gjdale

Yeah, great catch there Michael, and even better recovery. Looking good!

Thanks Patrick - now that you mention it, I do recall seeing that discussion. Hopefully this will answer Sailor's question.

Wow folks! Thank you all so very much for all your lovely comments (and all the "likes"). I feel quite humbled seeing so many congratulations. To be honest, it's the support and encouragement from all the folks here that has enabled to get to this point - a point that I am very pleased to be at, and feeling kinda proud too. I actually moved the ship out of the shipyard today, to a temporary home elsewhere in the house - where she is less likely to get damaged while I'm working on the ship's boats. I won't fill up the log with individual thank you's - please take them as read as I really do appreciate your support. To answer a couple of specific queries though: Keith (TMC) - yes, the Cutters are clinker built. I have a cunning plan............ John (Texxn5) and Ben - you both asked what's next? Well, there is just a small matter of the ship's boats to finish... "Next" is a closely guarded secret for now. You'll just have to wait and see. Sailor - a good question about keeping the seas out around the Entry Port. I will admit to having absolutely no idea of the answer to that one. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than I would like to answer. I'll wager Blue Ensign will be able to steer you right on this one. A little bit of preparation and research today, and the afternoon spent in the "big" workshop assembling some of my recent acquisitions (new toys, er, I mean tools). A little more prep and setting to work tomorrow and then it's on with the ship's boats. Thanks again everyone for all the support.

Nice looking rear end there Rusty!

In this final series of shots, I wanted to show some views of the Launch on the skid beams. I fitted a couple of eye-bolts to the keelson of the boat and attached the lifting gear, to show the boat in the process of being readied for launching. I haven't yet tied off the tackle falls, in case I change my mind about this, or some of you have better ideas for this aspect. This last shot shows quite clearly the Fore course sheet and the Main course tack passing through their respective hull sheave blocks. And that's your lot for now. Hopefully it won't be too long before I start posting progress on the remaining boats.

This series of photos shows some close-ups of the rigging. I wanted to try to capture some of the "busy-ness" of it all, especially under the tops and around the forecastle.

In this, and the next two posts, I'll show some overall progress shots. I decided that to celebrate the occasion of completing the rigging, it was time to try and take some decent photos. So I bought some sheets of light blue cardboard from the local art supply shop (having read somewhere here that light blue provides the best background for ship photos), and made up a temporary photo booth. Of course before I could do that, I had to completely clear off and clean the shipyard table too (an added bonus)! I experimented a bit with camera settings, so the quality varies a bit, but here goes;

