Jump to content

Chuck

Administrators
  • Posts

    9,374
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Ok the first chapter is now available for download so you guys can get started. This should keep you guys busy for a while. I will now try and catch up with making blocks and rope and more laser cut packages. Let me know if you guys have any questions on the first chapter. At 26 pages, by the time this project is completed we will be looking at several hundred pages of instructional material. In just a couple of days we have had over 50 people sign up for access to the plans and join the project. I would love to see more build logs set up for those who intend to build her. As I cant be on every forum with so much production work to do. I would appreciate if you could create a topic and maybe announce that this project has been started on other forums you belong to. Maybe even comment on facebook as well. I would love to get the word out there and any help you can give would HUGE!!!! Thanks in advance. Chuck
  2. Download the chapters below. New chapters will be added as I complete the work on the prototype. Chapterone.pdf- Chapter One
  3. That is correct. You could probably squeeze them into 7 but it all depends on how you lay them parts out. So 8 would do it comfortably. When I laser cut them I use 7 sheets but they are packed together tightly.
  4. You are very welcome. I hope you will build her and start a build log. Chuck
  5. The trade off is that only the lite ply can be used for laser cutting. That is what you will get when you buy the laser cut package. BUT, the Birch is actually better and stronger and leaves a nice clean edge without splintering. Laser cutters cant cut through the Birch ply at all, especially at 1/4" thick. The glue layers are too tough. So if you dont mind sanding the birch stuff, that is the best way to go. But man-oh-man it is tough to sand when you fair the hull. Especially inboard. And this model has a lot of bulkheads.
  6. I will let everyone know when the bulkhead sets are back in stock.
  7. Thats a big boy..... Enjoy the project. I am outsourcing the laser cut bulkhead sets so I just ordered some more. When they arrive I will list them as in stock. Chuck
  8. The laser cut package for the first chapter is now in stock. I should have the second chapter also in stock by Sunday, but maybe even tomorrow. Keep in mind that in some laser cut packages you will also get some milled Cedar stripwood. If there arent that many needed I will just include them in the laser kit for that chapter. So buying this 1st installment you will get everything you need to finish the skeletal framing of the hull other than the Ply bulkheads. This should get everyone up and running quickly. The 2nd installment will not have any stripwood......its all basically hull planking for the exterior of the hull. You will need to mill those yourself. I will let you know if any stripwood is included when I release each installment and it will also be mentioned on your chapter checklist for materials. All laser cut parts and other fittings can be bought here at Syren Ship Model Company. Chuck
  9. Yes you will need a small hobby table saw like the Proxxon or Byrnes saw. If you plan on continuing with the hobby it will be the best investment you make if scratch building is in your future.
  10. Great...that is all I need to know Jean-Paul. And by the way, I should have the first installment of laser cut parts available by this evening and in stock. Ten sets. I do also have one set of bulkheads which I will list in my store as I await the next batch. I should have the second installment of laser parts in stock by Monday. Chuck
  11. Great....remember that for any planking you will need to buy the 2" sheets on my site. BUT for all other parts like cutting out your stem and keel parts or stern frames, you should get the wider sheets. Chuck
  12. Awesome.....Remember the laser cut parts will only be made in Yellow cedar or Cherry. So if you think you might need them for some of the more difficult fittings or parts, I suggest you stick with those woods. Although Boxwood would work too as any Cedar fittings would blend right in. Chuck
  13. We have had about 20 people sign up.....but only a few have started their build logs. As I said before, it would be a HUGE help if you guys who joined would start your build logs. I realize there are a lot of plans collectors out there....but please, if you plan on actually building the model, can you start your build logs and let me know if you plan on using any of the laser cut parts during the build. I dont have a lot of time in the shop for production with many things to laser cut. It would seriously help me out knowing how many sets I need to cut. And remember, do not pass these plans along to other builders after you sign up. These are for your own personal use ONLY. That wouldnt be in the spirit of the project. I have already had one request for parts from someone who hasnt signed up but said he was given the plans. That isnt good. Its taking advantage of the spirit of the project. Its only $15 for crying out loud!!! I cant catch a break.
  14. Plus there will always be some laser cut parts and other materials available should you need them. If you are being cautious about it I would jump in and use the Yellow Cedar as your wood choice just so you can get those if you need to.
  15. Its on the list!!! But arent you guys had enough of the cross sections? I mean its been done to death. There are some forums that have these groups already with more than one Cross section. It gets a little old .... But if there is sufficient interest. I think I can create one that is better than any of those and maybe a little different. But its going to be quite a while.
  16. It would be very similar yes. When time permits I will put something together. But that is at least a year away. The model is too big to rig in my opinion though. It would be about 5 feet long and just as high.
  17. any kind would work but that is some tough stuff. Think about how annoying it would be to fair inboard with that. Its absolutely stronger than other ply so its better to prevent the extensions from breaking. That said, I used the poplar light ply they offer. Its easier to sand, but splinters on the edges. So you have to fix that before painting. Its a trade-off.
  18. Check this out.....inspiration and help as you build the project. I have more of these and will be adding them as time permits.
  19. Like everyone else, I cut my sheets from larger billets of wood. Below you can see one of the these "bricks" of yellow cedar lumber. It is a 2 x 6 that has been cut to 15" long segments. In that same photo you can see a very large 1/4" sheet that was cut from the side of the brick. It is pristine with no visible grain and the surface quality is beautiful which is what you want in a sheet of wood. On top of that 5 1/2" wide sheet is a 2" wide smaller sheet literally cut from the same brick shown. It was cut from the top of the brick instead. Notice the ugly grain pattern that is quite evident and if you were to get this sheet you would not be a happy camper.....BUT When I rip planking strips from a 1/4" thick sheet of wood, I dont want to use that wider sheet. The useable visible face of each plank would have the ugly side showing when you used it on your model. You would absolutely see the grain and it would probably not bend the same way......so I actually use the two inch wide boards to cut all of my planking strips from. I keep a steady supply on hand and even use wipe on poly on a portion of the "good" edge that will become the planking you see on the hull. This makes it easier to pick wood that is the same color so all of the planks will match on your hull. See the photo below which shows a portion of my 2" wide planking stock ready for milling. Whenever I cut the planking strips for a project they are cut from these 2" wide pieces rather than the really wide sheets. Its the proper way to rip planking strips. I know that most people do the math in their head and figure they will get many more strips from the wide sheet sold at Syren....BUT...it will have a really noticeable negative impact on a well-planked hull. You should buy these 2" sheets rather than get the really nice wider sheets when you need planking strips. Most may be surprised and disappointed when they get the narrower boards until of coarse they start ripping strips from them which will be pristine and beautiful as you can see below. I can get 20 strips 3/64" thick from each of these with a blade that has a .30 kerf....I hope this was helpful and insightful to those of you who might not be familiar with this or may be thinking of getting a Byrnes saw to mill your own planking strips. I will call these " Planking Sheets" for milling planking strips in my online store. So when you see in the materials list a requirement for stripwood.....buy the "planking sheets" from my store. CLICK HERE They are just $3 each. For every thickness. But remember....these are only good for ripping planking strips. For everything else you want the wider sheets instead.
  20. Welcome to the group Tim. Look over those plans and the materials list and let me know if you have any questions.
×
×
  • Create New...