HM Cutter Alert by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[davyboy]

Good evening Maurice,

 

That clinker planking is shaping up nicely,I'm certain the end result will be tip-top as normal.

 

Had a problem with the aft bulkhead on Speedwell. The transom area has no instructions as to how

one addresses the fashion pieces below the planked area. Just a note to round this area forward 4" (.084")

Plenty of info for the POF version but not much use for the POB one. After some thought I made my

fashion pieces from 3/16th pear and marked their placeon the bulkhead. Then I very carefully freehand

milled out a 3/16th deep area to fit them. Worked fine and when the transom is planked and after fairing

it will look very like the Cheerful transom. I hope  

 

Regards.

 

Dave   

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks  Dave, 

Glad you have had success  with Speedwell’s fashion pieces, I modified those on Alert based on the Cheerful experience.

 

Maurice

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 17

 More clinkering

For the next few planks up from the Garboard it looks like I will need to spile each one individually.

1912

I have used tick strips to mark down the hull at the bulkheads and used those to gauge the taper required towards the bow.

The tick strip spacing is of the net 4mm width of the lapped plank.

1910

I can then measure down from the lap edge to where the taper marks will come, and shape what is the upper edge of the plank.

Once satisfied with the shape and fit the 2mm lap line can then be drawn in for the following plank.

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The tapering at the bow begins at the third plank from the Garboard, but before fitting it is used as a template for the corresponding plank on the opposite side.

1917

The clinker at the stern.

Where the strakes approach the stern post the clinker will eventually be pared down.

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I will be adding a thin veneer Boxwood to the stern post which will act as a rabbet for the strake ends.

1918

In the midships area the clinker will remain more pronounced before being fayed down towards the bow.

1916(2)

This is a much more involved business than straightforward carvel planking; four strakes fitted but I still don’t really know how it will turn out.

Still it is an interesting exercise to have a go at.

 

B.E.

24/08/2019

 

[Mirabell61]

Looking good so far B.E.

 

What will you be using for the horizontal inter connecting of the lapped planks ? (for optical matter only)

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Nils,

If you're referring to the  copper fastenings, I'm not really sure at this stage. At 1:64 scale they will be pretty small, particularly to represent the roves. I was thinking that maybe  fine copper wire with a flattened end may suffice.

Watch this space!

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Hi B.E.

 

I`ll be in for the same tricky task with my Zeesboot a little later on. I think I`ll give up the simulated rivet connection with 0,6 mm flat headed pinswhere I wanted to slip on miniatur discs from the inside to simulate the clenching discs.

Looking at lapstrake joints in actual the copper nails pins are not even flush th the planks but sunk in so far that towards the outside the holes are plaged off with small round wooden dowels and sanded flush. Although I``m working in scale 1:24, that would be impossible for me to do in that way, although the planks are 2 mm thick.

 

I went Web-looking for mini brass or copper flat head pins...., best suitable are mini nails I found at Krick (Article 473842). The great benefit is that the nails have only 0,6 mm diam. and a flat head with only 1 mm diam. !!. I think I will be using these... and set them flush with the outside. An alterative could be doing only dilling the holes and fitting in toothpick points ( like treenails)

 

Another task is to get the borings all to align properly in row. and distance, if this ca`nt be done utmost tidy it will "look at you" for ever after....

Am curious how you shall master this, and wish you luck and good success

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Nils, I’m curious about how I’ll master it too😀I note that on the NMM model of the Hawke 1777 flat nail heads are visible along the lap lines.

@ Steve,  the first strakes above the Garboard have to follow a tight curve around to the stem. Hopefully it will look better when a few more strakes are added, and I’ve smoothed out the clinker towards the bow.

 

B.E.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 18

Clinkering on.

 Time for an update, and review of progress.

2033

A fairly slow process this clinkering business, I am doing two strakes per day.

2035

Thus far each plank has been individually spiled, cut from boxwood sheet. I think this will be the case for all of them.

2038

Each plank end at the bow is thinned slightly and an individual rabbet cut in the stem to hold it.

