Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model

[WackoWolf]

I agree with druxey about doing the work on the piece off the ship. Very good call indeed, but that is my option which doesn't always mean that's it's right.

[michael mott]

 

Any ideas about the black metal frame structure on the fore deck?

john I think that you are correct regarding them being a crutch for the booms, There is a similar framework at the stern.

 

 

The piece you've removed should be much easier to restore on the bench than in situ.

Druxey, yes you are right, what I find interesting is the combination of the nickle silver (German silver) and yellow brass, I am guessing they used whatever was at hand in the stores, since it was all painted white. The rear section is all soft soldered together, I think it will take less time to fabricate a new piece than to fight with straightening the twisted remains. It will serve as a useful guide though.

 

Michael

 

[michael mott]

Thanks Joe, we must have been cross posting.

 

And again thanks to all who are pressing the like button

 

Michael

[captainbob]

Keep going the way you are.  Think it all through before you start. It would be a shame to find out you did things it the wrong order and have to take it apart again.

 

Off subject,  I have not seen round nose pliers with such sharp ends.  What brand are they? 

 

Bob

[michael mott]

 

I have not seen round nose pliers with such sharp ends.  What brand are they?

Hi Bob they are Lindstrom as are the flush cutters. the round nose are number 7590 and the flush cut are number 7291 The PDF product catalogue has some great technical data in it

 

I did not pay quite as much but they are the best pliers on the market as far as I can tell, the difference is like night and day I have a couple of lesser quality round nose and they cannot hold alignment as well and flex too much for some tasks.

 

One of the things that I make a point of doing is to use any remuneration on projects to improve the quality of my tools. These pliers are a joy to use.

 

Michael

[captainbob]

Thanks Michael, I'll have to get some.

 

Bob

[popeye the sailor]

it looks like your coming up with some good ideas Michael.  I like some of the test work you've done with the stays and guys so far...the whippings  are going to look so much better........the original ones are dreadful.

 

I had a nice pair of the small flush cutters.......Mac tools.    I broke them trying to cut that steel wire I bought a while ago.

Edited October 25, 2016 by popeye the sailor

[dvm27]

I have and use those round nose pliers quite often. You can make incredibly small loops and hooks with it. We had a great local jewelry supply store where I spent many dollars on similar tools over the years. Unfortunately, the elderly owner recently died so all similar purchases must be made over the internet. But the experience is nothing like browsing amongst the thousands of interesting items he carried in his store.

[albert]

Great restoretion work Michael.

[michael mott]

Bob there are some good prices out there.

 

 

I had a nice pair of the small flush cutters.......Mac tools.    I broke them trying to cut that steel wire I bought a while ago.

Denis I have also ruined a good pair of flush cut pliers doing exactly the same thing. regarding the stays I am looking forward to getting the right gauge of brass wire then I will be able to replicate the correct strand count.

 

Greg I agree with you regarding browsing in the store, I spent a good hour discussing the round nose and the flush cut pliers with the owner. Fortunately his son is taking up the cause and is as pleasant and knowledgeable as his father. They both practice the epitome of good customer service. they have been serving the community for 30 years and it look by all accounts that they will continue. I have to visit their store most times I head into the city for supplies. I was able to try the different pliers with different wires in the store before deciding which ones serve my needs best.

 

Albert thanks for your kind comment.

 

Again thanks for all the likes and for those who looked in.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Made a start on the easy stuff first. The most damaged lifeboat is the one at the stern end of the boat deck.

 

 

the damaged area was planed flat in preparation for some new wood I determined that it is sugar pine.

 

 

glued to the new block

 

 

 

trimmed off the main block

 

 

Used a pairing chisel to shape the new wood

 

 

I used one of the other boats to get the shape right

 

 

Next was the open boat that sits on top of the collapsed one, I used the #11 blade to create a smooth shape for the new wood.

 

 

then used the #11 to do the rough shaping

 

 

That's it for now I'm off to make supper.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[KeithAug]

Hello Michael

 

It looks like a wonderful diversion to while away the cold dark Alberta winter months. Best wishes for a successful build.

[popeye the sailor]

now that's high class........he's fix'in 'em on a pool table      that-a-way Michael!   the fix is on!!!!  

[dvm27]

I wish I had your skill and speed, Michael. You should be done the entire project in what...two weeks?

[druxey]

Great start, Michael.

[jbshan]

I like the recess in the table top to hold the workpiece while chiseling.  Clever.

