Sassafras 12 by ccoyle - Chesapeake Light Craft - FINISHED - 1:1 scale canoe - you read that right

[Roger Pellett]

Are these EU regulations that will be relaxed by Brexit?

[ccoyle]

Prepping for fiberglass continues. Bottom panels and fillets sanded smooth, #2 strakes taped off, and fiberglass draped and smoothed.

 

[ccoyle]

Well, the weekend came back around, which means it was time for the final bit of fiberglass work. I think I finally got the handle on how to work with the stuff, so this step only took me about 90 minutes to complete. As our friends from across the pond say, I'm quite chuffed about how this turned out.

 

Last night I trimmed the fiberglass cloth and cleaned up my work area. The instructions said nothing about slitting the cloth at the ends, but of course the draped cloth naturally wants to create folds there. I made just enough of a cut to allow the cloth to hug the sides neatly, then tacked the ends with tape.

 

 

Applying the resin went lickety-split this time around. I worked with small batches, and it took six batches to do the entire job. The flatter portions I worked with a spreader, and the ends were finished off with a disposable chip brush.

 

 

An extra piece of 4" wide cloth covers each end. I cut darts into each strip about half-way into the curved portion to eliminate some of the pucker.

 

 

Once this is cured and trimmed, it will be time to seal the entire canoe with two coats of unthickened epoxy.

[mtaylor]

The next thing we'll know is that you'll be tempted to car repairs and making aftermarket part, Chris.   She's looking really good.

[Jim Lad]

She's looking really good, Chris!

 

John

[Keith Black]

6 hours ago, mtaylor said:

next thing we'll know is that you'll be tempted to car repairs

 He'll be laying up a Vet body before we know it. 

Edited February 7, 2021 by Keith Black

[ccoyle]

After 7+ hours of curing, the resin was dry enough to trim without being rock-hard. The tape at the ends naturally got a little more slop on it and bits of it will need to be sanded away when everything is completely cured.

 

 

And we got a little treat tonight.

 

[Jack12477]

just get out the leaf blower for that little dusting,  Chris ! 😉😃😃

[Canute]

In Jersey or New York, that's a nuisance snow. Here in the Carolinas, it's a major storm.

[ccoyle]

In Mariposa we referred to this as "cosmetic snow." Not a lot, to be sure, but I like winter, and I don't feel like we've had a proper one unless I get at least one decent snowfall. Like some fruit trees, I need a certain amount of cold set to feel well-adjusted and productive for the coming spring and summer.

[Egilman]

To most out here in Washington that's a major snowstorm, heck two feet here just about paralyzes the community.....

 

 

[Keith Black]

13 hours ago, ccoyle said:

And we got a little treat tonight.

 

We've had your "little treat" on the ground for at least six weeks. I'm so tired of our biweekly "little treats" I could puke. If I could catch that pampered woodchuck I'd ring it's fuzzy neck! 

Edited February 7, 2021 by Keith Black

[Jack12477]

4 hours ago, Egilman said:

To most out here in Washington that's a major snowstorm, heck two feet here just about paralyzes the community.....

 

 

6 inches of white stuff will paralyze Manhattan and the Boroughs 😀  

[ccoyle]

"Painting" with unthickened epoxy is time-consuming and not particularly fun, but it has to be done. Here, the entire inside has received its first coat, and that includes the two end compartments. Don't ask me how many batches this task required -- I lost count! In fact, I strongly suspect I will run out of epoxy and will need to resupply. In the back you can see one of the two decks; these also got epoxied on their interior sides.

 

 

Now, I have a question for you experienced builders out there, like @Bedford. The instructions don't say anything about sanding in-between epoxy coats. Is it a good idea? Optional? Or wait until the second coat is done and sand before varnishing?

[Jim Lad]

Just make sure that all that epoxy is properly dried before you ship her off to me, Chris.

 

John

[Bedford]

Well since you asked, the recommended method with the bote coat epoxy I used was to re-coat while the previous coat was still a little tacky which ensures the best bond. Having said that don't panic because if you couldn't do that they recommended sanding with coarse paper between coats to give a better surface for bonding.

 

What I have read in wooden boat building forums is that the epoxy you are using will get what they refer to as an "amine blush" when it cures. This is a result of the chemical reaction and must be washed off before another coat of epoxy or paint is applied.

