Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD

[Dan Vadas]

Looking good Slog, I bet you're glad to get the hull skinning out of the way. Now for the fun bits .

 

  Danny

[Captain Slog]

 

On 6/17/2017 at 5:58 PM, Dan Vad said:

I bet you're glad to get the hull skinning out of the way. Now for the fun bits .

 

Hi Danny, never a truer word spoken!  Skinning the hull is definitely my least favourite part of the build.  Doing the ‘fun bits’ such as topside structures, details etc is, for me, the most enjoyable.

 

 

Okay whilst I was at it I decided to do some of the rear bulkheads doors and hatches.  There are 8 little hatches (14c) for the upper bulkhead and because these can be shown in the open position they have inner faces to be folded together.  Since I decided early on to position them closed I removed the white inner part.  I did the usual porthole treatment but with 1.6mm ones.

14b is the doors to the same area and again have white inner surface for the doors to be fixed in the open position.  I decided to do this early on and had already opened the bulkhead as per a previous post.  Door 11c is to the Captains Walk and is a simple single thickness component.

 

 

 

Almost there; the front belts were done next using the same method as the rear ones. Then the 2 belts per side for the midships were placed between the front and rear ones and the 3 drain tubes placed to cover the joins.

 

Photo below shows ‘starved cow’ effect on the port bow just below the anchor shelf.  This is after some remedial repairs so you can imagine how bad it was beforehand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hull Summary: As mentioned previously, probably multiple times, the hull is my least favourite construction activity.  The laser cut forms and skins were all spot on with regards to size, shape and fitment and the multiple issues encountered were down to my lack of experience.  Obviously there are so many things that could have been done better and given the lessons learned I would do a lot of it differently. Despite the many mess ups and fixes I am pretty happy with how it turned out. 

 

There are still literally hundreds of small and tiny details to be added but these, for obvious reasons will be done near the end of the build to protect them from damage.

The next step is to start attaching all the previously made parts and looking forward, I can now attach new elements as they are made.

 

Cheers

Slog

[gjdale]

I see no starved cows here Slog - only well nourished ones! Great job. Looking forward to more progress.

[Dan Vadas]

Don't beat yourself up about the slightly peckish bovines Slog - they'll be forgotten by the time all the deck furniture goes on . She's looking really good, and I'm sure the standard will continue.

 

For future reference, here's a LINK to a build on Paper Modellers in case you haven't seen it before. It's a lot of work, but virtually foolproof to avoid the "cows". You can see the whole build by clicking the Link in the upper-right corner. Their Software is hopelessly out-dated I'm afraid .

 

  Danny

[catopower]

Hi Slog,

 

I haven't been online much until recently, so I haven't been checking in on your build until now. Beautiful work! You and Danny, among others, have me kind of charged up about paper model projects. I'm having a hard time walking away from my HMS Mercury build as I'm having too much fun, even though I've got other priority work to do.

 

Anyway, I'm enjoying following your progress.

 

Clare

 

[Captain Slog]

Thanks to all for the likes

 

On 6/30/2017 at 4:09 PM, gjdale said:

I see no starved cows here Slog - only well nourished ones! Great job. Looking forward to more progress.

Hi Grant, you’re right; looking at the photos she does appear well fed…I would say tubby but curvaceous may be more flattering!

 

On 6/30/2017 at 5:39 PM, Dan Vad said:

Don't beat yourself up about the slightly peckish bovines Slog - they'll be forgotten by the time all the deck furniture goes on . She's looking really good, and I'm sure the standard will continue.

 

For future reference, here's a LINK to a build on Paper Modellers in case you haven't seen it before. 

 

Hi Danny, despite some of the issues and problems I am pretty pleased how it is turning out.  You are right though, there is still a long way to go and these ships are generally quite cluttered so individual areas will get lost in the overall busyness or hidden etc.  I keep reminding myself when something isn’t quite right and get annoyed to step back and look at the whole from normal viewing distance and feel much better about it.

