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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Canute
    What Jack said. Most definitely worth it. Floquil is/was good paint, with good coverage. Since bean counters run most corporations nowadays, they have to cut costs anywhere they can. Testors dropped the line because it was probably smaller than the aircraft/armor colors market. I went to acrylics.
  2. Canute
    Jack, you're probably right on the original buyout date. I remember Floquil in the square bottles, from Imre/Risley or some such. Testors still makes solvent paints in their ModelMaster line. I'm trying to wean myself off the organic solvent paints.
  3. Canute
    Do a very thorough mix & don't shake it. If you have one of those little battery powered stirrers, use it. The Floquil you have is an enamel., so use a good solvent thinner. If you want to spray it, run it thru some filters to get any lumps out. I store my solvent paints upside down. Floquil was bought by Testors some years back and has been folded into the Testors line. Probably affected model railroaders the most, but with the changeover to acrylic paints, it's not too bad. One of their online magazines (Model Railroad Hobbyist) published a booklet to cross reference the old Floquil/Polyscale paints with Vallejo and Modelflex acrylics. You have to sign up to get to that booklet, but it's free.
  4. Canute
    Greg, very well done, mate. Love the detail work. I'll try to sit quietly waiting your next build.
  5. Canute
    Join your local library. Mine has a lot of those titles, the rest they get through a statewide tracking system. And they notify by phone or email. Neptune's Inferno was very good. It struck me as a knife fight at night, in a phone booth.
  6. Canute
    I'm off to Colonial Williamsburg, in Virginia. It's a reproduction of the city as it was around the times of the American War for Independence. They do very authentic work, so I'll get some pictures at the wagon-makers shop. It's most likely a bit early for your Butterfield stage, Eddie, but can't be too far off.
  7. Canute
    Nice, Eddie. You'll have to hitch up some beasties to haul it around. Darn near big enough to ride on.
  8. Canute
    Greg, you'll want to gloss coat the planes. Decals like smooth surfaces. The spray can Testors product is OK, as is Pledge with Future, an acrylic floor wax. It's spray-able for thinner coats. Apply with an airbrush. I use the Microscale red and blue products to put the decals on. They work well with our thinner film decals. There are a few other products out there that are stronger, but you only would use them on thicker film decals. And don't panic if the decals look like they shriveled up on you. Let them dry and they will self level. If you do get silvering (whitish spots under the decal film), just put a drop or two of the setting solution on the spot(s) and let it dry. You may want to put slits in the decal film to get the solution under the film before reapplying the stuff.
  9. Canute
    I'd be careful with bleach straight out of the bottle; it's a strong caustic. We kill most germs known to man with a ten percent solution. Splashing pure bleach on cloth will eat holes. Stop a caustic with some acidic solution. And do it under a hood or outside.
  10. Canute
    Jesse, glad to see you back at it. Guess you're feeling a bit better. Lots of good looking gun tackle there.
  11. Canute
    Greg, your build is magnificent. The weathering - you hit that out of the park! I am blown away.
  12. Canute
    How visible is the finished area? Main decks (very visible), I'll bet you redo with appropriate woods. Lower down, probably leave it. But, like Patrick said, wait for that clear head before you do anything. Hope that beer was good and you let your problem cogitate in the ol brain juices. However you decide will be the correct one.
  13. Canute
    Some of the hobby primers, such as Tamiya, go on pretty thin. They are formulated with finer pigments, to keep them lighter. And it comes in rattle cans, too. Here in the US we also have Scalecoat, which is solvent based. It comes in rattle cans, too. It's a finely pigmented lacquer base. You'd have to find a local shop catering to model railroaders for Scalecoat. Many shops don't stock it, since mostly the hard core prototype modelers use it. I like it because the final colors dry to a gloss. Very helpful for decaling.
  14. Canute
    Tom,s is still in business. Different owner.
  15. Canute
    Elijah, I'd like to follow along, too. It's good to encourage our younger brethren in this hobby. You're off to a good start.
  16. Canute
    Same for me. R.I.P. USS Thresher
  17. Canute
    Dan, great to read your logs again. Glad your treatments are done. I'll follow along, too.
  18. Canute
    Hang in there with your build, Jesse. You have a lot of friends with you in their thoughts and prayers.
  19. Canute
    Sounds good, Len. The American Civil War is an area of interest to me. I have one of these in my stash, too.
  20. Canute
    Well done, Len. Looks like she was worked hard.
  21. Canute
    Like the lad says, me too. Interesting semi-kit.
  22. Canute
    Elijah, your backdrop works just fine. In fact, it blocks out distractions and your closeups are excellent. Very nice work.
  23. Canute
    Nice work on the base. Pretty job.
  24. Canute
    Jesse, your health is job one right now. Syren will be there when you're ready. There's a bunch of us thinking about you and praying for your recovery.
  25. Canute
    Well done on your base, Jack. Nifty little diorama. I'll have to keep that in mind. Like Mark said, didn't know you can get miniature seashells.

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