IJN Akitsushima by CDW - FINISHED - Pit-Road - 1:700 Scale PLASTIC - Seaplane Tender

[lmagna]

2 hours ago, CDW said:

Been there and done that, it just doesn't work.

It's again a little more expensive, (What idea that I come up with isn't) but what I did when I was faced with almost 2000 portholes in the Titanic hull was to buy these to get the job done.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BLACK-DECKER-4-Volt-Max-3-8-in-Cordless-Screwdriver-1-Battery-Included-and-Charger-Included/1003094446

 

https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Capacity-Cordless-Screwdrivers-45-01401/dp/B08TB6J7Z1/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=mini+drill+chuck&qid=1623427454&sr=8-2

 

The screw driver runs at about 500 RPM (+-) and the light can come in handy. I also use it as a screwdriver all of the time. The battery last forever before needing a charge

 

I may have bought a different chuck but the one I linked to is pretty much the same thing. It is pretty much a modeling only thing but when used with the screw driver has found it's way into a number of projects over the years. The combination easily drilled all of the portholes in the Titanic hull in about three sittings and used one bit without breaking it. 

[CDW]

Great idea Lou. Next time I'm at Lowes, will look for one of those.

[popeye the sailor]

I've got two kits that are in the boat as your project here.........both sets of instructions are in Japanese.  do you have a solution for it?  I have a friend that was stationed in Japan.....even married while he was there    I have an IJN aircraft carrier that is going to be hard to paint,  not knowing what colors to use...I've yet to do research......I'm hoping my friend can help me.  thanks to Lou........I have a variety of IJN colors....I just hope I have the right ones   

[lmagna]

7 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

both sets of instructions are in Japanese

I have no idea what kits you have Denis, but you might want to look on Scalemates. Sometimes they have a copy of the latest instructions in PDF format. If so then possibly theirs is in English. 

[CDW]

13 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

I've got two kits that are in the boat as your project here.........both sets of instructions are in Japanese.  do you have a solution for it?  I have a friend that was stationed in Japan.....even married while he was there    I have an IJN aircraft carrier that is going to be hard to paint,  not knowing what colors to use...I've yet to do research......I'm hoping my friend can help me.  thanks to Lou........I have a variety of IJN colors....I just hope I have the right ones   

 

This is just a, "what if" suggestion. Never tried and don't know if it would work....

Online, there are cut and paste text translators to go from one language to another. In the web browser Microsoft Edge, there is an add-on language translator as well. When I go to certain foreign websites, I just click on the "translate" button to see what it says in English. Now it's got me wondering, what if you scanned and saved your instructions as a PDF file then opened them in the web browser. Would it translate the Japanese into English from the PDF file? I don't know but I am going to make it a point to give it a try. It just might work. I also have instruction sheets written in languages other than English that I will try out.

[lmagna]

One small thing that has bugged me since the first picture of the kit showing the seaplane sitting backwards on the stern. It for some reason sets off a "This is wrong" response in my head. 

I finally had to looks and see if this was the way the plane was carried when on deck. I only found one picture and while not conclusive it looks more "Proper" in my head.

https://inchhighguy.wordpress.com/2018/12/08/japanese-seaplane-tender-akitsushima-秋津洲/

 

[CDW]

14 minutes ago, lmagna said:

One small thing that has bugged me since the first picture of the kit showing the seaplane sitting backwards on the stern. It for some reason sets off a "This is wrong" response in my head. 

I finally had to looks and see if this was the way the plane was carried when on deck. I only found one picture and while not conclusive it looks more "Proper" in my head.

https://inchhighguy.wordpress.com/2018/12/08/japanese-seaplane-tender-akitsushima-秋津洲/

 

Keep in mind the aircraft was not transported by the ship, just loaded onto the ship for maintenance while anchored then offloaded when maintenance was completed. The mooring on the ship rotated so the aircraft could be positioned in any way that allowed maintenance to be performed, so i guess it would depend on exactly what maintenance or repairs was being performed as to the direction the aircraft was positioned. 