 

Thanks for the link, I am a member of that site but haven’t seen that particular build so will check it out.  I have a couple of other kits winging their way to me, point being I will need all the help I can get as the patterns printed on their underwater hulls will leave no room for error so that should help greatly.

 

22 hours ago, catopower said:

Hi Slog,

 

I haven't been online much until recently, so I haven't been checking in on your build until now. Beautiful work! You and Danny, among others, have me kind of charged up about paper model projects. I'm having a hard time walking away from my HMS Mercury build as I'm having too much fun, even though I've got other priority work to do.

 

Anyway, I'm enjoying following your progress.

 

Clare

 

Hi Clare, thanks for dropping by.  I know what you mean, I had planned on doing a plastic kit next but just ordered a couple of other cards ships LOL

 

 

Okay with the hull finished as previously shown above I can now fit the upper conning deck level; but before I can do that I need to finish off a few things first whilst I still have access.

 

Firstly I forgot about some under deck bracing/supports which are shown below.  These are similar to the previously shown braces where the printed part can be replaced with or supplemented with thin laser cut forms.  Again I am going to go with the laser cut forms only and paint them with black water colour.  The posts (C1) are from 0.5mm brass wire.

 

 

 

The finished braces are not glued yet. Once the deck is right side up and in place, these braces will be virtually invisible.

 

 

 

In a past post I showed the lower mast section tube which turned out to have too large a diameter when edge glued.  To overcome this I sliced the glue joint apart and overlapped the 2 ends until the correct diameter was obtained and then I glued the lap together.  This is acceptable to me in this case as I will turn the joint to the rear and its position makes it impossible to see anyway.

 

Much better fit now.

 

 

 

The deck structure (part 15) was slid into position and permanently fixed followed by the centre stair wells to the interior.  These were made previously and I just needed to enlarge the holes in the deck for them to drop in to position.

 

Also shown is the services trunking and mast fixed in position.

 

 

 

 

 

Now that the above elements are done and fixed to the deck the upper deck can now be permanently fixed in position.  First off was to glue the rear section of the deck and the tops of the services trunking.  The front section was left unglued at this stage.  I used some card to protect the printed surface then a piece of MDF to spread the load followed by some weight and left to dry.

 

 

 

Once that was dry I lifted the front section and carefully applied glue to the underside and then pressed home on to the deck.  I spent literally hours trimming and tweeking before the final glue up and there is a few bits and pieces not perfect but again happy how it is turning out.

 

The con was only placed for the photo and is not fixed yet.  I will probably need to do the front railing first as would be tricky after fixing the con in place now.

 

 

 

Got lots of little bits and pieces to do now such as finishing off the stair wells with handrails, stairs and coaming.  Then probably the perimeter handrail followed by the next load of deck structures. Fun times ahead LOL.

 

That’s it for this swing,

Cheers

Slog

[Captain Slog]

Hi All,

 

Continuing with the assemblies on the con deck level. 

 

Assembly 28 is a pair of stairs which descend from the con deck, through the bridging structure down to deck level.  As can be seen each stair side rail consists of an inner and outer part, stair treads and 0.2mm brass wire handrails.  I have simplified the construction of the stairs slightly to allow them to fit the current stairwell with minimum modification.

 

The width of the stairwells in the deck are only around 3mm whereas the stair treads alone are already 3mm.  Then add the thickness of the side rails which would be 4 paper thicknesses adding another ~ 1mm it becomes obvious they won’t fit in the stairwell.  I decided not to change the width of the stairwell and instead decided to leave off the outer sides of the stair rails and to trim the width of the treads slightly so the finished assembly can fit in the stairwell.  Leaving off the outer sides means I will need to paint the outside of the inner stringers but as none of it will be seen once positioned this will be fine.