Very fine pins are used with the glue to hold the planks in place.

I use Amati (Very fine brass pins (A4136/10)) These have a flat head just shy of 1mm ø with a 0.5mm shaft, perfect for the job.

2046

These are then removed. The pin holes aren’t a problem as the lower hull will be painted but will be re-drilled for representations of the bolts to be fitted.

Before fitting, each plank is trimmed to the tick marks and is used as a template for the opposite side.

2045

At this stage I have completed 11 strakes and have started to fine down the lap of the strakes as they approach the stem and stern post.

All still very much wip at this point but I’m now feeling more confident that it’s starting to look like a clinkered hull.

 

B.E.

02/09/2019.

 

[Mirabell61]

Good work B.E.

I knew youre going to master it , great looking !

In the meantime ( my Zeesboot)  I drilled 0,6 mm holes for the horizontal plank connections, widened them to 1 mm, and glued (carefully knocked in) the points of bamboo toothpicks into the holes with low viscos CA wetting. After trimming and flush sanding it now looks as if all thes connectors have been plugged off with wooden plugs

 

Nils

[mtbediz]

Great work B.E.

May i ask how you remove the pins after gule dries. Are you nailing half the nails or you have a special tool for it?

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Nils and Mustafa.

@Nils -  still working out a strategy for the copper bolts and roves, but first I will need to clean up the  planking strakes.🙂

 

@ Mustafa - The pins are very fine and easy to remove. I use a fine blade beneath the heads to ease the pins out a little and then remove with mini pliers.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 19

The end of a long and spiling road

After what seems to have been an interminable time at last all the lap strakes are in place.

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The square tuck planking has also been completed.

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With the last strakes in place the final shaping of the wale can take place.

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The wale at the bow is also fined down a little in thickness.

This is not the end of the process, the planks have  to be cleaned up and faired at the bows and stern, and approximately 2500 copper bolts have to be inserted to ‘secure’ the laps.

I gave some thought about representing the roves as shown on the Alert book drawings but they would be incredibly small at 1:64 scale, and in any case the photo’s of the contemporary model of Hawke don’t appear to show such a feature, simply the bolts.

The bolts will be represented by copper wire ca’d into pre-drilled holes cut close and tapped with a hammer to flatten the heads slightly.

I now await a supply of copper wire to complete the task, but there is plenty of cleaning up work to do to keep me busy.

B.E.

21/09/2019

 

 

 

Edited September 21, 2019 by Blue Ensign

[davyboy]

Good evening Maurice,you've made a really nice job on the clinker planking. Once faired and cleaned up with the copper

bolts done she will look "the bees knees".

 

Dave 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Dirk and Dave.

The copper wire has arrived and I'm good to go.🙂

2406

Following a trial I am going with 500gm 0.56mm diameter copper wire.

So the tiresome business begins, there are some 50 bolt holes per strake and 17 strakes per side.

I just hope I come out the other side with some degree of sanity  remaining.🙄

 

B.E.

23/09/2019

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 20

Finishing the hull

This involves scraping the boards to clean and fair them into the bow and sternpost, and then drilling the estimated 2500 holes for the securing bolts.

I have taken the measurements for spacing from the Alert book, which work out to a 7mm spacing at scale.

I am using 24swg 0.56mm ø copper wires to represent the bolts.

2814

A week of fairly concerted effort sees the hull bolted.

 

With this done the tricky waterline question remains. Not one of my favourite jobs and the clinker is an added problem.

How do I get an effective waterline marked?

 

In marking the waterline, it seems best to me, having set the level at the bow low point, to start at the centre high point of the line and work fore and aft. That way the line runs with the lap and the pencil is not thrown off by the ridges.

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Once the line is marked, Tamiya tape for curves is run along the lines to check by eye that both sides look even.

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I’ve never found that this Tamiya tape works particularly well, doesn’t seem to have as much grab as the yellow version.

2824

Altho’ I’m satisfied with the line of the waterline, inevitably I’m not going to get a sealed line to paint along, and my main concern is that the waterline line looks good with the clinker effect at model scale.

