Providence by KenW - FINISHED - 1:48 - Colonial Sloop

[FriedClams]

She coming along and looking really good Ken! 
 

Gary

[KenW]

I hope everyone is hunkered down in their shipyards and remains healthy and safe.

 

The planking above the wales is completed.  I used a pencil to simulate the caulking and applied one coat of Wipe-on-Poly.  Everything went as it’s supposed to with no problems. I added a block under the keel so the model looks ‘level’ and the water line, but I think the block is too much.  I’ll work that out when I finish planking and make a cradle later on.

 

 

[KenW]

In order to plank below the wales, I first need to “line off” the hull.  I should point out that I consider planking below the wales to be the hardest part of modeling.  You need the proper measurements and do all kinds of bending to get the planks to sit properly. Anyway, I completed the “lining off” and can see where I need to make some adjustments.  I see the green tape needs to be moved at the stern. Now the fun begins. Stay well and healthy.

 

   

[KenW]

The upper band (next to the wales) has been planked.  I did a rough sanding and I think it went well. Now I’m creating new paper ‘tick strips’ to account/correct any variations.  I’m definately going to have to do another coat of black paint on the wales when the planking is done. But that’s not really a problem.  I’m going to do the middle band next and the band that borders the keel last. Comments, etc., are welcome.

 

   

 

[G.L.]

Nice planking work, Ken.

[KenW]

Thanks G.L.  And thanks to all the likes.

[KenW]

The middle band is planked.  It was much more trickery than the last one.  Bending the stern planks was a challenge. It had to be edge bent twice in two different directions, and then a regular bend to place it properly next to the keel former.  There were several failures and my trash can became full quickly. Again, I’ve sanded with 80 and 120 grade sandpaper. I will sand with finer grades later and then add the Wipe-on-Poly.  I’ll also have to do some paint touch-ups on the wales.

Next up is that last band that is next to the keel.  I don’t know if I should work from the band just completed or from the keel to the already completed bands.  If anyone has a recommendation as to which way I should work, please let me know.

 

[mtaylor]

It seems to be a matter of choice.  The advantage to working from top down and bottom up is being able to fit drop plank or stealers easier.

[KenW]

Thanks Mark. 

I hope to not need stealers or drop planks.  So I think I'll alternate; one down and then one up, etc.

 

[KenW]

The starboard side of the hull has been planked.  It looks better than my last model, so I’m making progress.  The trick is to properly bend the planks.  On the aft part of the hull, two edge bends and one normal bend is required.  That makes for a weird looking plank.

 

And this plank will still need some adjustments.  Photos are attached and you can see some places where I didn’t do enough adjusting.  A lot of patience is required.

 

[Bossman]

Ken, your planking is beautiful! Superb work Sir. 

[Chuck]

Ken

 

Its looking very good.  Well done.!!!

[KenW]

Hull planking is complete.  I added a molding to cover some problems where the hull planks meet the counter.  I used a plain molding since the Providence was a converted merchant boat without much decoration.  Next, I’m going to add another plank above the wales to ensure the cap rail will pass over the bowsprint.  

 

 

[Chuck]

Ken that looks really good.  A really nicely planked hull!!!

[KenW]

I sanded down inside of the bulkheads and cut the ends so the hull looks more like a boat.  I made a cradle for the boat, although I need to get a wider piece of wood for the base when my arts store is able to open.  I decided to have a “false” deck.  To do that, I first zeroxed my deck plan and I glued it to two 1/16 inch sheets of wood.  

 

 

I sanded the two pieces down so they fit the deck pretty good.  I want to remove the green paper, but I need to map out where everything will be placed before I glue the “false deck” to the bulkheads.  I’ve also got to get the warp out of the wood and get the bend so it sits down without pressure.  Then I’ll plank the bulwarks and paint them red.

 

[jwvolz]

Very nice work so far Ken. 

 

What woods did you use for your planking?

[KenW]

Thanks Joe.  I used boxwood for above the wales and holly below.  The wales are basswood sanded and painted.

I have to preserve my boxwood and holly.

Cheers.

[FriedClams]

Excellent work Ken - your hull and planking look great.  Nice progress.

