Vincent Black Shadow by CDW - Revell - 1:12 Scale

[Egilman]

43 minutes ago, CDW said:

The glue/adhesive is dead underneath the film. 

Yep, it's completely hardened and has started flaking off the backing paper, usually this means that the film is cemented to the paper....

 

What I found is once the liquid film is applied let it dry for a full 24hrs, then, once cut out, allow them to soak for at least 6 hrs, let them float right off the old backing paper cause that is what they will do then apply them directly from the water they are floating in...

 

It works sometimes, other times it doesn't, but more often than not it does... But it is a roll of the dice...

 

Depending on who made the decals it could be a simple soap solution used as the glue, others would use a milk solution, it's the milk solution that seems to dry up and flake off over time...

 

Let me know if the cricut machine works in cutting the stencils that would be the best way to deal with it then paint them on... (I've been thinking about acquiring a stencil cutter)

[Egilman]

3 hours ago, CDW said:

Gold metallic colors. Not printer friendly.

Another suggestion, the gold will have to go down as a two step process, since there is no paint that will give the reflectance that the decal has...

 

Make two stencils one an outline for the gold portion, the other the black lines portion, make the outline stencil for the gold a hair smaller than the outline portion, apply the outline stencil and use bright gold RnB (Rub n Buff) to fill the gold area then use the line stencil over the RnB layer to finish it off....

 

That is if the cricut can cut that small...

 

It should give you the gold back decal perfectly... 

[CDW]

27 minutes ago, Egilman said:

What I found is once the liquid film is applied let it dry for a full 24hrs, then, once cut out, allow them to soak for at least 6 hrs, let them float right off the old backing paper cause that is what they will do then apply them directly from the water they are floating in...

Depending on who made the decals it could be a simple soap solution used as the glue, others would use a milk solution, it's the milk solution that seems to dry up and flake off over time...

Let me know if the cricut machine works in cutting the stencils that would be the best way to deal with it then paint them on... (I've been thinking about acquiring a stencil cutter)

Now that's something I never tried, letting the decals soak in water that long. It makes sense and surely is worth a try. It will be a while before I actually need the decals, just thinking ahead.

Decal sheet says, printed in Italy, so they could possibly be Cartograf.

I'll let you know how the Cricut adventure goes.

[shipman]

9 hours ago, CDW said:

Utilizing that helpful MFH spoke lacing diagram, I think I have the spacing sequence correct now. Making slow but steady progress in between “honey-do’s”.

You know the old saying, “happy wife, happy life”. 

 

Your spoke nipples are way too long, sorry.

[CDW]

13 hours ago, shipman said:

Your spoke nipples are way too long, sorry.

Hey, don't be sorry. Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder and I make no pretense of the fact that my model will be less than perfect. If I wanted/demanded closer to scale perfection, I would spend $600 for a Model Factory Hiro kit. Instead, I'll enjoy this old, much less costly Revell kit and dress it up a bit. Rivet counters may be disappointed but none ever visit my humble abode to peruse my model shelves anyway. I don't mind you criticizing my long nipples, just don't try to rub them.😄

Edited June 23, 2023 by CDW

[shipman]

''I don't mind you criticizing my long nipples, just don't try to rub them''

 

Just choked on y muffin LOL

[Javlin]

On 6/23/2023 at 7:41 AM, CDW said:

Rivet counters may be disappointed but none ever visit my humble abode to peruse my model shelves anyway.

That's me Craig once it hits the shelf beyond these pages no one will likely see it.

[CDW]

The bottles of Tamiya airbrush cleaner contain the exact same active ingredient as Tamiya thin cement. The airbrush cleaner contains 240 ml while the thin cement contains 40 ml. My supplier sells the airbrush cleaner for 7.29 per bottle while thin cement sells for 4.19. You can refill your thin cement bottle over 6 times with one bottle of airbrush cleaner. It all does the same thing only at a fraction of the cost. Just thought you might want to know how to save a few bucks.

[Egilman]

Extra thin is 51% acetone and 49% Butyl Acetate....

 

Their airbrush cleaner is either 50/50 Acetone/Acetate or 49/51% depending on whose MSDS you read.... 

 

So yes, they are essentially the same material...

 

And since the Airbrush cleaner is 55% cheaper than the Extra Thin.... you make your decision....

[Canute]

Great steer, Craig.

[CDW]

9 hours ago, Egilman said:

And since the Airbrush cleaner is 55% cheaper than the Extra Thin.... you make your decision....

Oh, it's way better than that. It's 4.19 per bottle (Tamiya thin cement) VS: 1.20 per bottle (when refilled using the Tamiya airbrush cleaner). It's less than 1/3 the cost.

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Canute said:

Great steer, Craig.

 

40 minutes ago, CDW said:

Oh, it's way better than that. It's 4.19 per bottle (Tamiya thin cement) VS: 1.20 per bottle (when refilled using the Tamiya airbrush cleaner). It's less than 1/3 the cost.

Yes Excellent Steer brother....

 

Thank you.... (it's sure a heck of a lot cheaper than Testors brand MEK as well)

[CDW]

Overall, I am satisfied with the way the rear wheel came out given it's a first try. Practice makes perfect and I've learned a few things giving this method a try. 

Will move on to other areas of construction and continue with the front wheel later.

[AJohnson]

That’s a huge improvement Craig, I’d say well worth it compared to the moulded spokes 👏

[lmagna]

I have done this as well for a couple of my 1/24 early Ferrari's, even though they were from kits you used to be able to buy. It is not easy to do even from a kit. Yours turned out great, congratulations. 