[popeye the sailor]

I looked in scalemates.......no dice    I have the Nichimo 1:500 Shokaku and the Hasegawa 1:450 U.S.S. Missouri...not so concerned about the Missouri,  more on the Shokaku.

 

sounds like a good idea to try..........at present,  I have issues with the printer to straighten out.

[CDW]

Just now, popeye the sailor said:

sounds like a good idea to try..........at present,  I have issues with the printer to straighten out.

 

Did some searching and figured out how to do the translation. It is a process, but it's explained very well in this short video.

(411) How to Convert Image to Word Document - YouTube

 

I tried it out and was able to translate the Japanese text in my instructions to English in fairly short order, but you will need to go through a few steps to do it.

 

My instructions:

 

img20210611_14132694.pdf

 

The translation from Word:

 

・ Kawanishi Type 97 Flying Boat (H6K) It is the first four-engine flying boat in Japan, and at the same time it is a special aircraft in the history of Japan Airlines as the first four-engine aircraft designed by a Japanese. In 1934, the Japanese Navy instructed Kawanishi Aircraft to prototype nine large-scale flying boats. Kawanishi Aircraft, which had previously returned to short companies in the UK and had the know-how of making large metal flying boats, made full use of the state-of-the-art construction technology of the time, such as a double-digit box structure using waveboards, to complete a beautiful aircraft that had not been seen in flying boats in various countries until then. The first unit, which made its maiden flight in July 1946, showed good stability and maneuverability, with no other problems that were somely lacking horsepower. After the increased prototype up to Unit 4, it was adopted as a type 97 flying boat in January 1948, and made its actual debut in the latter half of the Sy-China War. His main mission was to patrol and transport the oceans, but it was also used for bombing and long-distance transport of torpedoes. However, in the middle of the Pacific War, low-speed and poor bulletproof equipment began to cause damage from anti-aircraft fire and enemy aircraft, and it was likely to be easily shot down in air combat with U.S. bombers (especially B-17 and B-24) and, consequently, Catalina flying boats. Therefore, the end of one great war went to the rear mission, and one main duty was replaced by the type 2 flying boat. However, the stability and the transportation ability were changed, and the 97 type flying boat was used as an airliner in the private sector before the war. The southern route by Dainair, which received 18 aircraft, gracefully fyed across almost the entire western South Pacific, including Saiban, Bangkok and Ponave. The Allied codename is Mavis. ◎ Data (Type 23) Overall width: 40.0m, Total length: 25.6m, Engine: Venus 53 type air-cooled 1300hPX 4, maximum speed. 385km/h, armed: 20mm machine gun x 1, 7.7mm machine gun x 4, 800kg torpedo or bomb x 2 ・ Kawanishi Ni type flying boat (H8K) Appeared as a follow-on aircraft of type 97 flying boat, it is a masterpiece aircraft boasting the world's best performance as a flying boat that appeared in World War II. The Type 97 flying boat, which was adopted in 1947, demonstrated excellent performance, but the short Sunderland of the British army and the Martin 156 clipper of the U.S. army, etc., which had been tested around the same time, all surpassed the 97 type, and the Navy immediately directed the trial manufacture of a new four-shot high-performance flying boat that could compete with these. The required performance is a maximum speed of 4 Km / h or more, a cruising range of 7,408 Km or more, 5 20 mm machine guns, 4 7.7 mm machine guns ...

[CDW]

Fine Molds are producing a lot of beautiful 1:700 scale injection molded weapons and accessories sets nowadays better than resin, but man, they are so darned expensive for the small amount of contents in each box. Excellent products but everything I see is in Japan, overpriced, and a high cost for shipping. Would like to see Flyhawk produce some more WW2 IJN subjects. You get a lot for the money with their products. My Scharnhorst kit comes with quite a few extra accessories and weapons, more than required to finish the kit. I need to find out if I can buy case lots of Fine Molds products for a good discount.

