michael mott Posted October 30, 2018 Author #1471 Posted October 30, 2018 (edited) This next sequence shows the rear bands being reshaped with the second die and using the vice and chuck to assist. After reshaping you can see the difference. the forward one has not been reshaped yet. When they were both shaped it took two tries to get them reassembled, the first attempt was well soldered but the bands were crooked to each other by just enough to be a problem. so a second re-soldering worked. After cleaning the assembly up a lot more the result looks good. Now to mate the front pieces and we are ready to put all this lot back together. As I mentioned earlier the saga continues. Michael Edited October 30, 2018 by michael mott add picture Dubz, cog, paulsutcliffe and 28 others 31 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
paulsutcliffe Posted October 30, 2018 #1472 Posted October 30, 2018 Excellent metal work Michael Regards Paul mtaylor and popeye the sailor 2 Quote The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48 Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48 Previous builds- Elidir - Thames steam barge Cutty Sark-Billings boats Wasa - billings boats Among others 😁
Jim T Posted October 31, 2018 #1473 Posted October 31, 2018 Nice work. I'm curious about the piece that the bands were silver soldered to. Was that piece machined as a single piece? You may have covered that earlier. I'm starting through your build thread, but am only up to about page 4. Jim mtaylor and popeye the sailor 2 Quote
michael mott Posted October 31, 2018 Author #1474 Posted October 31, 2018 Hi Jim, yes it was a solid piece that I machined. here is the result of the work this evening. I finished off the front clamping plates for the gooseneck and re rigged the mast, it took a while because i changed the mechanical advantage on the gaff by swapping out the pulleys. I changed the ropes that are in the dead eyes to a tan colour as well. next up is to finish the sliding canopy. Michael EdT, Captain Poison, cog and 21 others 24 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
paulsutcliffe Posted October 31, 2018 #1475 Posted October 31, 2018 Beautiful, I might have to try a larger scale small boat next, although the wife might not be to happy 😁 That brass work looks fantastic, are you leaving as brass colour or will it be blackened Regards Paul popeye the sailor, druxey and mtaylor 3 Quote The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48 Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48 Previous builds- Elidir - Thames steam barge Cutty Sark-Billings boats Wasa - billings boats Among others 😁
michael mott Posted October 31, 2018 Author #1476 Posted October 31, 2018 Good morning Paul I have not decided that yet, making it black implies that it would be iron. obviously if I leave it brass coloured it would imply bronze or brass and keeping it bright or just allowing it to patina naturally are also options. These questions lead to all those other questions which address the moment that one wants to capture with the model. The issue of do I weather it or not. It is a model of an imaginary cutter based on the fishing smacks and cutters of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, that has been adopted as a pleasure craft perhaps one that has been restored. I also want to sail it as a practical model in a simple way without all the complexity of radio control. Basically an elaborate pond yacht. At this point I am leaning more to just leaving it to age naturally. Michael popeye the sailor, mtaylor, PeteB and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
druxey Posted October 31, 2018 #1477 Posted October 31, 2018 That re-work is impressive, Michael. I have never seen a chuck used that way before, though! popeye the sailor and mtaylor 2 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv
michael mott Posted October 31, 2018 Author #1478 Posted October 31, 2018 Hi Druxey interesting that you mention the chuck being used that way. My Mill Drill uses a large crank to raise and lower the head which is heavy I had been using the Clarkson collet head to shape the steel and switched to the drill chuck to drill some holes. normally I would have put a solid bar of brass or steel into it to push down and use it to act as a hold down or punch. But closing the jaws accomplished the same task. I have used the same method many times on the lathe using the chuck in the lathe tailstock as a press of sorts. Michael druxey, mtaylor, popeye the sailor and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
michael mott Posted November 1, 2018 Author #1479 Posted November 1, 2018 Thanks for all the likes and visits. I put the rest of the canvas holding strips on today which meant making another 27 screws. then also the capture strips for the hatch itself a little bit of clean up on those tomorrow and then on to finishing the hatch boards or perhaps some doors. I really must get those other two glasses into the skylight. Also I had to un-jam the roller reefing gear which had locked up because there was some moisture that had gotten into the shaft which was ordinary drill rod and not stainless. It was easy enough to polish up the shaft once it was taken apart. Michael ccoyle, BANYAN, usedtosail and 17 others 20 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
BANYAN Posted November 1, 2018 #1480 Posted November 1, 2018 I'll have to visit this log more often; Druxey keeps beating me to the superlatives That IS some impressive metal work Michael. I like your idea of just letting it gain a natural patina; but, as always, the final decision is yours. cheers Pat mtaylor, popeye the sailor and druxey 3 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)
amateur Posted November 1, 2018 #1481 Posted November 1, 2018 I keep telling myself "no this in't a 1:1 ship" I still don't believe myself Jan michael mott, Jack12477, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote
