HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale

[JpR62]

Thank you Don and Glenn for your encouragement and Thank you to all the 'Likes'.

I am also very happy to have recovered from my health problems and to be able to resume my work on this beautiful model. Chuck has put so much thought into its development that it's really a pleasure to build. Really the ideal model to start a first-time scratch building.

Edited December 19, 2022 by JpR62

[JpR62]

I glued the six deck structures and fitting onto the deck.

I started by drawing the dividing line of the deck into two equal parts (from stern to bow) and also drew the first line across the deck where the deck beam is located. The others lines will be drawn as the deck structures are put in place.

For the precise placement of the fittings, I used the method described by Mike (Stuntflyer) in his wonderful build log. A small mark is drawn on the front and back of each element (in the middle) which allows me to glue precisely in relation to the dividing line.

When installing the next fitting, I also check the distances to the previous element.

and I also check that the distance from the deck structure to the margin plank is identical on each side.

In order to prevent the previous element from moving, I naturally waited until the glue had set before working on the next element. The installation was therefore spread over a good day.

You will notice that the companionway is not finished. Since I'm going to leave the access doors open, I was afraid I might accidentally break them when I put the deck planks in place. So I will wait until the deck planking is finished before finalizing this element.

[glbarlow]

Excellent work.  Measure twice and once you’re absolutely sure it’s right measure again is a good philosophy at this critical stage which you clearly are doing.

[archjofo]

Very nice work !

[FriedClams]

Good to hear your recovery is going well Jean Paul. Wishing you a healthy and happy new year.

 

Gary

 

[JpR62]

A big thank you to all for your encouragement and I take this opportunity to wish you a good year 2023 !

I set up the first plank of the ship's deck. I again used the method described by Mike (Stuntflyer). A small mark is drawn on the middle of the plank (front and back) as well as on the center of each of the deck elements. I also used a sheet of card stock to make sure the boards were aligned between each element.

But the pictures will surely be more understandable.

Next step: glue 2 new rows of planks on each side of this central row.

 

[FriedClams]

Nice progress Jean Paul.  Good method for placing that center deck plank.

 

Gary

[JpR62]

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.

Yes Gary, the method described by Mike works quite well. We are fortunate to have a forum used by such talented people. All credit for this method goes to its creator 🙂.

 

This week, I finished the installation of the 5 rows of center planks.

I then traced the layout of the planks of the first belt which in my case will include 7 rows.

I started again from a copy of the plan on which I placed the situation corresponding to my model (actual position of the margin plank and limit of the central belt).

Once the dividing line of the two belts was drawn, I reinforced the photocopy by gluing a sheet of cardboard on its reverse side and cut out the copy of the plan to use as a template.

All that remains is to calculate the spacing on each of the transverse lines representing the deck beams and to connect these points together. I also drew with a felt pen the separations of the planks on their length in order to respect the butt shift pattern.

I will be able to start working on this first belt.

 

[JpR62]

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.

In parallel with my work on the fishing boat 'Batelina', I continued to make progress on the planking of the Cheerful deck. An important step has just been taken as I finished this step yesterday which should mark the end of the dusty work.

It took a lot longer than I thought it would, but I think a lot of hard work was necessary to try to get a satisfactory result.

A new coat of teak oil will have to be applied to the deck elements because the sanding of the deck has left some marks.

While blowing away the dust, one of the delicate window panes also flew away and disappeared... And of course, as I had left the house to blow out the dust, it was impossible for me to find him... Fortunately Chuck was generous with the material provided and I still have the two extra window panes that come standard in the kit.

I will now drill the rudder port and put the seats in place on each side at the stern.

Edited February 26, 2023 by JpR62

[glbarlow]

Nice work, well done. It’s such an accomplishment to complete the last of the planking, your patience and determination for a good result has paid off!

[BobG]

Gorgeous, Jean-Paul!

[Thukydides]

Looks fantastic, great job on the planking.

[jfhealey]

Yout hard work was certainly worth it Jean-Paul. The deck is looking lovely.

All the best

Fred 

[the learner]

Vacation I hope, I know all about recovery it can be a slow process and really changes your life! I lost my left lower leg a year ago last December and just now starting to he up and moving with a new prosthetic leg. You have a lovely build in process, keep up the good work.

[Freebird]

Very nice! Hope mine is half as good as yours!

 

Best Regards …. Rick

[allanyed]

The planking is some of the finest I have seen here at MSW.   I wish more people visited your log to see the subtlety that should exist rather than the fat black lines and treenails.

Allan

Edited April 10, 2023 by allanyed

[JpR62]

It's been a long time...

First of all, a big thank you to all the people who have encouraged me and commented pleasantly on my work.

While working on my Batelina, I made a few small advances on the Cheerful.

First of all, I finalized the stern details. Just follow the instructions, which are really the best you can do. Don't be in a hurry, and take things one step at a time...

I also fixed the windless definitively to the bow, using a small piece of wood to make sure it was placed at the right distance and in the right position.

To be continued

[scrubbyj427]

Very nice work JP! Is that all boxwood?