[Old Collingwood]

1 minute ago, lmagna said:

I have done this as well for a couple of my 1/24 early Ferrari's, even though they were from kits you used to be able to buy. It is not easy to do even from a kit. Yours turned out great, congratulations. 

Nice to  see you  Lou mate.

 

OC.

[CDW]

1 hour ago, lmagna said:

I have done this as well for a couple of my 1/24 early Ferrari's, even though they were from kits you used to be able to buy. It is not easy to do even from a kit. Yours turned out great, congratulations. 

Great to see/hear from you, Lou. 

I decided to give it a try after I saw an Asian modeler reveal his technique for it. Other methods had you building a jig and using a different type of flexible wire. While both methods had merit, the one I chose seemed the path of least resistance. The trick became sourcing the stainless-steel wire and aluminum tubing of sufficiently small gauge. I found that insect specimen pins came in a variety of small sizes from 5-0 all the way up and readily available on Amazon. The micro aluminum tubing I found from a hobby shop on Ebay. 

[Twokidsnosleep]

16 hours ago, CDW said:

Overall, I am satisfied with the way the rear wheel came out given it's a first try. Practice makes perfect and I've learned a few things giving this method a try. 

Will move on to other areas of construction and continue with the front wheel later.

Fan-freaking-tastico!

these look 10M times better

[popeye the sailor]

the bike rims look really good......gonna add to the detail for sure  

[yvesvidal]

On 6/28/2023 at 9:14 AM, CDW said:

 

Yes, it is worth the few hours you spent on that wheel. Incredible differences.

 

Yves

[CDW]

Cleaning up parts, painting, working on sub assemblies. The Black Shadow is mostly black. Imagine that. 🤣

 

[shipman]

They did do a 'White Shadow' which looked almost identical to the standard 'Rapide', but with the big 8'' instruments.

 

Here's some references; by picking out details lifts the looks.

[CDW]

On the top of each push rod is a large hex nut/cover. One at the rear side of the front cylinder looks like there is an oil line going to it. The kit does not provide this line but I can add it. Are these large hex covers for valve adjustment access?

Yes, there is a lot of color variation to be added before it's finished. Don't want to add some of this until I get a little further along in the assembly of it all. 

There are also prominent hex nut/covers on the gear box (starboard) and primary cover (port). I imagine one is for gear oil but what about the one on the primary cover? I'm assuming the engine had a primary chain and cover like the Harley Davidson but I'm assuming.

[CDW]

Son and grandsons were catching sharks today. Baby bull sharks? Not sure.

[Twokidsnosleep]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

On the top of each push rod is a large hex nut/cover. One at the rear side of the front cylinder looks like there is an oil line going to it. The kit does not provide this line but I can add it. Are these large hex covers for valve adjustment access?

Yes, there is a lot of color variation to be added before it's finished. Don't want to add some of this until I get a little further along in the assembly of it all. 

There are also prominent hex nut/covers on the gear box (starboard) and primary cover (port). I imagine one is for gear oil but what about the one on the primary cover? I'm assuming the engine had a primary chain and cover like the Harley Davidson but I'm assuming.

You HAVE to make the oil line loop. It is such an iconic feature of this engine

Have a look at my thread I posted, it is all in there. Pretty simple, a bit fiddly but doable with wire or solder.

For some excellent videos on a Vincent Rapide rebuild have a look at The Mighty Garage…he goes through the whole bike and even takes you for a spin or two. Quite enjoyable.

 

 

Edited July 6, 2023 by Twokidsnosleep

[shipman]

I believe the oil line referred to is actually a 'breather' pipe; not a standard fitting.

Many Vincents can be found with subtle owner additions/modifications.

The caps are indeed there to enable valve adjustment.

 

My pal has been out on his Black Shadow today, attending a VOC meeting.

He's a clever fellow and spent the winter converting the rear suspension to a more conventional configuration. I'll try and find a photo of that, but here is it as 'standard'.

 EDIT.

These are 3 different seat/suspension conversions of the same Black Shadow.

My pal, Chris has put a lot of effort developing suspension that is far superior to the standard set-up in every way.

His seat sub-frame, giving proper isolation from rear wheel movement.

His single seat version.

His 'conventional' twin shock suspension, utilizing a very rare genuine George Brown 'Nero' swing arm.

All produced during the last 12 months.

Edited July 11, 2023 by shipman
New stuff

[CDW]

14 hours ago, Twokidsnosleep said:

You HAVE to make the oil line loop. It is such an iconic feature of this engine

Have a look at my thread I posted, it is all in there. Pretty simple, a bit fiddly but doable with wire or solder.

For some excellent videos on a Vincent Rapide rebuild have a look at The Mighty Garage…he goes through the whole bike and even takes you for a spin or two. Quite enjoyable.

 

 

Those videos are addictive. Thanks for sharing the link. Informative.

[king derelict]

The spoked wheels are wonderful. A huge improvement

Alan

[CDW]

21 hours ago, king derelict said:

The spoked wheels are wonderful. A huge improvement

Alan

Thanks Allan. Glad to see you are back and hope you are doing well. I feel for you, out working long hours in this heat.

[Twokidsnosleep]

On 7/6/2023 at 3:14 PM, CDW said:

Son and grandsons were catching sharks today. Baby bull sharks? Not sure.

 

Ahh you are in Tampa, just saw the fishing pics. Such a gorgeous place.

Been to Clearwater area couple of times, blown away by the lovely shell beach, the architecture of the bridges such lovely water.

Will never forget being buzzed by a  huge pelican bird flying in overhead like a B52 bomber.

Those guys are huge!!!