michael mott Posted November 1, 2018 Author #1482 Posted November 1, 2018 6 hours ago, SpyGlass said: The other comment I have is that your roller reefing is identical to a couple of vessels I sailed on - ( keep your reef strops out of the cog!) I have a question for you then, I am considering what type of fixing method to use on the boom, John Leather in his book "the Gaff Rig" talks about the Americans tended to use a rail fixed to the spar with small blocks to provide a smaller element to lace the foot lacing rather than wrapping it around the boom. While the English used a foot rope in a groove or slides in or on a track. What was your experience? Thanks to all for your kind comments, I am really enjoying the working on the cutter again. Michael popeye the sailor 1 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
michael mott Posted November 1, 2018 Author #1483 Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) 36 minutes ago, SpyGlass said: I would hate to speak heresy but why did you go for a roller ? They could be quite difficult in use ,I preferred standard reef points with maybe a set of lazyjacks I am pretty sure that I modeled the roller reefing from the cutter Carlotta. I chose the roller reefing because I thought it looked neat, this is a model and i am not having to deal with the vagaries of actually having to reef. In real life 1:1 my preference is for a loose footed sail anyway, that way the sail can more easily take the airfoil shape all the way to the boom. I have just finished making a rail like the one on Carlotta from a strip of old growth fir with rings that are less than a 1/32nd apart. I did not take any pictures while using the table saw. I will have some later. Michael Edited November 1, 2018 by michael mott adding a link mtaylor, BANYAN and popeye the sailor 3 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
Mark Pearse Posted November 1, 2018 #1484 Posted November 1, 2018 Hi Michael, I hope you don't mind some more comments on aspects of this discussion: Roller reefing isn't hard to use, & it does allow more shades of adjustment (eg: to balance the rig) than reefing points. I don't think lazyjacks are possible, I think it means the topping lift goes to a rotatable fitting at the boom tip. I'd just add that you can still adjust the aerofoil shape of a gaff main without a loose foot - the luff tension & also the peak halyard will both have an effect. Mark mtaylor and popeye the sailor 2 Quote completed 1:12 28' Ranger type yacht, scratch build - COMPLETED 1:12 20' 1930 open sailing boat, half model, scratch built - COMPLETED 1:12 24' Ranger type yacht, scratch build
Kurt Johnson Posted November 1, 2018 #1485 Posted November 1, 2018 Michael, I can’t wait to see the case you’ll make for her. It’s gonna look great in your living room. Kurt mtaylor, paulsutcliffe and popeye the sailor 3 Quote Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
michael mott Posted November 2, 2018 Author #1486 Posted November 2, 2018 Mark thanks for your thoughts and you are correct of course, I would still contend that it is easier on a small craft with a loose foot though. Kurt I'm not sure about that case....more of an alcove I think, it certainly wont fit on top of the piano. I did do a couple of experiments before heading off to a meeting this evening I need to shape the cut outs of the rail that will attach to the top of the boom. The first picture the rail is just resting on top of the boom, I cut out the slots on the table saw. The second shows the first attempts at shaping the opening using my Mini Mill. That's all for now. Michael hexnut, shipmodel, davec and 15 others 18 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
mtaylor Posted November 3, 2018 #1487 Posted November 3, 2018 On 10/31/2018 at 10:50 PM, michael mott said: I really must get those other two glasses into the skylight. Also I had to un-jam the roller reefing gear which had locked up because there was some moisture that had gotten into the shaft which was ordinary drill rod and not stainless. It was easy enough to polish up the shaft once it was taken apart. Michael Michael, Have you considered using car wax on the shafts? Since she'll be sailing, I hope you can prevent the rusting. popeye the sailor 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
michael mott Posted November 3, 2018 Author #1488 Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) Hello Mark I think that I will be OK on the roller reefing, I had not used any lubricant at all when I first put it together. I worked on the rail for the top of the boom today. After yesterday's dodgy try out with the mini mill I opted for a more tranquil method and made up a shaped sanding stick it was a much faster and safer option. this rail is 36 inches long and only 5/32" by 1/4" in cross section. I used the big mill vice to do the clamping. I had to change the paper once it is 220 grit. Next up was to file down the end of the boom to fit the rolling main sheet fixture. I used one of the drafting templates as a guide for getting the end reduced and round. the next shot is fuzzy but shows the end fitting in progress the rod in the center is 1/8th diameter with some surplus 3/8 sealed ball races slipped into a 3/8 hole bored into the end of the boom with a forstner bit guided by a collar jig. then a brass retaining collar to keep the wood together sort of like a chisel ferrule. The rod spins like a top. Michael Edited November 3, 2018 by michael mott spelling correction mtaylor, shipmodel, paulsutcliffe and 15 others 18 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