[CDW]

The funnel on a model of this size in this scale would be a plain blob of plastic without the photo etch enhancement. In reality, I had to cut away and sand smooth some molded on details before applying the photo etch, but it would have looked "blah" without the photo etch. Gator's Grip acrylic glue was used here in this instance. I brushed it on the funnel then slid each photo etch piece in place while the glue helped steady it in the correct position while I got the multiple pieces lined up and spaced the way i wanted them. It would be much more difficult to do using CA glue in my opinion. The acrylic glue gives that extra working time to sort things out.

 

[CDW]

Having a hard time getting my phone camera to focus in on the macro level needed to capture the details being added to this tiny part.

 

[king derelict]

That is excellent work at such fine detail. It looks so accurately applied.

I like the Gators Grip for the extra working time and because it dries with a bit of flexibility so a slight knock doesn't ping the PE off the plastic

Alan

[CDW]

Just now, king derelict said:

I like the Gators Grip for the extra working time and because it dries with a bit of flexibility so a slight knock doesn't ping the PE off the plastic

Alan

 

Thanks for the kind words Alan. I agree on the benefits of Gator's Grip. It's not perfect for every photo etch gluing situation, but it certainly comes in handy where you need extra time to situate the small pieces. If I tried doing those same pieces with CA, would have a big mess, but I have seen others do it without a lot of adverse issues.

[Old Collingwood]

Some great work being done there mate, I have found the only thing you can do with the close focus is to try to focus slightly in front of the intended object  as depth of field generaly extends further behind than in front.

And what a great idea with the Acrylic glue (I will have to try and sorce that out for my Hood build)   I already have their super glue  but can see the benefit of the Acrylic.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Just now, Old Collingwood said:

I have found the only thing you can do with the close focus is to try to focus slightly in front of the intended object  as depth of field generaly extends further behind than in front.

 

The auto focus on these cameras seem to operate with a mind of their own. Seems in this instance, it insisted on focusing on the print on the bottle cap rather than the part I wanted it to capture. I don't how to manually focus on a particular object or if that's possible.

[Old Collingwood]

32 minutes ago, CDW said:

 

The auto focus on these cameras seem to operate with a mind of their own. Seems in this instance, it insisted on focusing on the print on the bottle cap rather than the part I wanted it to capture. I don't how to manually focus on a particular object or if that's possible.

Yep, they work by looking for higher areas of contrast and detail.

 

OC.

[CDW]

I remembered a while back building a black shadow box for taking photos. Popped the funnel in there to see if it helped the focus.

 

Wow, what a difference that shadow box makes!

 

Everything marked in black on the superstructure gets removed for photo etch replacement.

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Excellent fix with the photos  - that funnel looks  superb Craig.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

21 minutes ago, CDW said:

I remembered a while back building a black shadow box for taking photos. Popped the funnel in there to see if it helped the focus.

 

Wow, what a difference that shadow box makes!

 

Everything marked in black on the superstructure gets removed for photo etch replacement.

 

 

Spectacular work. 

[mtaylor]

Stunning photos.  Right up there with Gaetan's work.

[CDW]

Working the bridge

 

 

On another note, I ordered and received the digital copy of the 1:144 Akitsushima plans to consider a future scratch build. Took to PDF file on a thumb drive to my local Staples office supply store who plotted out the 2 page plans on their 36" printer/plotter. They came out beautiful, very crisp detail and well done by Black Dragon. 

The finished ship model in 1:144 scale will be approximately 36" in length. In the meantime, I ordered the 1:144 scale Arii H8K2 seaplane from Japan. At least that part would not require a scratch build.

[king derelict]

6 minutes ago, CDW said:

Working the bridge

 

 

On another note, I ordered and received the digital copy of the 1:144 Akitsushima plans to consider a future scratch build. Took to PDF file on a thumb drive to my local Staples office supply store who plotted out the 2 page plans on their 36" printer/plotter. They came out beautiful, very crisp detail and well done by Black Dragon. 

