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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Like Mark says, Bondo Spot putty. They have several formulas, as I recall, so read the label and get one for metalwork. I have some orange label Bondo for plastics and it's a good filler. However, wear gloves and a good mask, since the stuff is loaded with VOCs. Work outside or with good ventilation.
  2. Jack, coming along nicely. The deck looks great. And yeah, a few touch ups, but we all do them. Darn crisp, clean closeup photos. I've been working on some Z scale (1/220) structures for a diorama at my club and my brush work is the pits, in places. Good thing they're going into a dimly lit space.
  3. If it was sheet plastic bricks, with brick faces and grout lines, a gray paint wash would work. Apply and wipe off the face of the bricks quickly, leaving the paint in the joints only. With real (scale) bricks, you might try a spackling/joint compound, used on drywall. Color it a medium or darker gray. You'd have to force it into the joints or try to actually fasten the bricks with the mortar. As you build up the brick floor, attach the bricks to the brass, leaving enough room between the bricks, for the "mortar".
  4. Brian, you could do the same with a piece of sandpaper under the steel straight edge. Set if back from the edge, so you can cut against it and also draw lines, holding a pen against it.The wee space prevents wicking the ink/paint under the edge.
  5. Jim, as a once upon a time AF Navigator/Weapons Systems Officer, using celestial navigation was a required subject. I am fascinated with your build. I need to find one of that quality. Thanks for sharing.
  6. Most of the casemate boats of both sides had little or no armor on their roofs. They armored the casemate sides and pilot houses to keep shot from other armored boats out. Some of the later riverine Union ships, like Chillicothe and Indianola, had deck armor of an inch. Not much stuck above the casemate besides the pilothouse, stacks and maybe the tops of the paddlewheel boxes. Reading accounts of the engagements along the Mississippi, some boats had to break off engagements due to the stacks getting riddled and the boilers no longer being able to get a good draft.
  7. Max, my deep condolences. Be strong. Hobbies can wait.
  8. I would think rectangular bricks mortared in the pan would be appropriate. The brick would insulate the stove from the pan and hence the ship's decking.
  9. I'll second Mark's recommendation. The CA will make the clear plastic craze. The canopy cement is white as applied; it will dry clear. I think this canopy cement is a thickened white glue; just don't mess with it until it dries.
  10. The PE makes those davits pop, Greg. Time consuming work, but with what you've already done, you have to keep it up. Great build.
  11. Pat, I've got Choctaw on hold until I can cut the cardstock into cleaner circles. Right now they look like stop signs and such. The rounded casements will look good, if I can cut them out better. The paddle wheel boxes are too jagged, so I have to redo them.
  12. Dings and splits would be appropriate in the wood. Just don't get too carried away. Check out this Pan Pastels link: http://www.modelingcolors.com/ I like them because when you over-spray, they remain in place and don't fade. Most other chalks & powders do.
  13. Jack, I've made this solution, but don't remember how long it took to turn into a staining mixture. No more than a week, I seem to remember.
  14. Stain the wood a weathered light gray and let dry. Dab rubber cement in spots on the hull and then paint over the whole hull in your next color. When that dries pop the rubber cement off the hull and you should have bare spots and peeling paint. Used it on some structures; works good.
  15. Try replacing the battery? Some of us need the bigger numbers.
  16. Brian, I'd go hide under the bed until tomorrow or maybe Friday. You're burning up all your good stuff at an alarming rate. As an old squadron CO of mine used to say, one "aw, s***" wipes out all previous good stuff. You do'd it, bud.
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