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dshop%2Bvacuums&facetInfo=
  16. mtaylor
    Very well done, Magnus. Actually, correct that.... Amazing work.
  17. mtaylor
    Use as few or as many as you want or have. My heaviest used power tools are the table saw and scroll saw, followed by the mill (doubles as a drill press) and lathe (minimal... guns, some round stock, etc.) Most important tool... a good shop vac for dust control and clean-up as my shop is in a spare bedroom.
  18. mtaylor
    Depends on the thickness of the wood. Have a look here... I know it's for the Byrnes saw, but the blade selection and tips are worth the read: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php If you know the diameter and the hole size, try Thurston: http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html
  19. mtaylor
    Anthony, I've got one it's not a bad tool. It won't do production work or take a large amount of material off on one pass but for what it does, it does it well. I've thicknessed ebony, boxwood, cherry, and am currently running swiss pear through it. Depending on the wood, one might need to swap out sanding drums for a different grit. Mine's NOT bolted down as I move it about from bench to storage to outside, etc. As long as the wood isn't forced through, I've no problem. It takes a bit of practice to find the feed rate. I'm currently re-thicknessing some 1/16" (about 2mm) strips down to 1/32" (about 1 mm) with minor issues such as if the piece slips out of my hand on the output side, it gets pulled back into the sander and destroyed pretty quickly. I have it set, run the strip through to take it down and flip the wood over and do it again to smooth out that side also. Bigger pieces of wood haven't been a problem. A few suggestions... you'll need a pair of snap ring pliers for changing drums and belts and order some extra belts. And by all means run a shop vac on the outlet port. These things do dump out a huge amount of sawdust. A good comparison is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3393-thickness-sandersbyrnes-vs-micro-mart/
  20. mtaylor
    Charlie, ModelExpo used to but I'm not sure if they still do. You might also check Ages of Sail.
  21. mtaylor
    Thank you for the "likes" and comments even when I've done a bone-headed stunt like that. It keeps me honest and on my toes. Christian, The modified fence idea came from Grant and Danny and fences are just a bit of creative usage. So.. no... I stole all the ideas. Chuck, They go from the main wales up and there's one wide one for the garboard strake. Hopefully, I won't need a lot of sanding. I'll recheck the fairing after I'm done cutting as I've found one small area that needs a tweak in the fairing. I hope everyone has a great Holiday and in the meantime, I'll keep thicknessing and cutting for now.
  22. mtaylor
    A beautiful ship, Matija. You did her well. I love the details like painting/carving(?) on the tiller.
  23. mtaylor
    Looking super nice, Alan. Being on schedule is a big plus... Can't wait to see the final pictures.
  24. mtaylor
    You can try the fans. What someone (I think it's RustyJ's Winchelsea build) did was make a box with holes in it. The shop vac plugs into it and all sanding is done on top such that the sawdust is pulled into the box and then the vac. If your vac has an exit port that accepts a hose, run a hose out of the shop so the dust goes outside. Or, get a shop vac that uses a bag and a filter. I have one of those and work in the house. There's no dust going anywhere. I also set it up to suck up the dust if I'm doing massive sanding with frequent stops to vacuum up any that falls by the wayside the rest of the time.
  25. mtaylor
    George, I don't have a Jim Saw...those are from MicroMark as I have their saw. Hmm.. I'm wondering if it would save the cost of blades to run them backwards? :D

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