 

 

 

The finished stairs ready for installation.  The handrails were generic photo etch handrail rather than making them myself and glued to the side rails using roket card glue before painting the exposed surfaces with black watercolour.  Funnily the watercolour didn’t take to the photo etch as easily as it does to my usual wire I use so had a hell of a time painting them.  I left them overly long so I can fit and trim then to the deck handrail afterwards.

 

I mentioned previously I couldn’t locate part 20 which are the coamings round the stairwells; well I still can’t find them so made them from the unused outer stair rail.  The finished stairs are so so but virtually none of it will be seen so all good.

 

 

 

I was lucky for the handrails round the stairwell in that the stanchion spacing matched the generic hand rail I have. The photo shows the 2 sections of handrail; the plan is to fit one long side first and then I can position the other side with over length rails for the rear and then trim to fit.  I soaked the handrail in hydrochloric acid which took the watercolour paint a lot better than the stair handrails.

  

 

 

Okay the stairs, coaming and handrails now fixed in place.

  

 

 

I mentioned above that the stairs go right down to the deck.  I didn’t know this until I was trial fitting the stairs and realised that I hadn’t made any opening in the bottom of the bridging structure for the stairs to pass through  

 

I had to perform some surgery using a knife and needle to come down through the top of the opening to make a hole in the underside.  Thankfully I was able to open it up and since there is no way to get a look into the underside I managed to dodge that bullet!

 

Photo shows the stairs from the con deck reaching down to the main deck.  They do look a bit narrow since I had to trim the width but again won’t be visible once other bits and pieces are installed.

 

 

 

 

There is still a considerable amount to do on this level before climbing up to the next bridge deck.

 

Cheers

Slog

[Captain Slog]

Hi,

 

Continuing on with the Con deck structures we have the next sections of the mast and the services ducts.  These are the same as the lower level sections with the exception of access hatches on the ducts.

 

 

 

The mast section was again overly long so not sure if it is supposed to wrapped until the diameter is obtained but I cut the excess off and edge glued once I worked out circumference.

 

 

 

The next structure is a cabin of some sort with what appears to be more ducts with access hatches.  The forms only provide top and bottom parts so once I knew the height of the cabin wall I spaced the top and bottoms apart with balsa and card until the correct distance was met.

 

The windows got the usual treatment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Con level also has additional supports and bracing for the deck above and again these can be replaced or supplemented with the laser cut forms.  There are also 0.5mm brass rod supports.

 

 

 

I again decided to only use the thin laser cut forms and discarded the printed paper parts.  This progress shot shows the thin forms being glued to the 0.5mm brass rod.  Roket card glue is perfect for this and gives a secure bond very quickly.  All the support parts are glued to the brass rod.

 It wasn’t too difficult keeping everything square.

 

 

 

Both supports completed and one painted

 

 

 

All the Con deck parts to date; with nothing glued yet as I still need to do the perimeter handrail and want to prepare the bridge house deck above so I can double check alignment before fixing.

 

 

 

 

Cheers

Slog

[Captain Slog]

Hi,

 

A small bit of progress.  Whilst I decide the best way to do the railings on the Con deck (and the rest of them) I decided to continue on with the next level which is the bridge deck.

 

Similar construction to the lower deck with an upper and lower surface and a perimeter strip (not shown). The difference with this one is all the bracing on the underside. Again substituted the small braces for laser cut forms.  There are a lot of elements on this deck including a rear cabin the same as previous and of course the bridge itself which is the angular structure in the plans and the unprinted area it fits.

 

 

 

The elements from the above photo fitted in position.  Same as previously done for the Con deck.

 

 

 

For assembly of the stack of decks I looked at the different options and what would be best/easier etc and decided in this case to add some Con deck items to the underside of the bridge deck.

 

 

 

The bridge deck ready for more structures; especially looking forward to doing the bridge (location 40 in the photo).  After seeing this photo on the computer I thought the front supports were messed up but didn’t notice when taking the photo as they are supposed to be vertical.  Turns out they do bend back slightly but not as much as the photo shows and due to a slight hump in the middle of the deck they will straighten out when fixed to the Con deck below.

