Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[GLakie]

That's outstanding work Ed. Is Skulpey and Magic Sculpt basically the same or is one easier to work with for certain applications than the other?

[gjdale]

Just outstanding Ed!

[michael mott]

Ed the bow decorations are simply superb.

 

Michael

[Elia]

Ed,

 

I'm in complete agreement with the others - absolutely superb work on the decorations. Beautiful.

 

Elia

[Mirabell61]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853

Part 116 – Bow Decoration

 

Young America's bow decoration is interesting for a number of reasons.  Each side is different.  Just aft of a billet decorated with greenery, the carved figures rest mostly on the waist planking and partially on the base of the billet.  There were no headboards, so it is not clear how these were mounted on the original ship – much less how to mount them on the model -  due to the angle between the two surfaces.  Also, unlike the gilded stern decoration, the figures at the bow were painted in natural colors.  All this, like many other aspects of the ship, is based on Bill Crothers research.

 

After some unsuccessful attempts to fashion a wood base in the angle, I finally decided to sculpt these as six separate pieces, then fit them together on the bow.

The first picture shows the initial figures, sculpted with MagicSculpt^® on wax paper taped flat on the pattern sheet.

 

YA116 01.jpg

 

The figures are quite small.  The starboard side features a female figure – presumably Liberty – with a shield flanked by draped flags.  On the port side an American Eagle is substituted for the female figure.  Below is the sculpted female figure before any post-hardening refinement.  The points on the flag staffs are thumb tack points.

 

YA116 02.jpg

 

The next picture shows some refining of the sculpture using a very small chisel.

 

YA116 03.jpg

 

In the next picture the fragile greenery has been lifted off the waxed paper, laid on the billet and touched with a drop or three of thin CA.

 

YA116 04.jpg

 

 

Refinement of the greenery was done after being glued on.  In the next picture the three port figures have been fitted and glued on with CA.

 

YA116 05.jpg

 

The figures were set into soft sculpting material placed in the angle between the billet and the side, than pushed into a fit.  Some modification of the parts was needed for this.  The sculptures must leave clearance for the square bowsprit to slide in and out.  Excess material was removed.

 

After attachment, the figures were primed with thinned flat black enamel.  The entire hull was given one last coat of acrylic paint and the figures were painted using acrylic gouache.  The next picture shows the starboard decoration.

 

YA116 06.jpg

 

The next picture shows the port side.

 

YA116 07.jpg

 

The greenery is actually brighter with light highlights than shown in the photos.  The next picture, from dead ahead, shows both sides.  Photos like these and closer ones were very helpful in judging the paint job and suggesting improvements.  The model went back and forth a few times for these.

 

YA116 08.jpg

 

The acrylic gouache used for painting the figures dries dead flat, causing an almost two dimensional appearance in the photos – especially in the close ups.  I may give these a coat of semi-gloss medium, perhaps the acrylic sanding sealer I used over the stern lettering.

 

Speaking of that, I received the second order of dry transfers, so I was able to correct the letters that were photo shopped in the last post.  The last picture shows the repaired letters – unadulterated.

 

YA116 09.jpg

 

This picture was taken before the final repair on the C.  After repair the dry transfer letters were given a coat of diluted sanding sealer.   I am also quite happy with the final black finish on the hull – shown in this picture.

 

With all this work done, the lower framing was given a last coat of wax, so the model should not have to be inverted again, I hope.  This will allow me to get on with work on the upper deck – cabins, etc.

 

Ed

 

 

eD;

 

Your bow- and stern decorations are so beautiful, a real treat to see

 

Nils

[EdT]

Thank you, all.

 

George, I have not used Sculpey, but I believe it is dried or cured in the oven.  I do not know if it an epoxy, but it may be.  I know it is commonly used, so others may comment.  Magic Sculpt is a two part epoxy sculpting material.  It hardens slowly over about 24 hours without heat.  This can be accelerated with warming, but it is usually better to let it cure at ambient conditions.  AS it begins to firm, it can be worked in different ways.  For example, it is often easier to indent eye sockets when the material is stiffer - especially if you have shaky hands as I do.  I did not utilize that on these figures.  They were all made in one go.  The material also responds well to moisture.  Wet brushing or rubbing can leave a silky finish.  I use the natural - grey green colored - type.  I have tried the white, but it works somewhat differently.  I have also tried other epoxy types - including Milliput, but found MagicSculpt to work best for me.

 

Here's a link:

 

http://www.magicsculp.com/

 

 

Ed

Edited April 6, 2015 by EdT

[GLakie]

Thanks Ed! Much appreciated! Always wondered if there was a difference between the two.

 

Cheers

[rwiederrich]

Ed...I agree with your segmentation......from Crothers description...Lady Liberty kinda straddles the demarcation line between the stem and siding(tough place to separate a woman).  As you did..it looks easier to place her entirety against the hull side then against the stem....Same with the eagle.  Never the less...your magicsculpt work is outstanding.  Being a wax worker..I did a similar work using wax carved in place to make my carvings..then lightly covered with an epoxy glaze to seal. That way I can easily follow the hull contours.

