28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

[BANYAN]

A thing of beauty indeed, very clean work.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[lraymo]

Your build log is a Master Class in craftsmanship!  Beautiful!

[druxey]

The rudder has now been completed and fitted. One question I had was whether it was fitted with a short tiller or a yoke. There is a tenon on the upper end of the rudder, but no clue as to what the original boat was fitted with. Rightly or wrongly, I opted for a yoke. It is similar to that seen in some contemporary models. This completes the boat itself, apart from a little tidying up.

 

The last task on the model itself is to make a set of oars. With a beam of under 7 ' 0", rowing double banked would seem rather crowded. Opinions, please?

 

[wefalck]

Just checked against my more or less contemporary sources - there is a textbook on German (naval) boats that was first published in 1878 and then subsequently re-edited about every four years until 1929 (I have all issues either as hardcopies or ebooks). The '22nd class cutter' is of comparable dimensions, i.e. 8.5 m long between the perpendiculars and 2.1 m beam. It has seven rowing thwarts and the complement is given as 35 rowers and other numbers, which seems to imply four rowers per thwart - indeed rather crowded.

[Bedford]

With that beam it would easily take two per thwart.

[druxey]

Thanks, Bedford. Now I have to figure out the oar length. Theoretically for her beam, they should be about 19' 0" long. Seems a bit too long to me, but....

[TBlack]

Not sure how you determined 19', but there would be about 3' of oar in the boat, if there are 2 oarsmen per thwart. That means 16' outside? That REALLY doesn't sound right.

Edited June 8, 2021 by TBlack

[druxey]

I agree, TB. I'm thinking 15' 0" overall would be closer to the mark.

[Bedford]

Just as a reference point, my row boat has a beam of 4'6" and the oar guide recommended the oars should be 8'6". Don't know if that helps but the wider the beam the longer the oars

 

[FriedClams]

Beautiful work Druxey!  This build log is a real tour de force of small open boat modeling.

 

In regards to the oar length, I found this formula when building a small wherry a few years ago.  It comes from a oar and paddle manufacturer's web site and it is similar to others I've seen.

 

[(D/2 +2) divided by 7] x 25 = length.  D = distance between oar locks .

 

It states that the inboard to outboard length ratio should be 7:18.  The length of the inboard portion of the oar is dictated by the width between oarlocks. To maximize leverage, the oar handles should overlap by 4" when held level (parallel to the waterline.)  So for each oar, the inboard length is 1/2 the distance between oarlocks plus 2".

 

So for instance the beam on your boat is 7' or 84”.

 

84" divided by 2 + 2" = 44”'

 

To achieve the recommended 7:18 ratio, the inboard portion must be 7/25ths of the total length.  In this case that means (44 / 7) X 25 = 157”

 

And 157” is just a hair over 13' total.

 

 

This formula is probably not applicable to your model, but I though I would throw it out there anyway.

 

Love this model Druxey - thanks for sharing your build techniques.

 

Gary

[wefalck]

Just remembered that German colleague of mine wrote a three article series about the boat-oars used for the different types of boats used in the Imperial German navy. According to the contemporary sources the 8.5 m long cutter with 2.1 m beam and seven thwarts was equipped with the following oars:

 

12 oars in total of which 8 were type VI and 4 type VII. The dimension are then a per image:

Type VI: A - 4250 mm, B - 2630 mm, C - 1400 mm, D - 220 mm, E - 140 mm, F - 16 mm, G - 8 mm, H - 43 mm, J - 65 mm, K - 40 mm, P - 815 mm and the leather cover 390 mm long.

Type VII: A - 4000 mm, B - 2480 mm, C - 1400 mm, D - 220 mm, E - 140 mm, F - 16 mm, G - 8 mm, H - 43 mm, J - 65 mm, K - 40 mm, P - 815 mm and the leather cover 390 mm long. 

 

The longer oars are used towards the rear of the boat.

 

So the oars have an overall length of around 13'11" and 13'2" respectively. The inboard end is about 41" and as there are two men on each oar they do not overlap in the middle, as they would for a single man on two oars.

[druxey]

Thanks, Eberhard. The pattern of the oars you show are a little different, but 14' 0" is pretty close to my estimate of 15' 0". The bow-most oars would be a bit shorter in the shaft, for sure. That is very helpful.

[wefalck]

I am sure there are many different patterns of oars, depending on the environment they are used in and how many men row on one oar.

 

Sea-oars in general are symmetric, meaning there is not front or back and they are straight, i.e. the blades are not dished. Per stroke they are less efficient than inland-water or racing oars, but they are safer to handle in a sea. For this reason they are also fashioned from a single piece of wood, rather than having separate blades, as is common in inland-water oars. As there are no heavy blades, there is also less need to counter-balance them apart from the gradual increase in diameter towards the inboard end. Inland-water oars often are much thicker on the inboard end to counterbalance the longer reach and the heavier blade.