The top line will have to be painted free hand using the tape as a guide. The rub is that once committed it would prove difficult to go back to an unmarked hull.

 

I would hate it to look like a wobbly line, but doing it is the only way to see one way or the other, so time to bite the bullet.

 

I have used a basic white Humbrol  acrylic paint to lay down a base coat and assess the effect, but I intend to use a less stark  paint for the finish, perhaps Admiralty paints Light Ivory or Coral white.

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I am relieved that the top line is far better than I had envisaged just a tiny amount of fussing and tweaking will be required.

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2844(2)

2849(2)

I will now try to get the lower hull finish looking as good as I can before the upper hull is sealed with poly.

 

B.E.

08/10/2019

 

 

[Mirabell61]

excellent job B.E. !

 

Nils

[davyboy]

Good evening Maurice,a very nice job on the "white stuff". Looking very good,I'm pretty sure the original waterline looked the same.

 

Dave 

[Blue Ensign]

 

 

 

 

  

 

Thank you Nils and Dave,  and to those who have looked in on the build.

 

Post 21

Finishing the hull – part 2

With a few coats of white paint applied to the lower hull and being more or less satisfied with the top line, I could at last  get some poly on the topsides above the waterline.

I quite like the combination of varnish and white paint on a model.

2951

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2942

The inevitable stepped waterline is clearly apparent in this shot.

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So after four months, and at this point I can review the changes made to the build thus far.

 

   The most obvious is of course the clinker planking using thin Boxwood planks cut from sheet material. Clinkering is not an easy option, can’t be done with kit supplied timber, is time consuming, as each plank is individually spiled, and then there’s the application of copper ‘bolts’.

   My approach has been fairly simplistic but at this scale I think it works even tho’ I would have wished for better execution of the work in places.

Above the wale I used Boxwood planking rather than the supplied Pear wood.  

 

Scratch made Side counter timbers and extensions to the boom crutches.

     I really didn’t like the two piece add ons in the kit arrangement which to my eye looked unconvincing.

 

1  I have also tweaked the internal counter to better reflect the counter timber arrangement.

 

Enhancements to the hatch openings by the addition of carlings.

 

Creating a lower deck view thro’ the openings.

 

Pre-formed Capping rails replaced with Boxwood strip with thinned down width.

 

Sheer and Counter rails replaced with Boxwood strip scribed with a pattern.

 

I am now starting to feel a little happier about the build, altho’ I still wish I had replaced the stem piece with Boxwood.

 

Moving on to the Rudder.

 

 

 

B.E.

11/10/2019

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 11, 2019 by Blue Ensign

[Mirabell61]

Probably a sigh of relief from your side,     

for the masterly done clinker planking, unique for this cutter vessel, congrats at this stage already B.E. well done

 

Nils

Edited October 11, 2019 by Mirabell61

[Rustyj]

Great work BE. Long time to complete but very worthwhile. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Dirk, Nils, and Rusty. 🙂

 

Post 22

Looking at the rudder

I prefer to fit the rudder at this stage of the build while I can still fully manipulate the hull before any of the deck fittings are in place.

The provided kit rudder is good for profile but does need pre-fit fettling.

No mention is given in the instructions that ideally it should taper somewhat from fore to aft and from the hance to the base. There is also a chamfer or bearding  on the forward edge of rudders.

2929(2)

I have scribed the line of the Back piece of the rudder

Those who may wish to enhance the rudder could do no better than have a look at Chuck’s online instructions for his Cheerful kit (Chapter 11) or his own log (p25)

2926

There is a lot of trial fitting of the rudder.

For the Gudgeons and Pintles the kit provides pe parts with a simplified arrangement that allows for easier fitting but does not allow for movement in the fitted rudder, and looks slightly odd to those with an eye for the proper set up.

I happen to have parts of Chuck’s Pintles and Gudgeons kit left over from my Cheerful build which even at 1:48 scale can be tweaked to suit Alert.

I applied this system and it does work, allowing movement of the rudder and unshipping.