 

Very impressive work Ed...... Impressive.  Makes the model snap alive.

 

Rob

Edited April 6, 2015 by rwiederrich

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail

 

In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.

 

 

This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.

 

 

In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.

 

 

The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.

 

 

The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.

 

The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.

 

 

The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.

 

The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 

 

 

After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 

 

 

The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 

 

 

I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.

 

Ed

[GLakie]

More amazing work Ed! I especially loved those hooked scarph joints. Interlocking rail joinery!  Did you use some sort of jig for cutting those or was it done by hand and eye? They match from side to side really nice.

Edited April 12, 2015 by GLakie

[druxey]

Congratulations for arriving at this point in the build, Ed. She looks terrific.

[Piet]

Simply magnificent Ed.

 

Cheers - the silent admirer, 

[Mirabell61]

Masterly work Ed,

 

I`m so delighted by looking at this ship model every time I view your log  - WUNDERBAR-

 

Nils

[dgbot]

I echo the above comments.  Your joinery is amazing.

David B

[NenadM]

Another echo

[EdT]

Thank you all for these comments and all the "likes." 

 

To answer your question, George, the joints are cut by hand using a razor saw and a good quality barrette file - no fixtures and no high class machinery.  There are patterns for the poop deck transom and the stern section of the fancy rail to assure the correct curvature.  The margin plank was cut to fit.  The aft sections were made first with their hook scarph joints.  The joint on the next section at each side was then cut to fit that - by eye with marks.  This takes some care and attention to the grain direction, but I believe most modelers could mange this.  All is being described in the book in excruciating detail.

 

Just a word on the book: These last pictures show the model almost to the state that will be covered in Volume I.  We are working pretty hard to have this out by fall. 

 

Ed

[Maury S]

Ed, I can hardly wait for the book, but this hobby has forced me to understand "Patience".

Maury

[GLakie]

Thank's Ed! You can definitely count on me for a copy also. 

 

Cheers

[rwiederrich]

Ed..not sure you mentioned this earlier, but did the YA have single stick masts or composite masts?  From her images it appears they were not composite...but I could be wrong.

 

Rob

[EdT]

Rob, I have not starting thinking about masts yet, but from what I have seen so far, I believe at least the lower masts would have been made masts.

 

Ed

[rwiederrich]

Thanks for responding.....I'm looking forward to your technique when you come to making the lower masts.  By the way.....most outstanding Log....I will be getting the book too when it is finally in print

[Trussben]

Another book to buy!

[rwiederrich]

Yes, and I just ordered 5 books this last week.......

 

Rob

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 118 – Chain Pipes/Catheads/Topgallant Rail

 

Not a great deal of progress to report – just trying to get the model to the scope of volume I of the book.  The first picture shows the second chain pipe being inserted.  These reach down to the hold where the chain was stored.  From these openings the chain was run forward around the winch to the hawse holes.

 

 

In the next picture blanks for the catheads have been fitted.  The fancy rail is cut out where these pass through.  They will bolt through carlings on the inboard ends and into the framing at the side.

 

 

While sheaves were being cut into the catheads the pieces of the forecastle topgallant rail were cut, boiled and put into the fixture shown below to dry.

 

 

The rail will consist of a central bulwark plank with strips attached to the top on either side to simulate a thin top rail – much easier that to bend the 2” rail on its edge.  Sanding and painting make it look like a single rail – much like the multi-part rails along the sides.  In the next picture the rail has been assembled -  including short stanchions on the inside – and is being glued to the fancy rail.

 

 

Paint was scaped from the fancy rail for this.  The topgallant rail was then bolted through the pinholes, finish sanded and painted – as shown in the last picture.

 

 

This picture also shows the finished catheads installed – with their American plaque emblems painted on the ends.

 

Ed

[GLakie]

Beautiful work as always Ed! Love that rail-bending jig. Nice!

 

Cheers

[SailorGreg]

Your work continues to amaze me Ed. Beautiful and technically exquisite at the same time.

 

Out of interest, is your plank on bulkhead version keeping up with what we see here? I guess once you get to this stage of construction the build is pretty much as for the POF version.

 

Greg

[Mirabell61]

Lovely Ed, real lovely work,

 

I would spend quite some time only for looking at a fantastic model like this in a Museum if there were........

 

Nils

[dgbot]

A work of art.

David B

[SJSoane]

 

Ed,

 

These are very complex forms bending in three dimensions, and you make it all flow so smoothy. Beautiful work.

 

Mark

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone.  I appreciate the comments and "likes"

 

To answer your question, Greg, the 1:96 POB model has not reached the state of the framed model.  The picture below was taken a few days ago.  You are correct.  At a point after completion of the framing and deck structural work, the two models converged so virtually the same methods may be used on both to complete them.  You will note in the picture that bottom planking on the POB version has begun.  There is no bottom planking on the framed version.

 

The POB model was built from the beginning using similar methods to the framed model - such as upright construction, similar frame alignment  methods - but from different drawings.

 

 

Ed