[Jim Lad]

An actual start on restoring rather than taking apart!  At least the collapsable boats are a straitforward way of getting onto it, Michael.

 

John

[michael mott]

Denis it's just a bit of green felt I'm afraid.

 

Greg two weeks!  I cannot make any gravy in only two weeks....but thanks for the compliment.

 

Druxey, it feels good to be actually repairing and not just removing broken parts.

 

Joel I was using the end bench vise to clamp the V table for cutting out the curved piece for the open boat and wondering how to set up a stop, and it just came at the moment so I dropped the table about an 1/8th inch lower to create the well.

 

John, yes I wanted to start doing some positive work as much for the inspiration as anything else, it cheered me up for sure to see some progress. I glued in the opposite piece this evening and will finish it off in the morning.

 

 

Michael

[amateur]

They paintjob may be your largest chalenge.

Those old type of paints do no longer exist, I'm pretty sure that the colours went a bit 'off' over the last decades, so you have to match colour, 'structure' as well as 'age' in the paintjob. (and prepping the surface of the new wood, without damaging the old paintwork micht be tricky as well. But just a plain repaint of the whole ship is a severe sin from a restorers point of view.

 

I'll follow with interest.

 

Jan

[druxey]

Jan is right: it's not only the original paint color, but patina and surface oxidation/atmospheric dirt deposit effect on that paint! Also, be beware of old paint: it may contain lead compounds. Please take precautions.

[popeye the sailor]

I know Michael.........just wanted to make you laugh  

 

you gotta have a good attitude.....I can imagine the feeling,  as you were tearing 'er down.  you chose a good place to start the process.   are you 'washing' the parts as you work on them?   wiping them down with a damp cloth,  will enable you to get an idea of the exact color.  it's quite possible that you'll need to mix paint to achieve some of the hues.   filler and sand on the repairs?

[michael mott]

 

Those old type of paints do no longer exist, I'm pretty sure that the colours went a bit 'off' over the last decades, so you have to match colour, 'structure' as well as 'age' in the paintjob.

Ah yes Jan...that is why I still have this 40 year old Humbrol enamel, one of the best model paints that was ever on the market for hand painting in my humble opinion.

 

 

 

Seriously though I hear what you are saying and my intention is to do as little painting as is possible. blending in a 1/16th line of paint will be a lot less hassle than a large repaint. The collapsible lifeboat that was the most damaged is about as far as I hope to have to go regarding replacing broken wooden parts. There are a few bits missing and I will tackle them as I get to them.

 

 

I am going to use the enamel paint to fill the joint lines where possible this will take time to let the paint harden but will give me a lot of control over these small areas. In all likelihood Bassett Lowke used a very fine grind of enamel although they might also have used Lacquer, which is what we did at Allmodels when I was a young man in the early 60's we matched all our paints from the British Standard Colour charts I cannot remember the actual name of the Standards now  but we only used the primaries and black and white to make any colour we needed.

 

You are right in that this will be one of the most challenging areas but I do have a little background from the old school so I will be proceeding with a great deal of caution.

 

 

Jan is right: it's not only the original paint color, but patina and surface oxidation/atmospheric dirt deposit effect on that paint!

  Druxey, yes adding a little grime will no doubt be in order.

 

 

are you 'washing' the parts as you work on them?   wiping them down with a damp cloth,  will enable you to get an idea of the exact color.

Denis, my plan is to do as little to disturb the original surfaces as possible, the colour oxidation is already apparent regarding the areas of the deck that were hidden from exposure when I removed the structures from the funnel deck. The white will be the least problematic in my view. the most difficult I think will be the side of the hull, I will mix some colour let them dry after some initial test sample to get close, and then use the damaged area to test them with very small spots of the Humbrol to see how well they will blend.

 

The next picture shows the aft funnel structure and the area highlighted is where one of the tiny broken bits somehow avoided being swept up it is glued back on with carpenters glue. The vertical rectangular section was snapped completely in half and a section at the bottom was broken off as well.

 

The section highlighted on the collapsible lifeboat is one of the supports for the top boats and is the only pattern left, all the rest are missing from the port side boat deck, I managed to pull a small piece of similar Maple from my scrap maple drawer, so they will be easy enough to replace.

 

 

time for some breakfast and a coffee.

 

Michael 

 

 

[Mirabell61]

Hi Michael,

 

I`m following your restoration with great interest, for its not only showing your progress in work, but here and there also a little glimpse at how the builders made it. I wish you that you keep up with the drive and pace and turn the "Albertic" to new blossom for display again.

