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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Looking at your photos JP I think she is going to turn out just fine once the bulwarks are planked, I see a very attractive model developing. Regards, B.E.
  2. A new adventure starts, I wish you much enjoyment of your new project JP. Regards, B.E.
  3. Anchor Buoys are tricky little beggars to make and rig, and those look really good Mike. I hope I can achieve similar when I get around to doing them. Cheers, B.E.
  4. Very nice work Vitus, and what a wonderful decorative effect you have achieved on the planking. Regards, B.E.
  5. Great stuff hamilton, the masts look good for scale and I think your modified Quarter galleries are a real improvement. Loving the look of her. Cheers, B.E.
  6. That is amazing work Ian, if I could produce a stove like that, (in my dreams) I'm not sure I could bear to hide it away. I think I would have to display it outside of the model, and fit a less detailed version on the ship. Great stuff B.E.
  7. What an amazing insight you must have to presume knowledge of what we "OTHERS" have regarding understanding or otherwise the differences between 18th century shipbuilding practice and the offerings provided by kit manufacturers. I think you will find that many of us fully appreciate the shortcomings in kit design, and not just relating to Victory. B.E.
  8. Hi JP as a bit of inspiration, here's a couple of examples of Victory models depicting her in pre great repair days. Firstly the stern of Victory in a model by Wyllie in the Portsmouth Naval Museum. Secondly, detail from a conversion of the Heller Victory by an excellent modeller, Michael D whose log is on my home forum. But remember it's not just the stern gallery that differed on the pre 1803 Victory, the Figurehead was also significantly more ornate. Michael modelled the Figure detail in Fimo from the details of the model figurehead also in the Naval Museum Portsmouth. Food for thought eh? Cheers, B.E.
  9. Hi JP The stern of Victory was enclosed in the great refit of 1803, and she looked at Trafalgar much as she looks today, with the exception of the absence of the Prince of Wales feathers. This is confirmed by the drawing made by Livesay on her return after Trafalgar in 1806. The Pocock painting (your bottom right) an extract from Nelsons Ships has a fair amount of artistic licence, but the earlier painting by Swaine in 1793 shows her with the open galleries. If you intend to model her as at Trafalgar then if your kit follows her current stern you will not be too far out. B.E.
  10. "a little self serving" Andy, isn't that what you've been all about of late, and pretty damn good at it as well. I shall be looking to you for tips when I start in earnest. Cheers, B.E.
  11. I'm with Daniel, don't go there, ca makes a mess of copper plates and needs to be removed from the surface asap to avoid marring the surface, particularly if you want the copper to take on a natural patina over time. Any residue will show up. B.E.
  12. Whalers are great subjects with interesting fittings and I like the look of your Morgan John, a fine job on the copper tape. I imagine as hard worked ships they are a good candidate for a bit of weathering if you choose to go down that route. Cheers, B.E.
  13. Neatly done Andy, looking good, are you leaving the shroud seizings natural? Love the Bowsprit attachments, very tidy work, anyone would think you were a sailor with ropework like that. B.E.
  14. It must be very frustrating not to be getting the satisfaction from a build time after time, also for those who get interested in following a build only to find it abruptly ends. This one did look interesting and you look to produce a very nice finish to your work Arjan, I do hope you find a project that sustains your interest thro' to completion. B.E.
  15. Very nicely done Frank, a great paint job, love the detail you've picked out, particularly on the shirts. B.E.
  16. Nicely done on the Bowsprit rigging hamilton Re the lanterns: for kit provided stuff they don't look bad for style and six sided is good for the period, presumably they are solid metal? The real thing would probably have been made of metal but painted to represent wood, so you could paint it a sort of yellow ochrery colour to tone in with the model. The glazed areas could be painted appropriately and perhaps finished in a high gloss to reflect light. I am currently trying trying to make something of the Pegasus lantern and I am using the Caldercraft 1:72 Victory stern lanterns.They come in three sizes and if you wanted to go for etch rather than solid the smaller ones may fit the bill. The main central lantern is 23mm h x12mm dia. the two side lanterns are 21mm h x11mm d. and theTop lantern is 16mm h x 8.5mm d. The down side is they are somewhat out of period being Octagonal in shape. Just a thought . B.E.
  17. Neat job Ray, and at least some of the Top and Butt on the Upper deck is still visible. Regards, B.E.
  18. An interesting project Kriss, I think I'm going to like your approach to it. At 1:150 scale most detail can be included, full rigging, even the side tackles to the guns can be simulated. Helps if you've got young eyes and nimble fingers tho' The finished model size fits easily in a domestic setting and even when cased is not too obtrusive, it is a scale I've great affection for. Look forward to following your progress. Cheers, B.E.
  19. Hi Ferit, I've looked at contemporary models and many of the drawings of ship of the period by the Van de Velde's and they all seem to have enclosed channels. The great authority on the subject is Dr R.C. Anderson who writes in his book The Rigging of Ships In the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600 - 1720. - Deadeyes in the period 1650 - 1720 (and afterwards) were set in slots on the outer edge of the channels and covering strips were nailed over them. This appears to answer your question, but if you like the look of the exposed strops, then you could leave them off for demonstration purposes. Afterall they were only battens nailed on the edge of the channel. Regards, B.E.
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