Hi all, Thanks again for all the kind words and also for all the "likes". It's been a while since I've updated the log, partly because I haven't been home much, and partly because progress shots of rigging gets pretty monotonous after a while. Anyway, the big news is, that having had the Easter weekend plus a few extra days of purely "me time", the rigging is at last complete! Doin' the Happy Dance! But of course it wasn't all plain sailing to get there. As we know, there have been a few modifications to the kit instructions, plans and parts required along the way. So this post will show a couple of these, and then I've got a ton of photos of the completed rigging that I'll post in separate posts shortly. That should keep you know who happy for at least a week! First up, the Spiders. These are metal straps that hold the block for the aft end of the Main course sheets. The kit supplied parts were made of a soft and brittle metal that basically crumbled as soon as I tried to insert a block in the looped end. No real drama here. After some earlier experience in making deadeye straps, the process was basically the same. Form the shape with some brass wire, silver solder, blacken and there you go. Here's a pic showing my two home made versions on the left versus what remains of one of the kit ones (the other was in several pieces): Next up, the Clue/Sheet/Tack block arrangement for both Main and Fore courses. A relatively simple arrangement, though I decided to add shoulders to the Clue blocks. You can see these in the photo. The more observant of you will note that the shoulders are at the wrong end of the block! Doh! No problem, I fixed this before final fitting. As I was studying the plans and reading the equivalent section in Longridge, I realised that the kit had taken a major shortcut, that had I realised, I could have fixed easily during the hull construction stage. Fixing it at three-quarters of the way through the rigging stage proved a little more challenging. I am referring to the through-hull sheave blocks for the Main course tack and the Fore course sheet. The kit directions would have you simply drill a hole in the ships side and poke a line through. Not good enough! says I. Making up the sheave blocks was fairly simple - I made these up in a gang, using some scrap timber and some brass rod for the sheaves themselves: So how do you insert these into a completed hull, with lots of rigging already in place? Well, you just start hacking away don't you? What could possibly go wrong? To be honest, I thought long and hard before I started this round of surgery. Even after I made up the sheave blocks, I almost chickened out. But then I remembered the stern re-build and how well that turned out. So on I went. First step was drilling a series of holes around the outline of where the sheave block would fit: Then it was time to hack into it with a small key-hole type saw in the Exacto: About now, you're probably thinking "he's nuts!" - yep, so was I........ But a little further work with a file, and it's not looking so bad: Then it's fit the sheave blocks into their new home: A touch of filler around the outside, and a lick of paint and it's done! The lead for the Main course Sheet through the Quaterdeck bulwark is supposed to be through a lead lined hole, but the kit again just indicates the hole... This was a simple fix by cutting a piece of brass tube and blackening, then inserting in the hole. No photos of this in progress, but you might be able to pick it out in the following posts. The next three posts will show in order: some overall shots of progress to date, some close ups of the rigging, and some close ups of the launch in place on the skid beams. I'm well satisfied with my "long" weekend's work. I still have to make up eleventy gazillion rope coils (and yes, that's the right number - I counted them ), make up some anchors, fit the quarter davits, and make some more boats. I've decided that I'll make a Pinnace to join the Launch on the skid beams, and two Sea Cutters to hang from the quarter davits. I think that boat making will be the next task - it will be nice to be making sawdust again instead of macrame!

Great work with the airbrush Kevin. Hey, it's Easter - aren't you supposed to be going back to your Vicky now?

Those molding panels look superb Mike - well done! Your tiller is also very nicely done.

Those last two shots from head on are pretty impressive Slog. Beautiful lines to this beast. Nice job so far.

Well done Sjors. You see, when Mobbsie sends you "around the buoy", it usually means you end up with a better outcome.

Sean, I'm not an expert, but I went with yellow ochre. I honestly can't remember what the actual ship has (and I was on board her just last Sep!). If you post this question separately (outside of your build log) you may get more answers from the other more knowledgeable folk here.

Well, the practice ones looked pretty darn good Sjors! Can't wait to see the real ones.

Thanks Ed for the extra info on the wax/turps "formula" - I had a feeling it was going to be somewhat imprecise. You obviously know when it "looks" about right - another sign of the master craftsman at work!

Looks like a really interesting kit Michael. Think I'll pull up a chair and follow along. You seem to be off to a great start.

David, LoS is easily found online. Here is one such link. https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/63353887/liver-of-sulphur-gel-2-oz-great-for?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing_promoted_en_au&utm_campaign=supplies_low

Hi Mark, I've just finished reading your log from start to finish and just have to say what a fine build you have made. Congratulations on some truly excellent work. I've also picked up more than a few ideas for my current and future builds. Thanks for sharing all your techniques, tests and trials.

Sweet!

Well done on achieving a major milestone Sean. You'll really feel good once you sand the filler back and see the final hull shape emerge.

Fantastic as always Ed. Thanks for sharing your test information on finishes, really interesting. You may have mentioned before, so I apologise if I'm asking what's already been answered, but when you use the beeswax/turpentine mixture, what is the ratio or "formula" that you use?

Very nice Kevin. The deck looks great.

Very nicely done Mike. Isn't it wonderful to work with some quality timber?

Looks like you're having way too much fun there Slog! Those laser cut bulkheads look like the duck's guts - very nice indeed.

Spyglass, I'm sure Danny will give you some great advice as he always does, but in the meantime, to debond CA, you need to use acetone (not IPA - that's for PVA glue). If you soak some paper towel in acetone, apply it to the joint and cover it with plastic wrap (to slow the evaporation), that may help the penetration. Give it about 10 minutes, then slowly work a thin blade into the joint. You may need to continue/repeat several times. The only issue you run may into with plywood is delamination of the ply itself if you dissolve the glue between layers, so tread carefully and take your time.