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Posted

OH my word!  Drooling through your build log pages....I can see how you create with such skill, this wonderful vessel.  Along with your own hand/eye skills you have a nice machine shop to magnify those skills.  A surgical light, and what appears to be a modified surgical/dental chair to hold and elevate your model...just at the right height and latitude. :rolleyes:

 

Excellent work...thanks for the fantastic tour.  I'll follow your build with anticipation.

 

Rob

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

Posted (edited)

Rob, I think that it is difficult to understand; just at the right height. Few weeks back, I went to Ikea, they had a table with a handle to place it: just at the right height and it was really cheap to buy. It happens that I waste money to buy useless tool, but it also happens happens that I buy tools which are useful every day. A height adjustable table is 1 one these tool. Table height is rarely the perfect height height to work.

The last 74 weighed around 120 pounds so the dentist chair is also very useful. I forgot, there is also another  tool that I like very much, a 360 degrees  graver vice, because there is not only the height but also the position to make the job easier.

 

Here is my small parts  box and advancement for the fences.

post-184-0-40086200-1467204915_thumb.jpg

post-184-0-94064100-1467204916_thumb.jpg

post-184-0-64110600-1467204918_thumb.jpg

post-184-0-41406400-1467204920_thumb.jpg

post-184-0-99672000-1467204921_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
Posted

The thickness sander that is showing in the picture, I have that one. Still works great, have problems with getting sand paper for it, but still have some left. I bought it use about 3 or 4 years ago.

Wacko

Joe :D

 

Go MSW :) :)

Posted

Joe you are right, it is hard to get paper but in fact almost every kind of paper goes as long as it is 3 inches wide.

Actually I am using almost exclusively cherry and cherry is easy to sand so 1 band last many months.

 

Bloodwood is the hardest wood to sand  that I tried because it burns and clog the belt very fast

#80 grit, I use and on the roller, it does a nice job  finer than what we could think.

In addition #80 does not clog as #120 would do.

Posted

As soon as I seen the hand-wheel I knew what machine it was and the make right off the bat. I like that you can just put the piece or pieces on the belt drive and run it and then flip them over and run again. I also use the #80 grit paper most of the time, changing the paper all the time is a bother LOL.

Wacko

Joe :D

 

Go MSW :) :)

Posted

That is some very outstanding workmanship and a beautiful model Gaetan

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

Hi Marc

 

Magnification is a 2 parts affair; light + magnification.

 

The smaller the detail, the stronger light is needed. Incandescent is not strong enough, halogen is yellow  and radiates too much heat,  fluorescent tube of  appropriate kind is fine, the kind used by the jeweler LED is the last  and it is performing very well. You can go even higher with lighting used in hospitals.

 

Magnifying glass in the hand or on a stand (not recommended because the focal distance always change when you move), add-on on glasses, headband (in the middle very affordable and the most common I use with different strength in magnifying glass),  surgical magnifying glass loupe, the ones I prefer for wood splinter in the fingers but also for intricate carving details.

 

Now if you ask which one to choose,  well of course it depends how much you want to pay and how much you want to see?

 

For lighting I would go for a jeweler LED light example Dazor and for the magnification do not go less than the headband but there are of different quality, Optivisor is a good company.

 

Hope that helps

post-184-0-19714600-1467407019_thumb.jpg

Posted

Gaetan,

 

Simply brilliant. Just found your log and will be following. 

 

PS: that is QUITE a shipyard that you have there (:-)

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Monsieur...

Votre modèle est incroyable. Les détails et la précision de votre travail sont exemplaires. Magnifique!!!

Edited by captgino

Jean-Philippe (JP)

 

Current build: Syren , HMS Victory Cross Section, Essex

 

:dancetl6:Please visit and subscribe to my YouTube Channel

 

On Hold: Rattlesnake (Scratch built)
Completed:   Armed Virginia Sloop, Viking ship,  The Flyer, Pilot BoatKrabbenkutterMarie-JeanneSloup, The Smasher

Mayflower

Posted

Just beautiful, Gaetan.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Gaetan

 

Your posts bring a smile to my face.  Brilliant work!   You show nine carved pieces to fit in the small carved pieces.  Were there many that wound up in the scrap pile in order to get the nine good ones?   Of all the woods you have tried for carving, what are your favorites?   Sorry if you commented on this earlier in the log, but I had not seen if you had commented before on this.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted (edited)

Thank you,

 

 

Hi Allan, your second question is very good!

 

''Were there many that wound up in the scrap pile in order to get the nine good ones? "

 

I lost one… in the bottom od the ship! The rail at the mizzen mast is not glued yet to the floor. When I installed it for the pictures, the second one from the left was not glued well and detached itself and felt right in the bottom. Often I can recover the parts  with a stell rod  which is hone with a  very sharp end. This time, it was too much difficult, not enough access and some times parts like to play to hide.

 

"Of all the woods you have tried for carving, what are your favorites? "

 

For small intricate carvings, small and very tight grain wood is required to retain sharp edges. In theory, many exotic woods would fit in the list. Every body is free to try hardwoods with tight wood pores. In Europe, they have easy access to boxwood which is excellent for small details, but boxwood would not always be my first choice. I have seen few models with boxwood for all the carvings and the rest of the model made with few other woods. Wood properties are 1 thing, color is also very important especially when there is more than one. Some colors complement well together and some other simply do not.

 

For this build, I used exclusively cherry (except for the table of the second deck, which is australian cherry). I like the effect of the monochrome color for stern decorations.

 

Generally fruit woods have tighter wood grain. In this category, I am pretty sure I could try  some carvings with other fruit wood which could include intricate details with sharp and fine edges.

 

With this build, I decided to go with 1 kind of wood; cherry that I paid $2,00 pmp delivered at home. Here in Quebec, there is no access to boxwood, we have access to exotic wood but the price are  very much exotic. I had access 1 time to apple wood and I was very pleased with it. This wood would be the perfect wood for planking : oak wood at small scale with tight grain!

 

Depending of the area where we live fruit wood is the best category. For many years, I would have liked to see and try orange  and peach tree but or climate is too cold to have these trees.

 

We have lilac which has a nice tight wood grain. I find too restrictive to think that boxwood is the only wood that can be use for carving. To me, it is also too much restrictive to think that pearwood is the only wood that can be use for a model. I have even read that 1/48 scale was the only official scale. To me 1/48 scale is  widely use for only 1 reason, because it is the largest scale easily handable by 1 person.

Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau

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