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Posted

That is a great colour  reminds me of the 70s  scalextric  cars colours.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted
12 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

That is a great colour  reminds me of the 70s  scalextric  cars colours.

 

OC.

Thanks OC. It's somewhat washed out due to using the camera flash mode. The photos were taken late in the afternoon while the sky was very cloudy. As a result, there was little to no natural light. In natural light, the color is a little darker, more like a light metallic emerald green. 

Posted

That green is going to sparkle under a high gloss finish....

 

I like it.....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

Great colour Craig, it'll be cool looking motor👍

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

Posted
Just now, Edwardkenway said:

Happy birthday Craig 

Thanks Edward. 

 

Outdoor lighting gives a much better rendition of the actual color of the model.

When I went to mix my clear coat system, I found out my bottle of hardener had actually solidified completely, making it unusable. Now I know this stuff has a shelf life. I had used the 2K clear coat system on a few different models over the course of the past year, but by now, it had perished.

In lieu of the 2K clear coat system, I used Mr Color gloss clear for the clear coat finish observed on the model as it stands now.

 

DSCN3661.thumb.jpg.fa88fb27441a16bb183e99129eeccce5.jpgDSCN3662.thumb.jpg.3a5e332f1b562718803ea74fc3809e90.jpgDSCN3663.thumb.jpg.4168b3a151f6aae3ef8a919a9c2fcdb5.jpgDSCN3664.thumb.jpg.f750d45149940cd1382570be90d5345d.jpgDSCN3665.thumb.jpg.694606a57d6956f3a99b45edd0d6cacc.jpg

Posted

That is downright gorgeous, can't wait to see it fully dressed and in the sun......

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

Very very nice mate  - that paint job is show room standard.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Colour is even better with the gloss coat and lighting, top notch 😁

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

Posted

Next will begin working on the interior. I have some photo etch door handles and window cranks, as well as photo etch and printed instruments/instrument cluster panels.  These should be far better than the molded on details which are rather soft on detail. To show it all off, will probably use the top down feature rather than top up. In the meantime, will begin stripping all the chrome from all the detail parts and begin the task of painting them.

Posted
Just now, fnick said:

Lovely colour, quick question if you don't mind  how do you strip chrome and what brand and colour would you recommend for repainting it(for someone who doesn't have an airbrush...)?

Muchas Gracias in advance!

Nick

Nick

 

I use a product called "Super Clean" to strip chrome parts. In the USA, it can be found in the automotive section of WalMart stores, sold in one gallon containers. Super Clean is a cleaner/degreaser and I believe it is citrus based. I don't know whether this product or an equivalent is available in Europe. When I am doing small chrome parts and not using an airbrush, I use a Molotow chrome marking pen. They come in 1mm, 2mm, and 4mm tip sizes. Makes a very nice chrome finish and the pen makes it very convenient. For larger parts, there are various spray cans of chrome paint that do a decent finish. https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-Set/dp/B074JJ1YMY

Posted

That looks awesome Craig, fantastic work!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted
On 4/16/2020 at 2:30 AM, fnick said:

Lovely colour, quick question if you don't mind  how do you strip chrome and what brand and colour would you recommend for repainting it(for someone who doesn't have an airbrush...)?

Muchas Gracias in advance!

Nick

I used household bleach to remove the chrome off a couple of kits I’m working on.  Interestingly, Clorox didn’t work at all (it might not have been actual bleach, but a fancy bleach alternative that my wife used for laundry).  I then found a bottle of no-name brand bleach hidden in a cabinet and that worked perfectly, stripping the chrome off the sprues in less than 30 minutes.  
 

These days, stores are sold out of bleach. I have seen people say they have good results spraying the sprues with oven cleaner, then sticking in a ziploc bag.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted
Just now, Landlubber Mike said:

I used household bleach to remove the chrome off a couple of kits I’m working on.  Interestingly, Clorox didn’t work at all (it might not have been actual bleach, but a fancy bleach alternative that my wife used for laundry).  I then found a bottle of no-name brand bleach hidden in a cabinet and that worked perfectly, stripping the chrome off the sprues in less than 30 minutes.  
 

These days, stores are sold out of bleach. I have seen people say they have good results spraying the sprues with oven cleaner, then sticking in a ziploc bag.

Maybe one of us should test whether liquid chlorine might work safely on chromed plastic. I always have liquid chlorine on hand for our swimming pool. Over the next few days, will make it a point to try that on some scrap chrome pieces to test it out. Liquid chlorine is an undiluted version of bleach but one has to be extra careful with it as it can create quite strong fumes. 

Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, CDW said:

but one has to be extra careful with it as it can create quite strong fumes. 

Some people here have also said that they use brake fluid to strip chrome. At all costs keep it away from brake fluid! VERY bad JuJu.

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

How about   Isopropyl alcohol   would taht work at all  I know its very good on metal contacts  like camera and lens  contacts.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Super Clean?

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted
5 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

I know its very good on metal contacts  like camera and lens  contacts.

That is cleaning the oils and dirt, not stripping the finish.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted
12 minutes ago, lmagna said:

That is cleaning the oils and dirt, not stripping the finish.

I see,  I didn't know Lou,   chemo  at school wasn't my strong subject  - I knew water  was  known as  "that wet stuff"   lol

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Javlin said:

Very Nice paint CD!! :imNotWorthy: Kevin

Thanks Kevin. 

I first used several coats of Tamiya white primer thinned with Mr. Color leveling thinner at a ratio of 1 part primer to 3 parts thinner, wet sanding between coats. Then the color, then the clear coat. Clear coat gets mixed in a ratio similar to the primer, 1 part paint to 3 parts thinner.  

Edited by CDW
Posted
2 hours ago, lmagna said:

Some people here have also said that they use brake fluid to strip chrome. At all costs keep it away from brake fluid! VERY bad JuJu.

I saw people recommend that too but no way would I try or recommend that!!  

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted
39 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I saw people recommend that too but no way would I try or recommend that!!  

Everyone has their favorite method/material for stripping paint and chrome....

Some of them are nicer than others, but, old tried and true rules the day.....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

You can sometimes use 90% isopropel alcohol to remove paint and decals. But it all depends on the paint, too. Different paints react differently. Best bet is to try it out on a test piece.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted
Just now, Canute said:

You can sometimes use 90% isopropel alcohol to remove paint and decals. But it all depends on the paint, too. Different paints react differently. Best bet is to try it out on a test piece.

And a lot depends on how well cured the paint. Well cured paint is much more resistant to removal vs: freshly painted plastic. If I screw up a paint job and strip it within a few days after laying down the paint, it comes off with relative ease. Old models that have been painted for years can take days (soaking) to strip the paint. 

As you mentioned alcohol will remove Tamiya paint for sure.

Posted
22 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I saw people recommend that too but no way would I try or recommend that!!  

I think I may have mis-worded my statement yet again. There may not be an issue with using break fluid, or with using Chlorine to strip model paint. BUT if you combine the two compounds it is certain that you will not be happy with the results. 

 

Our bomb squad showed us a live demo back in my academy days and believe me it was IMPRESSIVE! 

 

I think our demo used larger doses with much larger results but here is an idea of what happened just by mixing the two. The goo left over could very well be your model, or even worse your modeling location. 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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