[Chuck]

That is looking fantastic.   Happy to see you making progress on the Cheerful.   Have a great Holiday and New Year!!!

[JpR62]

1 hour ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Very nice work JP! Is that all boxwood?

Thank you ! The hull is planked with cherry wood and for the deck I use boxwood.

 

[JpR62]

59 minutes ago, Chuck said:

That is looking fantastic.   Happy to see you making progress on the Cheerful.   Have a great Holiday and New Year!!!

Thank you Chuck !

Working on the Cheerful is a real pleasure. Everything is perfect, and the instruction manual is absolutely precise and didactic. You just have to take your time.

Enjoy the Holiday too and a Happy New Year to the whole family!

[JpR62]

The scuppers

 

Using photocopies of the plan, I determine the precise location of the scuppers. With the point of a needle, I mark the spot to be drilled.

Then I drill the scuppers in two stages: a first hole is drilled with a drill bit smaller than the final measurement, then this hole is enlarged with a bigger mandrel to the final size of the scupper.

To be continued

[glbarlow]

Nice to see you back working on Cheerful, it’s all looking. Great, excellent work!

[jfhealey]

48 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Nice to see you back working on Cheerful

I'll second Glenn. Looking good!

Fred

[JpR62]

It's been a long time... But I've had a busy year. Having decided to retire this year, I've been very busy professionally. I've had to document the various professional projects I've carried out over the past 24 years and, above all, train my colleague who will be taking over my various tasks. As a result, I've had little time to devote to my hobby and, above all, I've completely given up sharing my work on this site.

 

I was able to make some progress on my Cheerful and I'll try to share it with you. Here, in a few posts, is a summary of my work.

 

I drilled all the holes needed for the carronades. I used a small jig that allowed me to drill them identically.

I also enlarged the bowsprit hole by checking its size with a wooden rod of the same diameter as the bowsprit.

Then the catheads were built, faithfully following the method explained in the instruction manual. The photos below summarize some of the stages in their construction.

More to come

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Very nice work! Congratulations on retiring, now you have plenty of modeling time!

[JpR62]

Thanks JJ! My retirement is very recent (July) and during the summer my two children were at home because it was the school summer break.

But as of next week, they'll be back at university and that's when I'll have plenty of time! 😄

[JpR62]

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.

 

I decide to prepare the bowsprit next. I faithfully follow the process described in the instruction manual, which is really excellent. Just take the time to read and re-read the instructions...

I draw the lines that delimit the different sections of the bowsprit, as well as the lines of the 7-10-7 ratio that will allow me to round off the bowsprit.

The various holes are drilled at this point, because it's easier to drill them perpendicularly on a square part... I simulate the sheave.

The three square holes are shaped and tested for size using a good-sized boxwood section.

To round off the round section of the bowsprit, I use a holder and a mini planer. I based myself on a drawing found on page 13 of the excellent book 'The Fully Framed Model' (TFFM) - Volume IV, written by David Antscherl, which describes precisely how to build masts and yards. The tool is referred to as 'Holder for planing masts and spars eight-square'.

Finally, I finish off the shaping with a sheet of sandpaper and my small Proxxon DB250 woodturning lathe. The bowprit step comes from the Syren kit and is a little wonder to assemble. As precise and well thought-out as ever.

I finish by coloring the various parts and elements that need it, and then do a blank edit to validate the whole.

But before installing the bowsprit, I'm going to build and fix the two long guns. I'll have more space to fit them...

To be continued

[JpR62]

Thank you for all the 'Likes'.

 

My work continued with the construction and fitting of the two long guns and the bowsprit installation. I'm also preparing the carronade barrels.

I start by gluing on the English monograms (from Syren). I'll also add the touch hole (cannon vent) on the barrels of the cannons. They consist of a small square of lead foil (a wine bottle cap) with a small hole in the center.

I then airbrush the guns. First I use a black undercoat (Black Surface Primer from Vallejo) followed by the final coat of paint (Black from Vallejo with a drop of Imperial blue and a drop of Gun metal).

I then prepare the small elements that will detail the gun carriages. The MF70 mini milling machine from Proxxon is a great help...

All these small metal elements are then chemically blackened. The box contains the various parts that will detail the carriages of the two long guns.

I then assemble the two long guns, put them in place and fit the bowsprit. I'll come back to the mounting of the carriages in more detail when preparing the carronades.

I then realized that I still had to fill in the gaps created by the installation of the catheads...

 

To be continued.

 

[JpR62]

Thank you for all the 'Likes'.

 

The work continues with the assembly and installation of the outhaul block.

I applied the method used by Mike (Stuntflyer) and described in detail in his superb log on the construction of his Cheerful. I enclose a copy of his instructions, which I followed as precisely as possible.

I just simplified the task by using a 4mm brass sheave from Amati.

The outhaul block is mounted, the sheave installed and 4 small holes drilled. All that remains is to sand the part to its final shape.

The outhaul block is finished. The four treenails are simulated using small pieces of 0.4 mm brass wire.

And I glue it, using a copy of the plan as a guide.

To be continued.