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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Nice, Eddie. You'll have to hitch up some beasties to haul it around. Darn near big enough to ride on.
  2. Greg, you'll want to gloss coat the planes. Decals like smooth surfaces. The spray can Testors product is OK, as is Pledge with Future, an acrylic floor wax. It's spray-able for thinner coats. Apply with an airbrush. I use the Microscale red and blue products to put the decals on. They work well with our thinner film decals. There are a few other products out there that are stronger, but you only would use them on thicker film decals. And don't panic if the decals look like they shriveled up on you. Let them dry and they will self level. If you do get silvering (whitish spots under the decal film), just put a drop or two of the setting solution on the spot(s) and let it dry. You may want to put slits in the decal film to get the solution under the film before reapplying the stuff.
  3. I'd be careful with bleach straight out of the bottle; it's a strong caustic. We kill most germs known to man with a ten percent solution. Splashing pure bleach on cloth will eat holes. Stop a caustic with some acidic solution. And do it under a hood or outside.
  4. Jesse, glad to see you back at it. Guess you're feeling a bit better. Lots of good looking gun tackle there.
  5. Greg, your build is magnificent. The weathering - you hit that out of the park! I am blown away.
  6. How visible is the finished area? Main decks (very visible), I'll bet you redo with appropriate woods. Lower down, probably leave it. But, like Patrick said, wait for that clear head before you do anything. Hope that beer was good and you let your problem cogitate in the ol brain juices. However you decide will be the correct one.
  7. Some of the hobby primers, such as Tamiya, go on pretty thin. They are formulated with finer pigments, to keep them lighter. And it comes in rattle cans, too. Here in the US we also have Scalecoat, which is solvent based. It comes in rattle cans, too. It's a finely pigmented lacquer base. You'd have to find a local shop catering to model railroaders for Scalecoat. Many shops don't stock it, since mostly the hard core prototype modelers use it. I like it because the final colors dry to a gloss. Very helpful for decaling.
  8. Elijah, I'd like to follow along, too. It's good to encourage our younger brethren in this hobby. You're off to a good start.
  9. Dan, great to read your logs again. Glad your treatments are done. I'll follow along, too.
  10. Hang in there with your build, Jesse. You have a lot of friends with you in their thoughts and prayers.
  11. Elijah, your backdrop works just fine. In fact, it blocks out distractions and your closeups are excellent. Very nice work.
  12. Jesse, your health is job one right now. Syren will be there when you're ready. There's a bunch of us thinking about you and praying for your recovery.
  13. Well done on your base, Jack. Nifty little diorama. I'll have to keep that in mind. Like Mark said, didn't know you can get miniature seashells.
  14. Nicely done Frank. And good clear explanations, too. Like Mark says, that table is interesting.
  15. Dan, I'll tag along, too. You might check the Shapeways folks. The warships guys have done up some of the early US dreadnoughts with those lattice masts. Don't know if any liner folks have done up drawings for the Shapeways folks to print up, but I've seen those battleship lattice masts and they are sweet.
  16. Dan, welcome. Will be interested in seeing your Egyptian build.
  17. Here in the US, we call them T nuts. A good, sturdy mount you've made, Chris. Nice job, so far.
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