michael mott Posted November 3, 2018 Author #1489 Posted November 3, 2018 I decided on not using the ball races they were a bit over the top. So inserted and fixed a brass plug and used a retainer plate to hold the end collar on there is enough clearance that the collar rotated smoothly. Off to the year end party at the yacht club. Michael DORIS, paulsutcliffe, realworkingsailor and 18 others 21 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
druxey Posted November 4, 2018 #1490 Posted November 4, 2018 That is one heck of a comb cleat! Well done. popeye the sailor, PeteB, Jack12477 and 1 other 4 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv
SJSoane Posted November 4, 2018 #1491 Posted November 4, 2018 Hi Michael, I am just catching up on your log after some time away. I am very impressed by your willingness to rework things until they meet your very high standards. A lesson for us all. A quick question regarding the rail on the boom. Were you using the sanding block on a rail previously roughed out on the mill, or was that a new rail shaped entirely with a sanding block? If so, how did you index the slots? Great work! Mark paulsutcliffe, mtaylor and popeye the sailor 3 Quote Current build: HMS Bellona 74, ca. 1760, 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/196-hms-bellona-by-sjsoane-scale-164-1760-as-designed/
Kurt Johnson Posted November 5, 2018 #1492 Posted November 5, 2018 Michael, I may have missed it in this build, but is this jewel ever supposed to come in contact with water? Do you sail these models? Kurt mtaylor, popeye the sailor and paulsutcliffe 3 Quote Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
michael mott Posted November 5, 2018 Author #1493 Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Good afternoon Mark in answer to you question I though a simple sketch might help with my answer. After cutting the strip that was to become the comb I switched over to the sled on the saw. beginning with the right hand end of the strip I set the strip over about 5/8th of an inch (I just guessed the distance) and having the blade set high enough to cut about 3/32 depth I made the first cut. Then made incremental cuts net to it until I had cut approximately 1/4 inch slot. then I penciled a line on the sled at "a" Next I moved the comb again to the right until the edge of the slot was approximately 3/8th of a inch further to the right and marked another line "b" started the cutting all over again until the next slot lined up with line "a" indexed it to line "b" and so on. It was slow but worked well and my fingers were tired from all the gripping. There was minimal break out or fuzz on the exit side of the comb because of the support on the fence of the sled. The blade is new and I am very happy with it's performance The blade is an HSS N/F SAW 200 D x 1.2 K x 5/8 B A-Toothform 180 teeth. I had it custom made at ALL BLADES CANADA INC for $82.91 Canadian. it is basically a slitting saw 8 inches in diameter with 180 teeth I cannot cut through thick wood because it heats up too much and warps, but when I use it with a zero clearance insert and cut up to 1/4 it gives a glass smooth finish. I hope this helps answer your question. Kurt, yes the intention is to sail her here is a picture of the water test some time back, there was 66lbs of lead ballast in her with still 2 inches to go to get to the waterline. so I will need to use the trolley when I launch her to sail. I have struggled with the whole radio control issue but have decided to free sail her like the old pond yachts. I am not going to sail her a lot just enough to know that she sails. Michael indexing comb cleat.pdf Edited November 5, 2018 by michael mott spelling druxey, G.L., BANYAN and 12 others 15 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
Kurt Johnson Posted November 5, 2018 #1494 Posted November 5, 2018 Mike, You have to put a Gopro or something her when you do!!! Kurt mtaylor and popeye the sailor 2 Quote Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
SJSoane Posted November 6, 2018 #1495 Posted November 6, 2018 Thanks, Michael, very clever! popeye the sailor and mtaylor 2 Quote Current build: HMS Bellona 74, ca. 1760, 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/196-hms-bellona-by-sjsoane-scale-164-1760-as-designed/
michael mott Posted November 6, 2018 Author #1496 Posted November 6, 2018 I mounted all the screw in the comb cleat today. 31#1 roundhead screws were converted to oval head of .085" diameter with a .062 body. I used some card double sided taped to the mill vice jaws to clamp the boom. I used a beveled burr by hand to form the countersink. Michael PeteB, Siggi52, EdT and 15 others 18 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
Mark Pearse Posted November 7, 2018 #1497 Posted November 7, 2018 lovely work; the fine attention to detail makes it difficult to see what the actual size is. Mark mtaylor, Jack12477 and popeye the sailor 3 Quote completed 1:12 28' Ranger type yacht, scratch build - COMPLETED 1:12 20' 1930 open sailing boat, half model, scratch built - COMPLETED 1:12 24' Ranger type yacht, scratch build
Jim T Posted November 7, 2018 #1498 Posted November 7, 2018 2 hours ago, michael mott said: I mounted all the screw in the comb cleat today. 31#1 roundhead screws were converted to oval head of .085" diameter with a .062 body. Michael Nice work Michael. Would it be possible for you to elaborate on how you converted #1 RH screws to Oval Head? Jim popeye the sailor and paulsutcliffe 2 Quote
michael mott Posted November 7, 2018 Author #1499 Posted November 7, 2018 Hi Jim, in the morning I will do a step by step sequence of pictures. Michael Jim T, popeye the sailor, Jack12477 and 1 other 4 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
druxey Posted November 7, 2018 #1500 Posted November 7, 2018 Nice. I approve of your lining up the screw slots so nicely! michael mott, PeteB, paulsutcliffe and 3 others 6 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv
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