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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. The red ochre was probably a bit on the dark side. Nothing really bright. Likewise with the white, either a dull creamy color or something with a slight greyish hue. I like using artist's acrylics that can gotten at crafts stores for under a dollar. And they last for a while. I can use them right out of the bottle mixing as needed with water to thin them, or I can spread some on a pallet and mix with other colors to get what I need. Russ
  2. Mark: The hull really looks good. Nice work and thanks for sharing. Russ
  3. The Lumberyard is a very good wood supplier and they do make a limited number of kits. However, the Alfred and others based on Harold Hahn's plans are NOT kits. They are timbering packages that the modeler can use to cut out the frames etc to build the model. The Lumberyard kits contain laser cut frames while their timbering packages do not. They laser cut some material for the timbering packages, but the actual frames. You will need tools to cut the frames in the timbering packages while with the kits, they are already cut. Russ
  4. She originally had a mix of 18s and 12s on her spar deck. When she first put to sea she had a total of 60 guns, according a contemporary description from one of her midshipmen. Russ
  5. A lot will depend on if it is a simple bend or if there is any twist. A bend might be corrected, but a twist is VERY difficult to work around. Russ
  6. Mike: If the warp is just very subtle, then it might be straightened out. However, I question whether or not you can really get the warp out at all. Plywood is very fussy that way. Good luck. Russ
  7. Very nice work on your fighting top. The planking looks excellent. Good solution on the border piece. Russ
  8. The fighting top looks very good. Nice work. I am not sure what to tell you about the trestle trees. I would have made a new set to fit the mast, but you managed to get them fitted well enough. Nice job . Russ
  9. Ken: The planking looks better than you think. As always, practice will help improve the results. Any modelers of any experience can learn something new. As for the size of the planks, consider using wider sheets from which you can cut spiled planks. A 3 inch wide sheet will yield a good many planks with very little waste. Russ
  10. The paint job looks very clean and crisp. A good paint job really takes some time. Nice work. Russ
  11. So far your model looks very good. Nice work. Deck planks were about 15-20 ft in length with no breaks between hatches etc. Russ
  12. Pat: If you want to rig it, I would go with Lees or Steel. They are the two best authorities I know of. Maybe Lever might provide a better illustration, but it really covers a later time period. It is your choice though. Russ
  13. Your deadeye and chainplate assemblies look pretty good. I am dealing with this right now on my build and it gets a bit fussy to be sure. Your chainplates are about as flat as can be. They will lay on top of the surface of the hull. So long as they are anchored into the hull with a couple of fastenings, you will be good to go. One thing to watch is the orientation of the deadeye. The lower deadeye has to have the bottom eye down and the upper deadeye has to have the top eye up. Russ
  14. Andy: I suspect they counted a glue joint of some kind. Or perhaps they simply did not think it was important for the model. Chances are, most modelers would just make it fit with a shim of something. Russ
  15. Andy: It is called a "Fid". And, yes it should be there. Russ
  16. So far so good. Your framing looks like it lines up well. Good idea to check the alignment with the deck. Russ
  17. Kenneth: Your sanding tool looks like it has been very effective. Nice work on the quarter deck planking. Russ
  18. If the bulkheads are solid basswood, breakage of the stanchions is quite common. No real defect here except that basswood is prone to break in these situations. I even had a few break on my current scratch built project. I could have used plywood, but it is harder to work. Russ
  19. The dotted line is the outside bevel at the bottom. The second line down from the top is the inboard bevel for the top. You can make up a bending jig based on that curved line they show you. Match the centerline on the plan with the centerline of the actual transom and then use heat and/or moisture to bend the pieces slightly to match that curve. Russ
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