I also have many over 10 years old  Humbrol paints, but most of them have dried out although the cans were closed.....

 

Nils

[hexnut]

Wow.  Very impressive project.  Hopefully you have someplace nice and warm to paint the enamels...     For the black lines, will you use enamel in a ruling pen, tech pens or Micron pens?

[michael mott]

 

I also have many over 10 years old  Humbrol paints, but most of them have dried out although the cans were closed.....

Hi Nils I consider you as one of the masters of this type of ship model, so any advice that you have to offer will most certainly be welcome. The tins I have seem to be OK after a while of remixing the pigment from its long rest on the bottom of the tins I use a piece of stainless steel that I salvaged from a wiper blade as the tool to remix

 

 

The straight end works to dig into the pigment to break it up and the folded end works like a sort of potato masher once the pigment is mobile. 

 

 

For the black lines, will you use enamel in a ruling pen, tech pens or Micron pens?

Bob Not sure on this one yet, I might have to do a spot of practicing with my ruling pens and compasses, its been a while.

I have some very fine lining brushes so might go with that option.

I am reminded of a video I watched some time ago where someone was doing a decorative glaze on some china and they had obviously been doing the same motion for a long time and made it look like child's play.

 

The other thought might be to use the type of pens that are used for doing the Pysanka

but to use enamel instead of wax. and I would not need the heat either. This might be an interesting tool to sort out for painting.

 

Has anyone used something like this for paint?

 

Michael

[hexnut]

I've only used the "flame heat" kistky, not the electric ones, and I've only used them with wax, but I found them to be trickier and less predictable than a ruling pen (and that's saying something...) 

If the existing linework is an ink formulation as opposed to enamel, the Micron archival ink pens may be a really easy solution...I've had great luck with these on various surfaces.  http://www.pigmamicron.com/

[Mirabell61]

Hi Michael,

 

perhaps, if of use for you, here two suggestions.....

 

cable cord:

I use very flexible control wire for flying wire control model aircraft in two different diam.

one line is 0,3 mm OD and consisting of 7 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered and secured with mini metal beads

The other line is 0,5 mm OD and consisting of 19 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered and secured with mini metal beads

 

Lifeboats:

here is a sample in scale 1:100 appr. 86 mm long,  for an open lifeboat with rimm and seats, its plastic, but when painted has a good appeal.... (they come 5 a pack for a very reasonable price)

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[cog]

Can't go wrong with old Humbrol stock ;)Got some stashed in a carton box somewhwere ... one never knows when they come in handy

[michael mott]

 

one line is 0,3 mm OD and consisting of 7 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered and secured with mini metal beads

The other line is 0,5 mm OD and consisting of 19 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered

Nils I have some brass coloured control line wire in both .018" and .032" the original B&L wore is .028"

 

The hidden damage is now becoming more apparent.

 

I am also of the opinion now that this ship has been knocked pretty hard on some earlier occasion.the following pic shows two concerns I have

 

 

within the highlighted area the cargo winch deck is sprung that is the same on both port and starboard. you can see that the underside of the deck is unfinished and not very clean.

 

The area below and just above the brass hatch is bulged a little and this is an old repair it is only on the starboard side.

 

My concern is that the cargo deck is flexible enough that I should be able to pull it back down into alignment by using the vent stacks as a clamp by fixing the base ring that sits on the deck so that as the vent is reseated into the main block of the hull deck the black rings which are loose would pull down the deck.

 

 

Both the foremast shrouds and the stern-mast shrouds are loose and I am reluctant to tighten them to make them look clean because they will put an additional strain on the already compromised decks.

here you can see that the lifeboat deck at the bow is bent upwards in the same way as the deck at the stern, no doubt that pressure on the shrouds during the fall contributed to this.

 

 

This brings me back to the funnels

 

I think that having the shrouds and stays more rigid and made to exact lengths and replacing all of them might end up giving the best solution. The following picture shows a new stay using the .032" brass control line wire it is brass plated steel. with some of the Bassett Lowke wire used as a serving to emulate the same look but neater.

 

 

 

 I could do this with all the standing rigging, it even has the wrong lay up as the B&L

 

help I'm falling down the rabbit hole........

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

[druxey]

Don't panic! Take a deep breath and take things step by step.... You'll be fine. There are always hidden wrinkles to these projects.

 

BTW, you can get Humbrol paints online in Canada: www.sunwardhobbies.ca

 

I've had great service from them.