2955

Fitting the gudgeons from the Syren kit.

2954(2)

A length of wire is used to align the holes for the pintles.

2958

Fixing the pintles to the rudder.

2961(2)

I also used the fibre board straps from the Syren kit, which if anything look more in scale on Alert.

 

With everything in place small blobs of pva are used to represent the bolt heads.

The final touch to the Rudder head is the addition of the ‘iron’ hoops. These are represented by my old standby slivers of heat shrink rubber tubing.

2964(2)

With the rudder completed the tiller can be added. This is scratched from a scrap of boxwood section. A piece of stiff wire connects with a push fit to the rudder head.

 

A question arises in relation to the length of the Gudgeon braces.

The kit indicates they are fairly short and contained within the width of the stern post, and this is the arrangement on the Admiralty plans.

This is also mostly the case in the Alert Book drawings, but the General arrangement drawing on p52 shows them extending  onto the hull, as do the photo’s of the contemporary model of the Hawke circa 1777.

The lower gudgeon straps of Cheerful also extend beyond the stern post.

2988(2)

I have opted for the short version given that it reflects the admiralty plans.

2984(2)

In rudder hanging the aim is to get as narrow a gap between rudder and stern post consistent with rudder movement.

2983(2)

The subtle taper of the rudder is apparent in this photo.

2980(2)

Lemuel my Helmsman confirms the fit of the tiller before final finishing.

 

Next up – a look at the ordnance.

 

B.E.

13/10/2019

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 23

Catheads and hawse ports

The Catheads are one piece and pre-formed out of some 3mm wood, and have additional brass etch decoration and a pe cleat.

There is no reference to sheave holes in the Cathead, but I’m not sure of the wood type or whether it would stand up to slotting.

I decided to cut new Catheads out of 3mm Boxwood and cut a double sheave in the end.

This will allow for the rigging of a Cat Block and hook, something I like to see on a model.

3066

This is where the Proxxon mill comes in, very difficult to cut these slots by hand at the scale involved unless perhaps if saw cut are made in the outboard end which is then capped.

3091(2)

The sheaves are cut from Evergreen Plastic round section and held in place with brass wire.

3147

I did use the brass etch cleat for the Cathead stopper and the decorative border as these would be difficult to replicate at the scale. The border has a very fine profile on it, which I decided to preserve by coating the brass with only very flat matt varnish.

The kit also includes a Cathead decoration of a Crown representation.

There is no evidence that ships of this period carried such a cipher; Known decorations consisted of Lion/cat faces (hence the name) Star motifs, Fouled Anchors, and simple geometric mouldings.

3142(2)

I replaced this with a Fouled Anchor motif.

3140

I added a cleat on the upright to secure the Cat tackle.

3144(2)

I used the kit provided Hawse Port parts.

3134

The final addition to the Cathead set up are the support brackets.

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I will next have a look at the guns.

 

 

 

B.E.

19/10/2019

 

 

Edited October 19, 2019 by Blue Ensign

[Kurt Johnson]

Wonderful.

[davyboy]

Hi Maurice,

 

As usual lovely workmanship. Great job on the replacement catheads and sheaves,I like the idea of using plastic rod for them. Wish I'd thought of that on my Cheerful,I used dowels for all the sheaves. A pita as the smallest ones kept splitting when drilling .

 

Regards,

 

Dave    

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Kurt and Dave.

I did try dowel for the Sheaves, Dave,  but also found they split even with a 0.5mm drill, still in the finest tradition of 18th c model making I can always pretend they are bone or ivory.😉

 

Post 24

Looking at the Ordnance – Part 1 the barrels.

The white metal guns do have a nice scale look about them but leave something to be desired in terms of finish.

Mine had prominent seams, and there are noticeable longitudinal striations along the barrel, almost like a timber effect.

2995

These are apparent to the naked eye and not just the macro lens.

It will prove very difficult to get a clean surface, my attempts using wire wool and files were frustrating with the danger of affecting the reinforcing rings around the barrel and the already indistinct Royal Cipher.

