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Everything posted by Canute
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Another option may be Model Monkey on Shapeways. He does both US and British 32 pound carronades in your scale, although they are 1805 designs. Here's a link: https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey/1-16-1-200-scales
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Very nice joinery, Mario. And a clear explanation. Follow the doctor/therapist's orders. Getting one's major joints repaired/replaced is a bear, but when the exercises are done correctly, no one will ever know you had the work done. I've had a hip replacement, but have no evidence other than a scar you know where.
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Any brand name plastic cement for styrene should work, like Tamiya or Testors. The Tamiya flashes off quickly, so parts should be in place when applied. The Testors has more working time, since it's thicker. Just be careful of any of it oozing from a joint. Wash the parts before assembly to remove mold release agents. Wipe the model off to remove plastic dust and finger oils after assembly with denatured alcohol. Prime with a good quality primer paint, such as Tamiya Fine primer. You can paint with hobby enamels or acrylics. See what your local hobby shop carries(if you are fortunate enough to have one nearby). Good luck
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Looking good; I'll sign on to this build.
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Great work there, Piet. It'll be a fitting memorial. Getting effective water in a diorama is hard work, especially ocean water.
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There is also so embossed paper sheets of brick stock that MicroMark pedals. Mark, the firebox looks good. You need to dirty it up, to give it a used look.
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Aha! Those thingamabobs on those turrets are the optical rangefinder covers. Those were Plan B. If the ship's internal fire control systems went down and they had to use local control, these gave them firing info in the turret (ranges, elevations and bearings). They didn't fire their guns via open sights.
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Your case looks great, Mike. I love the base parquetry. Excellent display for the Cromwell.
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I find when working on the fine details that I need a lot more breaks for the old Mark 1, Mod 1 eyeballs (me wearing glasses). I try to stop before I get cross-eyed. And no such thing as too much light. The bench lighting even gets augmented with a quartz halogen floor lamp aka mini-sun.
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One place I'm a happy customer of is UMM-USA. They cater to the armor and aircraft modelers, but good tools are universal. Check their site: http://www.umm-usa.com/ At the least, you'll get an idea of tools you "might" need.
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Piet, make sure any and all holes in your base molding are sealed. Those epoxy "waters" will find the holes and you'll pour it onto your floor. We found that out years back, doing exactly that for a wharf scene on a model railroad. Java is looking great.
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Jack, I'm in on this build. Can always feel the need for speed. Rounding off the bolt heads to approximate carriage bolts shouldn't be too difficult.
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Black wire for eye bolts/rings
Canute replied to Johnnyreg's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, so the copper and brass blackeners should work on either. Aluminum and pot metals would use different agents. Like Mark said, Liver of Sulfur is one agent. You could also use blackeners from JAX. -
Great USNA Lecture Video: The Navy in the Civil War
Canute replied to uss frolick's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thanks for the link, frolick -
Piet, I "liked" your account only because of the effort you've made working through the loss of your father in combat. I salute your efforts to memorialize the bravery your father and his crew exhibited against such odds. I've been reading, Cox and the sources he cites in his book. The heroism of the men who slowed the Japanese juggernaut should never be forgotten.
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