 

 

 

Cheers

Slog

[CDW]

Very nice. I really like this model, and it will fit very well in a display alongside the Mikasa. 

[Dan Vadas]

Nice work Slog. I find these type of assemblies are the most fun to build on the whole model. Enjoy.

 

  Danny

[Captain Slog]

Hi Danny, thanks for the comment and I totally agree these are the fun bits and thanks to everyone for the likes.

 

Bit of a boring post this time as it all just more of the same.  Photo below shows another rear cabin and another couple of service ducts with hatches and another mast section similar to the deck below shown previously.  Incidentally they are slightly shorter than the previous ones.

 

 

 

Next is the bridge with only 4 parts, the wall, a door and top and bottom laser cut forms.  These caused a bit of a dilemma.  For the other cabins with only tops and bottoms I could pack them out to the correct height as the insides wouldn’t be seen.  Since I wanted to cut out the windows and replace them with clear ‘glass’ I couldn’t pack them out as the windows go all the way round.

 

This required a bit of head scratching on the best way to tackle this.

 

 

 

The windows were cut out first followed by trimming the element to size.  Following this I scored and marked the bends on the inside of the part and then glued in the ‘glass’ whilst it was all flat.  Once that was done I pre-bent it roughly to shape.

 

 

I decided to glue up one complete form rather than try and do top and bottom together.  I also thought doing the top former was the way to go but, either or, should work.  I held the top former down on a sheet of glass and worked from the front section and alternating from side to side to finish with the long back section.  I did it this way to reduce errors compounding if starting from one end.

 

 

 

Now that the top perimeter was glued to the form and the joining edges glued up I had to get the bottom form in to place.  Firstly I made a hole in the centre so if it got jammed in during trial fitting I could hook it out.

 

To make sure it was a nice fit and didn’t risk damaging the bottom edge or bulging it out,  I carefully sanded the edges and trial fitted it several times until it could be pushed in comfortably.  Once it fitted well I hooked it back out and punched some holes round the perimeter.  This was so I could get a glue bond after it was fitted.  It was too risky (IMHO) to apply glue firstand then try and refit the former.  It worked out well.

 

 

 

Couple of photos of the finished item.  Really happy how it turned considering how apprehensive I was doing it without the packed out forms.

 

 

 

 

On to the last top deck.  Same deal as the others, top and bottom parts to glue together followed by a perimeter strip.

 

 

 

The underside also has some posts with bracing as shown below.  Since I was used to using laser cut forms for bracing I hunted through the parts sheets and the forms looking for them for an age.  Finally found them and are a simple fold together part with no laser cut substitute.  Since they are tiny I cheated a bit and once folded and glued I cut the horizontal and vertical side first and then simply made a straight cut between the 2 points.

 

 

 

Finished top deck with the perimeter strip, posts and braces in place.  The simplified braces can be seen here but once right side up and in place they won’t really be seen.  Just to touch up the perimeter strip, posts and braces with some black watercolour.

 

 

 

Finished bridge and top deck.  The bridge fitted perfectly within the perimeter strip and on the whole pretty happy with it all.  The eagle eyed among you will notice I haven’t cut out the stairwell yet ‘W’  This was an oversight and didn’t notice until I was getting ready for the pictures.  I did the exact same thing with the con deck below it!  Shouldn’t be an issue to cut out later.

 

 

 

 

I am still have the stairs and railings but holding off for the time being due to some issues which I will cover when I do them.  Until them I will continue to make assemblies as per the part number sequence on the plans.

 

Cheers

Slog

[gjdale]

Looking good Slog - your care and effort is really paying off.

[rony]

Good afternoon
Your accuracy is perfect, I believe the finished model has come out amazing.

[Dan Vadas]

13 hours ago, Captain Slog said:

This required a bit of head scratching on the best way to tackle this.

Hmm .... that's odd - I thought this was the way it's ALWAYS done. It's how I've been doing it all along . Nice work Slog.

