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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Gripos-kaiki by Giorgos - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to Giorgos's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Giorgos, And here we all thought you were just a speed builder.. :P That is some seriously good work you've done her and thanks for taking the time to put it on MSW. -
By my count there already are more than 6... From his sig: Trawler Syborn - scratch build Billings AmericA 1:72 U.S.S. United States 1:96 - Revell plastic / wood bash Billings Gothenborg 1:100 This doesn't include the lobster twins or the Half-moon. So.. 7 total not counting any aircraft. Must be one huge building table. Maybe the encouragement from Robbyn will kick the number to a nice even dozen?
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Robbyn, The rigging plan should give you some idea of "how high". On some ships, the top shrounds lower deadeyes were secured to the lower shrouds and then ratlines run in those. (I hope that makes sense). In which case, the ratlines didn't have to go more than one line above the securing point.
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Toni, Lovely work. Took me a bit to find that gap.... Very precise work.
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Daniel, I can truly say that I'm speechless. For some reason, your work removes the power of speech. Wow!
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Robbyn, Three builds? I guess I didn't I get the memo that we're all supposed to be doing as many builds as Popeye?
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HMS SERAPIS by PMG - Aeropiccola
mtaylor replied to PMG's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Pierre, What a great bash... real guns on the lower deck and not dummies. I love that. As for the channels... my only advice is "be very careful". I'll hold my breath with you while you fix them. -
Andy, Have fun. I guess some folks will do anything to put off the ratlines and this is good practice for avoiding them.
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John, What the others have said about inspiration. I just find it amazing the details that your putting in a 1:96... and then there's issues with strengthening. And you do it all in public. I don't think I'd have that kind of courage to let every man, woman, child and dog passing by to watch.
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Thanks for well wishes and comments but it really is only a flesh wound. Could have been more serious, but I got lucky this time. Hopefully there won't be a "next" time. Paul, This particular part is pear. Not swiss pear, but just plain pear. Paul and Grant, The bit is a Dremel router bit with a 1/8" shank. My mill spins it at about 12,000 rpm. Aldo, Glad you saw the clamps.. I wouldn't want you to think you'd need to be coming the States to stitch me up. I'm pressing on, a bit slower right now but still pressing on.
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Beautiful Rusty. The bloodwood really is a wonderful touch.
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Gripos-kaiki by Giorgos - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to Giorgos's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Amazingly fast and amazingly wonderful. Wow! -
Here's the right and SAFE way to do it. And I'm wondering if this bad and then the correct way should be posted in the tools section as a reminder...??? The jig and workpiece are properly secured to the mill table using clamps. The cutting bit is run down to correct depth and bingo.... no movement, a perfect cut at the perfect width. Sidestory.. I'm debriding the wounds earlier and applying fresh bandages and my Admiral saw the mess and winced. A bit later she sees me working at this and says: "Nothing slows you down, does it?". My response was the usual "It's just a flesh wound". She looks at me and said: "No more Monty Python movies for you". This from the lady who after surgery is back lap swimming....
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Thanks everyone. No permenant damage should result other than some messed up fingerprints. A hand plane has to be ordered as I suspected. Called several tool houses and the LHS. No handplanes of any size. So, I'll toss an order to Lee Valley after some research. Meantime, I'm reworking my jig to use clamps and holddowns to keep my tender bits away from that spinning cutter. The experiment and learning experience continues.....
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Ah... not metal securing the lower deadeyes? Using line? If so, try 'painting' the line with PVA, or matte lacquer. What's happening is the tension causes the line to twist or unravel. It also works for the top deadeyes, thus, the recommendation for 'pre-tensioning' them to get rid of the twist before reeving the lanyard.
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