 

Gary

[KenW]

That green paper copy of the main deck has been removed.  Two knightheads were made to match a photo I have of the replica.  I added spirketting in walnut.  I used walnut because I need to preserve my stash of boxwood and holly.  I’ll plank the entire bulwarks in walnut which will be painted red.  Then I placed (no glue) the deck furniture and my two test guns as well as a sailor that is supposed to be in the right scale.  The windlass is a ‘bastardized’ kit from Syren’s Cheerful model.  It had to be made much smaller.  The hatch gratings are also made from a Syren kit. 

 

[KenW]

The bulwarks are planked and painted red.  I’m now getting ready to plank the deck.  I’ll use the same method as was used by Chuck Passaro on his Cheerful model.  I will have to make more tick strips.

 

   

[KenW]

I began planking the deck.  I’m using basswood since that’s all I have.  I notice that my center line is way off, even though I didn’t see that during the planking process.  I’ll have to see if I can determine the cause.  Making a model from scratch requires a lot of precision which I haven’t got (yet).  I’m using the method described in Chuck Passaro’s Cheerful log with tapered planks and hooked scarf joints.  This means I have to make tick strips.  Chuck even pencils in each plank and plans for the location of each scarf joint.  So I have work to do before I lay down any more planks.  I’m not comfortable with my ability to make proper nibbs into the waterway.  

 

[KenW]

After an almost sleepless night, I decided to remove ALL the deck planks and start over.  So I used water and lifted the planks from the false deck.  Since I’m pretty impatient, I used too much water which caused the center of the swiss pear false deck to warp.  I cut out about an inch of warped wood and cut a piece to replace it.  The deck is now cleared for action and I’m ready to try again.

 

You can see the old deck planks on the right which will find a place in my trash bin.  The hatches are able to be re-used.  I need to do more sanding and create new tick strips.

 

[KenW]

OK.  After removing the old planks and patching up the false deck, I’ve made new tick strips and started planking the deck.  I have a piece of string set up from the knightshead to the stern to act as a chalk line.  And the new planks have a straight line up the center of the deck.  So now planking can continue.

 

[KenW]

 

 

It’s been awhile since my last post, but I have been working on the Providence. I’ve finished planking the main deck, done some sanding and added a coat of Wipe-on-Poly.  The blue tape is to protect the bulwarks from the sanding dust.  I intend to sand some more and add the partition to the officer’s quarters before I do another coat.  It has been a very hot summer, so far.

 

 

[FriedClams]

Good to see an update on the Providence Ken. The decking turned out real nice and I like the rich honey color of the wood/poly combination. Looking sharp and clean.

 

Gary

[KenW]

Work on the Providence continues at a slow pace.  I’m on a bit of a vacation to get out of Brooklyn and the heat.  I finally finished the doors to the officer’s quarters.  I know that there isn’t much room between the wall or partition and the two aft guns, but the partition would be stored below the water line when the order to clear for action is given.

 

 

[KenW]

I’m continuing to make ‘deck furniture’ for the main deck of the Providence.  Since my last posting I’ve made the cat heads, the bilge pumps, two belaying pin racks and a lantern.  I also made some belaying pins which are ⅜  inches long which scale-wise translates to 18 inches.  That is about the size of the pins I’ve seen.  On the Providence replica, the bilge pumps are painted black.  They are placed next to the hatches for the photo.  That isn’t their final location.  The quarter deck will protrude over the aft main deck and there will be a supporting beam so I thought it would look good to have a lantern hanging from that beam between the two doors.  The lantern is about ⅜ inches high. 

 

         

 

[FriedClams]

Nice progress on the Providence Ken.  Excellent work on the pumps and I really like the lantern - it has great proportions, coloration and is nicely made.

 

Gary

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Went theu log Ken, very nice work exceptional planking, inspired. following  V. 

[KenW]

My modeling has been slow lately due to our return to Brooklyn.  I’ve constructed the piece to hold the cannon balls.  The cannon balls themselves are actually silicone ball bearings.  They even came in black.  I found them on Amazon; they are called uxcell 1/16 Inch Ceramic Bearing Balls, Si3N4 Silicon Nitride Ball G5 Precision 100pcs.  (A four lb. ball was 3 inches.)  I glued them onto the holding piece with CA glue and added some Doc O’Brien’s Weathering Power Grimy Black (available from Micro-Mark.)  Then I added another coat of black paint just to the holding piece to add a little contrast.