 

  Danny

[Captain Slog]

Hi, thanks for all the comments and likes. 

 

 

I am now in a position to do the deck handrails.  The quickest and simplest method would be to use generic 3 rail photo-etch but as can be seen in the photo below the spacing of the stanchions are at least half of what is required and miss every post location.  Since I really like the look of the high ‘density’ of stanchions this didn’t appeal to me.

 

 

 

The other option would be to do as the plans suggest and use 0.3mm wire as stanchions and 0.2mm rails and build them up individually.  I started to do it this way and began cutting dozens of posts, when I came across a build where the guy used individual photo-etch stanchions and I decided this would be easier (?) and still look good if not better for the desired effect.

 

I preferred the style of the other guys stanchions where the rails run through the centres of the posts instead on the sides like the ones I got but the effect should still be good.  The stanchions were also a bit high if left to length with the small rectangle section at the base, which I don’t like so cut this off. 

 

 

 

I used the kit suggested 0.2mm wire after checking it fit through the holes and this was formed to shape as per the template.  The wire I have is very stiff and springy so I annealed it first and then starting from the front middle curve began forming it on the provided template.  I would fix a section down with tape and then form to the line below; once the wire stayed in placed without holding it down I then taped that section and progressed round like that

 

 

 

One rail down, another two to go for the first deck.

 

 

Once the 3 rails were shaped I taped them down to my square to keep them raised for access and to separate them roughly too width.  The photo shows the first lot from a total of 72 stanchions being slide onto the rails.

 

I staggered the ends slightly to make it easier to thread one hole at a time whilst sliding them on rather than try and line up 3 together.  I also placed card between each rail to separate them as they had a tendency to tangle up.  It’s like herding cats trying to keep them in some kind of control.

 

 

 

I know it looks like the aftermath of the Battle of Tsushima but it is still very flexible as the rails are free to slide along the holes in the stanchions.  I grouped the stanchions into sections, counting out the required amount and then placing some tape to keep them separate.

 

 

 

Okay the first 2 small sections glued down.  This has to be one of the most frustrating things I have ever done!  These 14 posts took 1 ½ hrs to do and from the photo I think its fair to say pretty obvious this is my first time doing any significant railing. It least this ship gives plenty of practice for railings.

 

Although slow progress I am pleased enough how it is shaping up and once painted should just blend in to the overall appearance.  Speaking of painting, I consciously chose to do it after installation.  Before or after both have pros and cons but for me after should be better.

 

 

 

That’s it for this swing but will be back for 5 days next time round so the goal is to get all the fore decks done and finished off so I can rinse and repeat for the rear decks.

 

Cheers

Slog

[CDW]

That's a well thought out and beautifully executed railing. Threading those stanchions is a real eye test for me. Even with an optivisor, it's hard to get correct angle for focus sometimes.

I remember how I used to laugh when my mother would hand me a needle to thread for her, or when my dad might assign me a task that required eagle vision. But now that I'm older, not laughing any more. 

[Dan Vadas]

11 hours ago, Captain Slog said:

These 14 posts took 1 ½ hrs to do

Only another 1,744 to go Slog . Seriously good looking though, much better than the generic PE railings. I'm a bit lucky with Amatsukaze in that the stanchions, while not fitting exactly to the marked positions, are pretty close. Marking them for drilling is a pain though .

 

Pity they didn't have the tab on the stanchions on the BOTTOM instead of the top - it would have made cutting them out of the tree a lot easier .

 

I'd say the other guy's stanchions may have come from HERE. They have centred rails.

 

BTW - have you seen these 3D Photo Etch Railings? Probably still have the problem with alignment though.

 

  Danny

[Captain Slog]

Thanks to everyone for the likes, these are greatly appreciated.

 

Hi Craig, thanks for the comment.  I know what you mean about eyesight; my close up vision has deteriorated rapidly the past few years.  I often wonder if the rate is normal for getting old or if it’s accelerated due to our chosen hobby!

