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mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Copper, bronze and brass. How to treat them.
mtaylor replied to Modeler12's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Jay, Try annealing the bronze by heating to red hot and letting it cool. Works a treat to make brass workable. -
Warm, happy birthdays wishes to you, Anja. May there be many more cakes with many more candles ahead. And many more presents..
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Hi Robbyn, Here's a trick to get the top row of deadeyes all rotated and facing straight, more or less. Before running the lanyard, start at the top of the shroud and applying light pressure, pinch the shroud and pull your hand down the shroud to the deadeye. It should spin a bit during pulling. Then hold the deadeye in that postion and reeve the lanyard.
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- san francisco ii
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Juergen, If it's already painted, yep, too late to stain unless you want to remove the paint. Maybe next time, my friend. I've used ebony woodstain on several projects and have been very happy with it. Beats having ebony dust on everything.
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Sanding decks is tedious and tiring and with my fat fingers, problematical. So.. a tool, preferably power was called for. After remembering that a floor buffer could be used to sand a wooden floor, I reached for the Dremel. I'm using the mandrel for the cut-off disks and one of the felt buffing pads. A chunk of sandpaper is rubber cemented to the pad. I'm looking around for a rubber disk, the right size to perfect it a tad more. I turn the Dremel on low and hold it as perpendicular to the deck as I can get and apply next to zero pressure. It does a nice job, fast.
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Ben, Not Jeff. And I just found out, my supplier is doing better... hmm.. Anyway, sanding decks is tedious and tiring and with my fat fingers, problematical. So.. a tool, preferably power was called for. After remembering that a floor buffer could be used to sand a wooden floor, I reached for the Dremel. I'm using the mandrel for the cut-off disks and one of the felt buffing pads. A chunk of sandpaper is rubber cemented to the pad. I'm looking around for a rubber disk, the right size to perfect it a tad more. I turn the Dremel on low and hold it as perpendicular to the deck as I can get and apply next to zero pressure. It does a nice job, fast.
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Sweet work, Bob. Once the dreaded ratlines are done, things seem to speed up.
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Nice work on the Vic, Kevin. I remember your aggrevations early on and yes, the time spent was well worth it seeing her now. Got a question... something I never understood. Why would anyone go to war in a pre-sunk boat? :D And this coming from a guy who joined the US Marines for 4 years in a time of war.
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Ferit, Very nice work on the guns and rigging. And thanks for the explanation about the rigging line and blocks.
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Beautiful work, Wefalck. How stiff are the sails at this point? Would water soften things abit to allow you to fold/crumple?
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PSF, It's a hobby, not a job for almost all of us. If we can't have fun, then what's the point? Sjors, You and Anja do be careful with your toys. I think every tool I have has drawn blood so far so the advice for a first-aid kit is good. By the way, your side of the room does need a bit of cleaning.
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Tony, I'm just catching up on your log. You've done a fantastic job. Have the perseverance to keep hammering away until it's the way you want is paying big dividends. I like what you've done.
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JP, We're holding our breath for pictures... Rats... I'm soundling like someone else we know. As some fictional character once said: "Patience, Grasshopper". Both in planking and waiting for pictures, I guess.
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Nice to see you back Chris. You can always get co-operation from the little ones by threatening them with "boarding school". On your posting issue... after you've chosen the files and they've imported, click on each one in the order you want them using the "add to post". If you're still having issues, go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/
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Hi Gaetan, Yes, black is black. Put a finish on your test pieces and think you'll be very pleased. The black will come alive.
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Michael, There should be a club for this. I'm rather fond of trimming the ratline and snipping the shroud at the same time...
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Gripos-kaiki by Giorgos - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to Giorgos's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Very clean and precise. Beautiful work, Giorgos. -
Juergen, Instead of paint which hides the details, think about using an ebony stain. You get the black without hiding the grain, treenails, etc.
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Mercury by DSiemens - FINISHED - BOTTLE
mtaylor replied to DSiemens's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Daniel, We know Augie's been an influence... but now he's good one? :D Your Mercury is a seriously good-looking ship. I can't wait to see more. -
Daniel, Are you planning or adding all this detail to your Victory build? Or is this a great exercise in how-to? Fascinating work even if you don't add it to the build.
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Thanks for looking and your nice comments everyone. At this point, MkIV is looking better and better to my eyes (or maybe to my impatience?) and will probably be left in place. When I started this, I knew it was going to be a learning ship and this deck definitely was a learning experience. The new wood will not be showing up for at least a month due to the supplier's health issues so depending on where in the Licorne I head next, it may or may not be an option to rework. B.E. I don't know if the French used top and butt planking. I'm a former kit hacker/basher meself... Caroline, The MkIV is a kit-bashers hack since kits don't normally supply extra timber in extra-width stock. The appearnce now is that the waterway is laid ontop of the planking which was seldom done in real life. Bob, You, sir, are a master of understatement as anyone who has seen your builds can attest. Ben, I hope all goes well for you and yours and you can get back to the workshop and the good life. When I get home tonite, I'll be posting my latest sanding tool... a rotary deck sander that I think I got the bugs worked out on.
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Fairing a Hahn POF hull
mtaylor replied to butch's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Pete, There's lots of ways of fairing just as there are lots of builders. Many of us make our own sanding tools. I use a combination of round tubes, stiff plastic sheeting, even wood strips and blocks, all with sandpaper rubber cemented to them. It its easier to fair the inside before installing the fore and aft cant frames. I'd suggest crusing the various scratch logs, and not necessarily just the Hahn logs, as there's an abundance of good info on this. -
Nice work, Bob. Correction, make that excellent work.
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Have you checked the planking tutorials here; http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php They should give a clear picture.
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Jay, Since we're in agreement about Hahn... I have several AOTS books and their sizes don't always match up (drawing wise) for a give type gun. If you know or think you know which ship you want the cannon for, it may very well have to be a ship by ship search... or maybe it's shipyard or armory. I'm stil puzzled by this sort of thing. Standard, yet, non-standard seems to be the rule.
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