The finished ship model in 1:144 scale will be approximately 36" in length. In the meantime, I ordered the 1:144 scale Arii H8K2 seaplane from Japan. At least that part would not require a scratch build.

That is beautiful work. Its almost a shame to paint it.

 

Alan

[yvesvidal]

10 hours ago, CDW said:

On another note, I ordered and received the digital copy of the 1:144 Akitsushima plans to consider a future scratch build. Took to PDF file on a thumb drive to my local Staples office supply store who plotted out the 2 page plans on their 36" printer/plotter. They came out beautiful, very crisp detail and well done by Black Dragon. 

The finished ship model in 1:144 scale will be approximately 36" in length. In the meantime, I ordered the 1:144 scale Arii H8K2 seaplane from Japan. At least that part would not require a scratch build.

 

That will be quite a project, that we will all be following with attention and interest.

Yves

[CDW]

Degaussing and micro small antennae

 

[Old Collingwood]

Excellent work Craig.

 

OC.

[CDW]

10 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

That will be quite a project, that we will all be following with attention and interest.

Yves

 

If I decide to do it (and that's a big if), it will be a long term project worked in between other smaller projects. Don't think I will have the patience to stay on it full time. Particularly when it gets down to all the small details involved.  

[CDW]

When building 1:700 scale model ships, unless you're building a Flyhawk model, it's likely you will want to upgrade the weapons and accessories from the stock kit pieces which are often soft on detail. One of the best weapons and accessory details you can buy are from the Fine Molds Nano Dread series. Unfortunately, these are not easy to find and can be on the costly side, however the detail is excellent. I wanted to recommend a particular dealer in North America called Models-4-Less. Excellent prices, fast and friendly service, great inventory. I must admit, I did clean him out on a number of the Fine Molds IJN weapons sets in 1:700 but he has a broad inventory of kits and accessories. The owner's name is Alan, and his web address is: http://models-4-less.com/index.php

Give them a try and tell them I sent you.

[Hsae]

Quite impressive work in 1/700!

that would be nothing for me, way too small. My limit is 1/350

 

Hermann

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks for passing along the source.  I have been recently picking up resin upgrades as well.  Expensive for sure, but will save time and aggravation in trying to bend two-dimensional PE to create guns, rangefinders, etc.  I had enough of that on my destroyer - I couldn't imagine doing that for a cruiser or battleship!  By the way, along with Fine Molds, you can get resin parts from a number of outfits, including Five Star, North Star, Black Cat, Veteran Models, etc. across all scales - 1:700, 1:350, 1:200, 1:144, etc.  

 

I don't want to think about how much I've dropped on those sets, but for some things like guns, I think having resin or 3D printed will look much better as the barrels for example will be tubes and not 2D representations.  You can also look to outfits like Master barrels who combine resin/plastic with brass PE and barrels.  I just picked up some sets to upgrade the guns on my Gambier Bay.

 

I also saw that Fine Molds makes resin upgrade sets for particular ships.  One stop box to fully upgrade your model.  Here's one they did for the Ise in 1/700 that I was excited to find:

 

 

I wish Veteran came out with more sets like this one - talk about pimping out a 1/700 kit!  11 PE frets, 28 brass barrels, and more that 200 resin parts!  I happened to see it randomly on eBay for a steal and quickly bought it.  Set was from 2009, and for some reason, Veteran didn't do too many other sets like this.

 

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/pe/veteran/vta700002-kongo/vtm-review.html

 

 

 

Ultimately, hopefully Flyhawk and others will come out with more all-in-one boxes with full upgrades.  Five Star and Niko are doing that in releasing 1/700 resin hulls with full PE and resin/plastic upgrades.  Otherwise, it's a bit exhausting trying to source various upgrades, particularly when you have to match them to a particular kit.  Fujimi for example might have half a dozen different iterations of the same ship so you need to be a little careful when picking out the PE to match the kit (or vice versa).

 

Edited June 15, 2021 by Landlubber Mike