mtaylor

Thanks Druxey. I'm assuming a slip fit type of coupling? I think I'll Google for a bit as these little things raise my ears and poke my curiousity button.

Sweet!!!!!! and she looks great on the driftwood base.

I'm just sitting here smiling. What a great picture of everyone.

Fascinating research and reading. Have a question though. The screw could be raised and lowered so what connected the screw to the propshaft? Or did the propshaft also raise?

Amazing metalwork, Danny. And nice tutorial to boot.

No worries. Good to hear that you figured it out. Can you tell us how you fixed it? Might help someone else out down the road a bit.

Frankie, Good point about titling posts. We moderators try, but we don't catch everything.

I like that. A variable jig!! Great idea.

Nenad, I'm in agreement with Edward. Only if there's no other way to fix something should it be dumped. But this is wood and wood can be fixed. In this case, maybe a strip of wood glued over the planking? Or a bit of cutting and fitting? I hope you can get to the fortress. There's a lot of history in those walls.

The low power looks good. I was surprised on my Constellation how little light it takes to bring things to life.

Looking great Piet. And you say that paper stretches and conforms to the shape.... I'm amazed. They look like preformed plates.

There are two types of sellers.... 1. Model Builders who just have some second hand tools, kits, etc and wish to sell them to other hobbyists. You must be a member in good standing at MSW to post stuff for sale if you are in this category.....You must have 25 or posts on MSW as a member in good standing to post stuff for sale. 2. Commercial business....online stores No advertising/self promotion is allowed on the forum. If your business is interested in posting about your products or services, please contact admin (Chuck) about becoming a sponsor of this site. As a sponsor you will be able to promote your products and services here in the the traders and dealers area as well as have a banner linked to your website along the right side of the forums main page. Unless you are a sponsor of this site, All commercial business promotion is forbidden without permission from the administrators. Those in category one......Please read.......If you wish to sell something here on MSW, please read and follow the rules given. We're not, by nature, a suspicious bunch. But over the years here and in other forums, people with something to sell have come in and offered various and sundry items. Not all have been honest. So please, follow these guidelines so that everyone has a pleasant experience. You must have been a member that has 25 posts before you can post a topic in this forum. 1) Post some pictures of the item. 2) Offer to give your phone number via PM. 3) Offer Paypal or some other secure transaction method. 4) Provide a price (given the different currencies, put the price in your currency). 5) Be sure to post your real name, location by city and country. 6) Do not post personal data such as addresses, emails, etc. You will probably get spammed, etc. as this forum can be read by anyone including miscreants. Lastly, expect questions and do answer them.

Beautiful work, Ferit. Your pictures give the impression that it's the real thing and not a model.

I used a candle as the instructions suggested. Luckily, I had a second set of figures. The heat hits, they get soft and if you go just bit longer, they melt. Took some practice to heat, bend, cool, heat, bend, cool. Then paint after bending. I wish there was a surefire method and suggested hot or boiling water thinking it wouldn't melt them.

Richard, Here's Chuck's method.... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/273-mass-producing-rigging-blocks-with-a-mill/

Dragz, Have you looked in the Kit Build logs area? I see 4 build logs for this kit. From what I've seen on the logs, it does make a nice model but the logs would give you hints on the pitfalls (and models, kits or scratch have pitfalls).

We've all been there (and still are ). We want it done, we see the mistakes. When you're done with your break and feel like getting back into it. Ask yourself two questions: "Can I live with this?" and "Can I do better on the next one?". It's steep learning curve and if at some point we stopped moving forward on the build, we'd never progress and no model would ever be finished.

Matti, Try boiling water and dip the part (use some good tweezers and don't drop it). Test on some sprue first. Those cupolas are indeed tricky to get the figures to lay right.

Nice work, Kester. Looks like you're almost ready to bring in the riggers fulltime.

Darned if I can figure it out.. I'm missing something somewhere on how to do this. I'll ping some experts.....

Popeye, You are a wise man. I'm going to print that and put on my workbench.

I'm happy Gaetann posted. I was looking for his pictures...

I read over the code she used and it looks like all that Doris did was cut and paste the URL (addy) of the video into her post. The other possibility is goto Youtube and see if the "share" function gives you the correct URL. I'm at work and Youtube is blocked so I can't test it.

Chuck has nice "how-to" on milling blocks. Gaeten (gbordalou) uses a mill on his Le Fleuron. A pretty usefull tool overall, but it really shines at production runs of things.

Excellent progress and she's looking a ship now. Nice work.