 

Hi Danny thanks for the comment and links. I would have jumped at the chance to use generic rail if they had double the amount of stanchions or the ship required less.  I reckon the original designer of the prototype had shares in a ship rail company LOL Saying that I do like the effect of lots of stanchions.  I have come across Tom’s Modelworks stuff in the past but I always found their stuff to be more expensive than comparable offerings by others.  The 3d railings look good but that price!

 

 

Okay the Con deck railings attached to the deck.  I started painting before remembering to take a photo.

 

 

Finished finally; the below railing is the result of a total of 21hrs work! I don’t know if its just me but these are taking an age to do. 

 

 

 

Thoughts? Well they turned out not to bad for my first attempt at doing railings but as usual lots of room for improvement.  Two stand out items; firstly the join for the railing ends on the rear run is pretty rubbish but due to its position can live with it.

 

Secondly and most annoying is the front curved section, which was pretty much spot on when originally done and was very happy with it but…doing the last run on the port side straight section required a fair bit of pushing and pulling to get in to shape.  Only after final gluing did I notice the port side of the curve section leans inwards a bit…enough to keep drawing my eye to it. Oh well.

 

Next up to glue in the previous made components to the Con deck so the bridge deck can be installed and railed up.

 

Cheers

Slog   

[CDW]

Capt Slog

You are being far too hard on yourself with respect to the railing. It looks super nice to the modeler who observes your work (me). But I do understand the tendency to strain at the smallest faults as I often do it to myself as well. It must be a modeler's disease.

My older brothers would often ask me if I needed glasses yet while I went into my 40's. It became annoying. Then one day it seemed to happen with a bang, my close-up vision went tango uniform. Distance vision is still perfect, just close-up needs correction. 

[Dan Vadas]

11 hours ago, Captain Slog said:

the join for the railing ends on the rear run is pretty rubbish

What join for the railing ends? I can't see it - must be my old modeller's eyes . Well done, now don't lean your thumb on it when you go to attach something else later on (don't ask how I know ).

 

  Danny

[catopower]

Hey Slog,

 

Your railing looks absolutely beautiful to me. I can't imagine that mine will look nearly as good when I get to it on my V108. Really lovely work!

 

Clare

[Captain Slog]

Thanks Craig for the nice comment.  I always feel I could do better although on the whole I am pleased how they turned out but as usual the discrepancy has effects down the track which I will cover below.

 

Thanks for the comment Danny, let’s just say selective camera POV hides many of my mistakes   I know what you mean about being careful around finished work!  In the case of the railings I caught myself a couple of times resting my hand on the ship to support my other hand with the tweezers!

 

Hi Clare thanks for the comment, based on your work on other builds I am sure you will have no problems.

 

 

Before I can continue with installing the bridge deck I need to finish a couple of bits and pieces I skipped over.  One thing I missed was the stairs from the Con Deck to the bridge deck.  It is official, I am the slowest builder out there taking 2 ½ hrs to make one tiny set of stairs!  The handrails were as per the template but they squeeze together passing through the stairwell.

 

Also required were 4 more 0.5mm deck supports.  I painted the ends before gluing to the deck and will finish painting before flipping over to glue down.

 

 

The Con deck curved railing which I was crying about being tilted inwards a bit now affects the front two supports  and because of how well braced they are is preventing the whole bridge deck sliding fully forward into position.

 

The quickest and simplest option would be to bend them back but visually would look average.  So I sliced the card bracing and moved the post back and then used some scrap from the same card to fill in the gap. 

 

A bit messy but not really on view and the posts are more vertical.

 

 

 

Time to fit the bridge deck and trialling fitting caused massive confusion!  The Conning tower has white lines crossing the top which correspond to the bracing positions on the underside of the bridge deck so would mean these sit directly on top of the Con?  This to me makes sense since the Bridge is directly above and if not supported below means only the front 2 posts hold the whole front end up!?! But as can be seen there is at least a 1mm space between the Con and the bridge deck bracing.