3043(2)

The barrels did however respond well to blackening using Casey Brass Black.

3047

I did happen to have a set of Chuck’s excellent little fibre Royal ciphers, the smallest of which fit perfectly on the barrel.

There is an alternative Syren barrel in Brass with a length of 11/64” (29.75mm) This is a good match for a six pounder at 1:64 scale.

 

I did check the availability of a resin version with Chuck but these are some time away, pity because his already produced versions are superb, complete with clear cipher and touch holes.

3051(2)

Here a Syren 11/64” barrel on a kit carriage.

3053

Here the same gun on an incomplete Syren carriage.

3162(2)

 From left to right;

Blackened white metal Kit gun, Brass 11/64” Syren gun, Blackened Brass RB 29mm gun, Blackened Brass RB 32mm gun, Brass Syren gun on Syren carriage.

3159

From a different angle, at this point the carriages are incomplete.

3161

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I do like the proportions of the kit guns, but I can’t live with the quality of the white metal.

Chris has since posted that as an upgrade to the white metal guns, cast resins versions will be available.

I would suggest that these be made standard even at some extra cost to the kit. I can’t imagine a high satisfaction level from modellers with the metal versions, and for me the shortcomings of the white metal guns do damage the kit quality image.

 

The Brass Syren guns are beautifully made and a set for Alert will currently cost $46.50 for the barrels and $18.00 for the Boxwood carriages if required.

 

RB Models of Poland also produce very nice brass guns, I used their 32mm versions as the six pounders for my Pegasus build.

These look a little heavy on the Alert carriages, but their 29mm guns are a good match and very reasonably priced at around £10 delivered to the UK for a set for Alert.

 

Before I make a final decision on the guns I would like to check out the Vanguard resin upgrade and will buy a set if they become available, otherwise it will be between the Brass Syren or RB guns.

 

In my next post I will be attending to the carriages.

 

B.E.

20/10/2019

 

[AlanDavison]

BE,

The Syren guns don't look right to my eye and the white metal barrels you have are certainly worse than the set provided in my kit.

I will try to remove the striations on my guns by using a small needle file and then coating with a number of coats of self levelling primer before painting black.

Regarding alternative barrels you might also like to look at 3D printing, Shapeways have a web site showing several manufactures who produce all sorts of 3D printed items some of which include ships cannons, belfries, ship wheels and such in several scales. It takes a while to navigate to where you want to be, but you might find something useful. I believe you can also ask them to make bespoke items as well.

Regards

Alan

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for the heads up Alan I will have a look.

I do quite like the Kit guns, but you shouldn't have to work that hard to get them to look anywhere decent.

I don't have an issue with either the Syren or RB guns for style, the difference to the kit gun is perhaps the muzzle flare. The Syren and RB guns have a  seamless flare that  closely follows the design of the Armstrong gun which is period correct, and as shown in the Alert book drawings.

The kit gun looks like it has less flare and a reinforcing ring around the muzzle end that looks rather like the style on the model of the Hawke cutter.

You pays your money and takes your choice.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Steve,

I must admit to looking at the later pics and thinking 'what rubbish planking'.🙄 It is my first attempt at clinker, and I think I could improve on the technique were I to tackle it again, a task I have little enthusiasm for.

Still it doesn't look too bad to my eye from 12" or so, but then my eyesight is not what it was.🙁

I always hope the bashing I do on these kits does provide  a few ideas for those following on, and doesn't add to their frustration.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 25

Guns Part 2

Moving onto the carriages;

The carriage design has been taken from the Alert book and is a good representation for shape.

Each carriage consists of five main parts plus the wheels.

Cleaning up the parts consists of a light sanding of the laser burn but be careful with the axle pieces they are quite fragile.

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I found the carriages easy to assemble, more so than many other examples I have done in the past. I didn’t even need to make a holding jig, just used a barrel to ensure squareness of the setup before the glue dried.

 

There are pre-drilled holes to take the two eye/ring bolts, and the Transverse bolt which spans the two carriage cheeks.

