mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks for looking in and the support, everyone. When I saw this, I realised the fore and quarter decks will be the real canvas for the work. Christian, I had thought about it but then I recalled the Admiral's directive: completely planked, no "unfinished look".
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Tony, I have the MM saw. The slitting blades use the adapter. And yes, MM seems pricey on blades, etc. I too am looking for another source....
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Played with a mockup of how much of the gundeck will really be seen. It was a real eye-opener to me. The first pic show both the foredeck and quarterdeck and walkways mocked up and on "beams" The second shows how much is actually visable. Based on this, there's not going to be a MkV deck, but I do want that whole deck smooth as a baby's backside. And all appropriate furniture in place. Back to sanding and sanding and sanding and.....
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Popeye, She's looking grand with her finery hanging the breeze. I'm enjoying watching this build and the fun you're having with it.
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Nice fix on the "s" curve at the stern, Brian. She's looking good.
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Royal William by derebek - 1/72
mtaylor replied to derebek's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Nice work on the hull and lovely carving work. What kind of wood are you using for the carvings? -
Wonderful planking JP.. have one on me to celebrate.
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Nice work, Andy. If nothing else, if you don't add the blocks, you (and the rest of us) will know they're not there. But presumably, we can keep this secret... or not. But no pressure, no guilt. The pics were worth the wait.
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It's great to see this coming back, Len.
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Yes, an Oscar is required for this.... and maybe an acceptance speech?
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Piet, Simply wonderful craftsmanship. The planking is looking great.
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Martin, I'm sorry to hear about the accident. Seems lately I've heard of several and only one model related. Here's hoping you heal quickly....
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Next kit suggestion???? moved by moderator
mtaylor replied to Rich_engr's topic in Wood ship model kits
Rich, You've set your scale, so in my opinion, build the one you want. Those are all good choices. Even the Conny's probably not out of your league. -
Rats... I went to all that trouble and I could have bought one??? Oh well.. it was good experience anyway.
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Rafterrat_2005 I posted an answer to you in the Request Access topic.
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Randy, See here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/341-micro-power-sanders/ I'm using the top one on the deck for finishing. Augie, Sorry for the oversight.
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Jay, I almost bought one of those, but it's still way to big to get into hull. There's some serious tumblehome to deal with. Thanks for the comments everyone. I thought I'd add a bit more.... I'm using 220 grit with a very very light touch. Too much and I'll get swirl marks which I found out in testing on scrap. Too large a grit (100 or less) and it shreds and swirls the wood. For finishing, I'll be using my oscillating pencil sander with 320 paper. The scrapers are great but that deck area is in such a tight spot (between the raised center on oneside and under the tumblehome... well.. my fat fingers argue the point.
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Christian, The gratings are on the center which is raised above the deck. When I sanded that, I used a pencil oscillating sanding with 240 grit paper followed by 320 grit. Michael, Admittedly, the planking was not as smooth as I'd have liked. The deck sander is being used with 220 grit to get it down level and smooth. I'll finish with my pencil osillating sander with 320 paper. I started with the scraper but everything is pretty tight in there due to the tumblehome. Popeye, No swirl marks that I can see, but see my response to Michael on how I'll finish. A very light touch is mandatory.
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Dooohhh.. JP, you are so right. I pass by Lowe's on the way home from work.. they're two blocks from where I work. Those rubber feet people put on furniture might work better also.
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Valid points. Low speed and light hand keeping the sanding head flat or nearly flat to the deck.
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Copper, bronze and brass. How to treat them.
mtaylor replied to Modeler12's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Jay, Try annealing the bronze by heating to red hot and letting it cool. Works a treat to make brass workable. -
Warm, happy birthdays wishes to you, Anja. May there be many more cakes with many more candles ahead. And many more presents..
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Hi Robbyn, Here's a trick to get the top row of deadeyes all rotated and facing straight, more or less. Before running the lanyard, start at the top of the shroud and applying light pressure, pinch the shroud and pull your hand down the shroud to the deadeye. It should spin a bit during pulling. Then hold the deadeye in that postion and reeve the lanyard.
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Juergen, If it's already painted, yep, too late to stain unless you want to remove the paint. Maybe next time, my friend. I've used ebony woodstain on several projects and have been very happy with it. Beats having ebony dust on everything.
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Sanding decks is tedious and tiring and with my fat fingers, problematical. So.. a tool, preferably power was called for. After remembering that a floor buffer could be used to sand a wooden floor, I reached for the Dremel. I'm using the mandrel for the cut-off disks and one of the felt buffing pads. A chunk of sandpaper is rubber cemented to the pad. I'm looking around for a rubber disk, the right size to perfect it a tad more. I turn the Dremel on low and hold it as perpendicular to the deck as I can get and apply next to zero pressure. It does a nice job, fast.
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