 

So, knowing what I now know, I would suggest:-

1- wash the epoxy with soap and water and rinse well

2- sand with 120 grit wet and dry  WET, you'll be amazed how well it works once it starts building up a little sludge

3- rinse again and when dry apply more epoxy

 

Don't sand too much between coats but try and get it a bit even because epoxy tends to run a bit and you will get very thick beads of the stuff that will take a lot of sanding to remove later. I know it's difficult but try and get it on there as thinly as possible to reduce runs

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Bedford said:

Don't sand too much between coats but try and get it a bit even because epoxy tends to run a bit and you will get very thick beads of the stuff that will take a lot of sanding to remove later. I know it's difficult but try and get it on there as thinly as possible to reduce runs

The few times I've done an epoxy finish I've used the same technique as I've done many times for a urethane finish on furniture.... Very thin coats scuffed in between...... Yes it is time consuming and get to be a real bore, but the finish comes out mirror smooth and perfectly clear.... The only difference between epoxy and urethane is wipe it down after scuffing to remove the sanding residue.... And don't try to do the whole thing all at once work in sections.... The point of multiple thin coats is to perfectly smooth the finish..... And sand your sections in long strokes, your knocking down the high spots and building up the low spots.....

 

It's up to you on how much you want to do, but more coats equals a deeper, more polished finish......

[Roger Pellett]

I agree about the amine blush.  Epoxy also does not hold up well to UV light.  If you intend to leave the hull with a bright finish the final coat should be a UV inhibited marine varnish.  I don’t understand why the clear coating with epoxy is necessary.  I would just use multiple coats of a quality marine varnish.

Edited February 8, 2021 by Roger Pellett

[ccoyle]

Okay, I think I need to clear up some things. The epoxy in this case is not the finish; at this point in the construction it is essentially a sealer. The unthickened epoxy is still pretty darn thick -- it's like trying to paint with honey. Perhaps the cold temps these days have something to do with that. In spite of how thick it is, I was still disappointed to find later that there were quite a few runs, even though I had endeavored to spread it as thin as possible. As for finishes, the instructions recommend marine varnish for anything left bright, and marine primer & paint for anything else. I may end up painting the interior if I'm not entirely happy with the epoxy results -- I'll wait to make that decision.

 

Thanks, all!

[Bedford]

6 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

  I don’t understand why the clear coating with epoxy is necessary.  I would just use multiple coats of a quality marine varnish.

The idea is that once you start with epoxy on ply you may as well keep going and seal the whole thing completely. Apparently varnish is not guaranteed to seal completely but three coats of epoxy will and it's a lot tougher than varnish however. as stated, epoxy needs UV resistant varnish or paint to protect it from the sun

[ccoyle]

I should also add that the epoxy is probably intended to add some structural strength, considering how thin the plywood is. But hey -- I'm not a boat designer. I'm just following the instructions based on the assumption that these guys know what they're doing! 😁

[Roger Pellett]

Many years ago I built a glued lapstrake canoe that looked remarkably like your Sassafras. It was designed by a guy named Tom Hill who published plans in his book Ultralight Boatbuilding.  Instead of using expensive Occume plywood I used cheap Luan floor underlay plywood. This technique is true lapstrake boatbuilding with lapped seams glued with epoxy instead of clench nailed.

 

Like you I covered the two bottom planks with fiberglass.  The rest of the hull I just painted with 2-3 coats of quality marine paint.  The hull was plenty strong and the canoe got plenty of use.  I don’t think that the epoxy resin adds strength.  When used in conjunction with cloth, it is the cloth that adds the strength.

 

 

[Harvey Golden]

Sealing plywood with epoxy doesn't add strength per-se, but does harden the surface of the wood (and a touch below the surface). This increases it's abrasive resistance and dent-proofs it.  Do take steps to avoid amine blush-- I'm a victim of this, and it will add the nastiest gunkiest  hours of scraping un-set paints or varnishes off your surfaces.   Another tip-- for epoxy runs, get them before full-cure with a cabinet scraper, and you'll enjoy time not sanding.  Great project, BTW!

Best, Harvey

[FriedClams]

Been reading through your log Chris and you're doing a great job. I've never tried stitch & glue but it produces a really nice result. It's coming together very nicely.