 

Just to mention, these rationales apply to European-type craft, while in other regions of the world heavily counterbalanced sea-oars are seen.

[AON]

The sweeps on the whalers and cutters I am familiar with were exactly that and very light, made of ash.

[shipman]

Very interesting sub topic: oars. I'd be interested to read more, if anyone would care to elaborate.

 

If the oars are ash; surely they got too hot

[wefalck]

Sure they got hot when worked hard 🙃

 

Fraxinus excelsior L. (ash) was probably the most used species of wood in Europe, perhaps also Ulmus spec. (elm). In Northern America probably also hickory (Carya spec.)

Edited June 8, 2021 by wefalck

[AON]

I did get blisters but no splinters.

[Roger Pellett]

The following information is from “ Standard Designs For Boats of The United States Navy” by Philip Hitchborn, U.S.N.  AKA “The U.S. Navy 1900 Boat Book.  Although published 45 years after your model other than development of ironclads and steam propulsion, the U.S. Navy was very resistant to change in the second half of the Nineteenth Century.

 

The Book lists a 28ft Cutter. With breadth of 7ft-5in and depth of 2ft-8in.  The boat could be steered either with a short tiller passing through a mortise in the rudder head or a yoke secured by a tenyon atop the rudder head.

 

The boat was rowed double banked with 10 oars; 8, 14’-0” Long and two 13’-0” Long.  Position of the leather was 2’-7” and 2’-4” respectively.

 

[druxey]

Thank you, Roger. That confirms the 14' 0" length I've been considering. Also, I agree that ten oars was the compliment, as the aftermost tholes could not be used unless sitting on the stern sheets with the officers - most unlikely! Thank you for the reference; it is most helpful and varies only slightly in dimensions from the sizes I came up with.

 

I appreciate the input from everyone on this model. I'd also like to mention that the model has now been pre-sold to a member of this forum.

 

[Keith Black]

10 minutes ago, druxey said:

the model has now been pre-sold to a member of this forum

 David, congratulations. Whoever has purchased the cutter is acquiring a true piece of art. If only had I know you were going to sell it.......

[AON]

you taking orders?

[Keith Black]

4 minutes ago, AON said:

you taking orders?

 

 No kidding!

[dvm27]

Just make ten more for the rest of us.

[druxey]

I usually only build editions of one. However, if someone would care to commission a different model, please PM me.... Thanks for the compliments, everyone.

[shipman]

'unless sitting on the stern sheets with the officers - most unlikely!'

 

Would an officer always be present?

 

Mistake admitting you sold the boat, especially to another member. ENVY 

[AON]

I wonder if an auction would be frowned upon.

[Bob Cleek]

5 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

The following information is from “ Standard Designs For Boats of The United States Navy” by Philip Hitchborn, U.S.N.  AKA “The U.S. Navy 1900 Boat Book.  Although published 45 years after your model other than development of ironclads and steam propulsion, the U.S. Navy was very resistant to change in the second half of the Nineteenth Century.

I envy your having Standard Designs for Boats of the United States Navy. I have a large format copy of Bill Durham's 1963 "Shellback's Library" selected excerpts from it.  Hitchborn's edition is a 2008 reprint of the original 1900 GPO edition. I can't seem to find a copy of Hitchborn for less than around $250, which seems odd for a book published so recently. (Martino Publishing. Out of business? Limited edition?) The original GPO edition, when one comes on the market, runs about $1,000.

 

Would you consider leaving yours to me when you die?  

Edited June 8, 2021 by Bob Cleek

[rlb]

There seems to be no end to the minutiae of this hobby/craft.  That makes it all the more interesting.  Druxey, I imagine that you enjoy the making, more than the keeping, of these miniature masterpieces.  As well as valuing that they go to someone who appreciates them.  Unless you are destitute, which I doubt.

 

Ron

[Keith Black]

2 hours ago, AON said:

I wonder if an auction would be frowned upon.

 

 Alan, I've often thought that an auction of pieces donated to the NRG would be a great way to raise funds. Donating a model would be asking a lot but it could be smaller pieces like lanterns, stoves, or other small bits made by the great MSW/NRG artisans. 

 

Edit

 

The above statement was in no way meant to suggest that David donate one of his models. I apologize for any misunderstanding my statement may have caused. 

Edited June 8, 2021 by Keith Black

[druxey]

Well, this has unexpectedly generated some interesting discussion! 

 

Ron: You are absolutely correct; I do enjoy the challenges of making, not keeping my models. And that they go to appreciative collectors. Although not destitute, I can assure you that I'm far from wealthy in the usual sense, but am fortunate in having a very rich life.

 

I think the above answers the idea of donating one of my models for auction as this is my livelihood, not my hobby. I wish I were of independent means!

 

Back to the topic in hand: I've settled on ten 14' 0" oars for the model. Perhaps the bow pair may be a little shorter. Thanks to those who have contributed their knowledge; it's really appreciated.