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The eyebolts and transverse bolt are part of a pe set, but for me the eyebolts don’t work that well looking too chunky for the carriage cheek.

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My own preference is to use Amati fine copper eyebolts and rings for carriage fittings at this scale, and I have included additional eyebolts, or hoops as they properly are called, and the ring to carry the breeching rope.

3172(2)

Some extra effort is required to make up and blacken twelve sets of ring bolts, and five eyebolts per carriage, but for me it’s worth it.

3170(2)

Once assembled a coat of paint is applied and the transverse bolt is blackened and glued into place.

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The next somewhat tedious job is to attach all the iron work to the carriages.

 

A puzzling feature for me are the square cut holes in the wheels (trucks) to fit over the axletrees.

I expect axletrees to be square but the ends being rounded to fit the wheels.

3009(2)

Here the Alert laser set is overlaid with a Syren set, the axle holes are round, and a slight rounding of the axletree allows for fitting.

It makes sense to me that the wheel hole is round and the axletree is then carefully rounded to give a good fit.

 

Never mind, for the purpose of the exercise I went with the kit arrangement.

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I added the wheel bolts or impressions of them by the simple expediency of marking them using a sharply pointed 9H pencil.

On my kit at least the axletree and wheel mortices were not universally a good fit, and I will have to use a fine filler to rectify the issue.

 

This is as far as I am going with the guns at present, there is still a fair bit of fettling to do, and I need to decide on the barrels.

 

B.E.

23/10/2019

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 26

Companionways and hatches

I will start with the Companion to the Captain’s Cabin, effectively a hinged sky light.

This is reproduced in the kit as a brass etched item, with the coamings and head ledges pre-formed in a wood material. These are shaped to reflect the proper joints rather than a simple edge join.

The item goes together very well and it is a straightforward assembly particularly for the novice builder.

The kit version is as per the drawings in the Goodwin Alert book. A boxy affair with a flat top and glazed square lights.

A slight puzzlement is that the kit version has 42 lights contained within the frame whereas the book drawing has 30 lights, which for me looks better, less like a grating.

 

There seems to be as many variations of the Skylight design fitted to Alert as there are models and paintings.

 

Within the Alert book there is a contemporary painting of a model dated 1775 showing a clerestory style skylight.

The contemporary model of Hawke (circa 1777) shows the familiar pitched roof glazed sides version.

The modern Cole model of Alert has a glazed top but longer, and in a different position.

The Irving Kingman model also has a version of the pitched roof style of skylight.

 

I made up the kit version but I tweaked the thickness of the framing to allow for the skylight to sit in a recess rather than just positioned atop the Head ledges and coamings.

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Using micro brass tubing I added hinges to allow opening of the light.

 

My preference is for something slightly more interesting than the kit provided item, so I opted for the clerestory style as shown in the painting of the model of ‘Alert.’

The oil painting by Joseph Marshall 1775.

 

 The notation in the Goodwin Alert book reads:-

An oil painting of the Alert cutter model dated 1775. Various features comply exactly to the modified draught of the Rattlesnake used for the 1777 Alert. These include the squared gunports, the five shroud deadeyes and three backstays chain plates. The painting formed part of the George111 Collection of ship model paintings.

This is at variance to the notation in The Science Museum:- who hold the painting, and gives the date as 1755.

Perspective view, possibly drawn to illustrate an experimental design rather than an actual plan. a model is known to have been built from design of Sir J Acworth d.1749. - Not part of the series of ship model paintings commissioned by King George III. - Ship is cutter, 6th Rate; eight were in service 1753-1754

Interesting to note that the table on which the model sits, does say ‘Alert’.

The paired stern quarter view painting

 

Regardless of these descriptions, the model as painted does look very close in design to the Alert I am modelling.

Still I digress.

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This is the first attempt of creating the skylight using a bit of Boxwood scrap.

My prime concern was getting the scale looking right as I don’t have specific dimensions, but it looks ok to my eye.

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A view as per Joseph Marshall’s painting.

 

B.E.

26/10/2019