 

It has been said that the amount of enjoyment a boat provides is inversely proportional to its size.  I believe that statement to be true as there is no craft more enjoyable than a solo canoe.  About 25 years ago, I built a 14' solo stripper from plans I found in the back of a Wooden Boat magazine.  It was made of Western Red Cedar, glass cloth and polyester resin. It looks decent enough in the photo, but close inspection reveals the hand of an inexperienced builder.  But it floated and could take a beating.

 

 

Because it weighed so little (like all solo canoes), it could be carried down trails even over difficult terrain back to quiet and secluded waters.  Ponds of a couple hundred acres, alive with waterfowl, beavers and dragonflies and where the backwaters are a tangled mess of dead-fall and primordial mud.  No motorized craft, no cabins, no other people and no noise.  Wonderful.

 

I don't have that canoe anymore and I sure miss it. Reading your log gives me the itch to build another one (minus the mistakes I made on the first one.)

 

Sassafras is looking terrific Chris and I'm sure you are going to love paddling your local waters.  If you're new to canoeing, developing strong and efficient paddling skills is important even if you decide to avoid fast rivers.  Strong winds blowing across flat water can be a challenge for even the strongest paddlers.  And my experience has been that wind develops unexpectedly and will always blow you back away from your take out point.  Bring a dry-bag with a change of clothes.  And Deet.

 

Look forward to seeing the completed craft. Have fun.

 

Gary

[Keith Black]

2 hours ago, FriedClams said:

Bring a dry-bag with a change of clothes.  And Deet.

 

 Gary, you forgot the most important items to bring along.......a brown bag lunch and a thermos of hot coffee! 

 I've got an 8ft aluminum flat bottom boat and like you, I enjoyed finding remote areas in which to row, drift, and dream. Chris, I'm sure you're going to enjoy every second you're on the water in your beautiful canoe.

 

[Roger Pellett]

This is a true canoe story, and depending on what you plan to do with your canoe, a cautionary tale.

 

A friend of mine was duck hunting from a canoe on one of our large Northern Minnesota lakes.  He was paddling solo and was using a brand new expensive Baretta Automatic Shotgun.

 

He shot at a duck, lost his bearing and found himself in the water alongside a swamped canoe.  The lake was shallow enough that he could stand up but when he tried to empty the canoe it kept flooding.  After shooting at the duck, the gun then automatically reloaded and in capsizing he had inadvertently squeezed the trigger and blown a hole in the bottom of the canoe.  To make matters worse, after shooting the canoe, the gun would have automatically chambered another round! The loaded gun is still on the bottom of the lake.

 

Roger

[ccoyle]

31 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

a cautionary tale

 

Not a problem. I neither duck hunt nor own any expensive shotguns. 😉

[popeye the sailor]

your canoe is coming along great!  you'll get better with resin work.....soon you'll be a hand at it   

[Ian_Grant]

On 2/7/2021 at 3:50 PM, ccoyle said:

 

Now, I have a question for you experienced builders out there, like @Bedford. The instructions don't say anything about sanding in-between epoxy coats. Is it a good idea? Optional? Or wait until the second coat is done and sand before varnishing?

I agree with Bedford. If you add the next coat while previous coat is a little tacky, you get a chemical bond between coats. If you wait until fully dry, then you must remove the blush for which acetone is the best. You need to rough it a little with sandpaper because now you depend on the physical bond between coats so a rough surface is needed for keying.

 

When I made a cedar strip canoe I did three coats of West System Epoxy on the hull exterior in one day, the second and third applied before the preceding coat dried, as recommended by Ted Moores of Bear Mountain Boat Shop who wrote the book. God that was a loo-o-oong day!

 

By the way I have been inspired by Chris's build to post old photos of my canoe build; see "Peterborough 16".

[ccoyle]

On 2/7/2021 at 7:13 PM, Bedford said:

So, knowing what I now know, I would suggest:-

1- wash the epoxy with soap and water and rinse well

2- sand with 120 grit wet and dry  WET, you'll be amazed how well it works once it starts building up a little sludge

3- rinse again and when dry apply more epoxy

 

Been thinking a lot this week about how to proceed with the epoxy. In light of what has been said about the need to remove any amine blush, it seems like the best way to move forward would be to round off the rails, glue the decks on, and then get the entire exterior + rails coated, so that no bare wood is left to get wet during the washing process. Seems sensible to me.