 

 

So the deck needs to be level and the rear cabin, mast section and duct work are fixed heights and even if I cut them out leaving the lines on this would account for only a fraction of a millimetre too high.  A double check of all the 0.5mm brass rod supports (c5 on the templates) matches the structures and the template so everything is the same height!

 

The only other option I can think of is that the gap is correct…regardless I glued the bridge deck down; a level deck is more important than an unnoticeable (unless pointed out) gap on the underside

 

 

 

Hmmmm never noticed the front support of the Con is askew before.

 

 

Also after the photos were taken I noticed that the rear port ‘wing’ was being pushed up a little so removed the c5 brass post and filed it down so the corner sat down better.

 

Also from the photos it would seem that it doesn’t matter how often you check and touch up the railings there are always missed bits of brass showing!

 

I really thought I would get all 3 decks and associated railings installed on this extended swing but totally underestimated how long each railing would take and the finessing to fit the deck.

 

Really like how the front structures are shaping up and looking forward to continuing upwards on my next swing back.

 

Cheers

Slog

Edited September 25, 2017 by Captain Slog

[Captain Slog]

Finally the fore superstructure is more or less complete.

 

The completed handrails ready for installation are shown below. 

 

 

Almost there, I had another set of stairs to make and a couple of storage boxes (?)

 

 

 

Bridge deck handrail glued into place ready for painting before moving on up with the assembly.

 

 

 

Finally the fore decks all assembled and complete.  There are still a number of items to be installed such as the 47mm guns (white circles) and the 2 winches on the top deck for the boat booms but these can be done later.  There are also a few small details such as navigation lights, search lights etc to do but these are further down the part number sequence.

 

 

 

Before I repeat the process for the 2 rear decks I thought I would finish off all the amidships elements next for a break from doing decks as well as for accessibility since the lower rear deck extends forward a bit covering some of the components.

  

Cheers

Slog

[Dan Vadas]

Looking good Slog. The pic from the side gives a great idea of the unusual shape of the hull .

 

I'd get as many of the smaller details onto the decks as you can, as long as they can't get damaged. It might be easier to do now rather than later when more of the superstructure might limit access to them.

 

  Danny

[src]

That is some fine craftsmanship Mr Slog!!

Dont ask me why but the picture of the rails brings to mind little starship shaped Pac Men ready to do battle. Sorry, its early and I needs more coffee!

Sam

[Captain Slog]

Hi All, thanks for all the likes and comments.

Starting on the amidships assemblies with a couple of winches.

 

 

The winches have some kind of frame or brake band made from 0.2mm brass wire. 

 

 

Finished ready for installation.  Some discrepancies in the indicted parts positions meant pulling some of the assembly apart to correct.

 

 

Installed in their location on the deck.

 

Cheers

Slog

[CDW]

Are those tiny wire pieces soldered.

And where on earth did you get those enormous Tic Tacs? 

[Bill Morrison]

Wow! This is a beautiful model, and you are doing a great job!  I am newly into paper kits and have been stymied with the barbettes on the JSC SMS Goeben.  Therefore, I am very impressed with your effort!  Where did you buy the kit?

 

Bill

[Captain Slog]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

Are those tiny wire pieces soldered.

And where on earth did you get those enormous Tic Tacs? 

Hi Craig, yeah used 'easy' silver solder paste and the torch.  Slowly getting there with the technique but takes a few goes before I settle in to it.

1 hour ago, Bill Morrison said:

Wow! This is a beautiful model, and you are doing a great job!  I am newly into paper kits and have been stymied with the barbettes on the JSC SMS Goeben.  Therefore, I am very impressed with your effort!  Where did you buy the kit?

 

Bill

Hi Bill thanks for the kind words.  If you haven't already perhaps start a build log as someone may be able to provide assistance with any issues.  I bought the kit from GPM in Poland.  The link to their site should be in the 1st post of the log.

 

Cheers

Slog