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Everything posted by rdsaplala
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Hi Ben Thanks for dropping by, as well as the kind words, I appreciate it With your excellent work on Echo and Confederacy, I'm sure you'll do a wonderful job on your next scratchbuild project I'm pleased to know you're drafting some plans for the US Brig Eagle, I once saw some line drawings of a certain US Brig Eagle, circa 1814, and I was amazed at her slick lines.
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Splendid work, Mitsuaki, she's looking great!
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Hi David, Just catching up with your build, she's coming along nicely, I will follow with interest
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Wow! you build fast, Nils, I really envy you, I started my work almost a year ago and I've only gotten as far as planking the outside of the hull. Very nice details there, she's looking great.
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Thanks for the good word, Mark With regards to the "bump", it appears that the aft bulkheads I made using the "as proposed draught" have addressed this, based on the relatively fair run of these temporary battens: Since the body plan of the "as built draught" I'm currently using are basically spot on with the "as proposed draught" that I previously used, the new bulkheads I'm drawing will hopefully also create a fair hull, but I'll know for sure once I build up the new hull... I'm keeping my fingers crossed
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Very nice work so far, Dave, she's coming along beautifully With regards to your questions on the deck planking, I checked the 1/48 upper deck planking drawing on my TFFM II and noted the following dimensions (reduce these to 75% for you kit's 1/64 scale): Width of King/Central Plank and the three planks immediately on each side of it=7mm Width of the rest of the planks outboard of the above 7planks=6mm (except for the 4 outermost planks, which are arranged in top and butt fashion) Plank length is variable, about 120mm on the average Planking appears to be 3-butt shift (three planks in between parallel butts) Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the good word, Grant, just a dozen more bulkheads to go, and the workshop will see some action once more My previous plan was to purchase a copy of Steel and perhaps the applicable establishments/ specifications to get the scantlings for redrawing all the fittings... lately however, I started to feel that drawing is just not as fun as building, so I decided that I will just remake the centerboard and bulkheads from the NMM Draughts, but use the rest of the provided plans for everything else... I guess I'm too lazy to go the whole hog after all
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Hello Nils, This is a very interesting project you're working on, I will follow with great interest
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Time for some update, I'm still fiddling around with the computer doing my CAD-work, progress is slow as I am a "dinosaur" with almost zero knowledge on computer stuff Anyway, I've been applying the principles I learned regarding Admiralty draughts and identifying and correcting distortions. One important fact is that Admiralty draughts almost always have distortion due to the relative instability as well as the age of these materials. It's just a matter of determining how much distortion these may have. Distortion has many forms but the ones I find easiest to catch are horizontal and vertical distortions. The severity of horizontal distortions may be determined by measuring "10 foot sections" in fore-, midship, and aft-portions of the draught's scale ( the ruler-like drawing beneath the profile drawing). In the case of the 1/48 Triton draught, here are the measurements: Fore-portion=63.5mm Midship portion=63.7mm Aft portion=63.5mm I proceeded further to measure the rest of the "10-foot" sections along the length of the scale and I've found that the length variation ranged from 0.1 to 0.2mm. This basically gives a very small horizontal distortion of only about 0.16 to 0.32% in the draught. The amount of vertical distortion may be determined by checking the depth in hold of the ship, again, the NMM Triton Draught seems to have very minimal vertical distortion. So, with very minimal distortions, it appears that I may yet get away with a direct trace of the lines instead of having to do some tedious redrafting I did notice a slight issue, and that is the the top-timber heights of each specific section in the profile does not match the top-timber height of its corresponding section in the body plan :mellow: Taking the foremost station V as an example, it can be seen that top timber height of V in the body plan (red line) is greater than its height in the profile (see below) Top-timber height of Section V in body plan Top-timber height of V on the profile: This however is a minor issue, as based on my correspondence with Druxey on the Swan Class draught, I have learned that there is an easy fix to this difference in the top-timber heights between the profile and body plans (thanks for the help on that matter, Druxey ) This is solved in two ways, one method is to use the top-timber heights on the body plan to create a new top timber height on the profile, and the second approach is to nudge the sections in the body plan so that their top-timber heights follow that on the profile. I decided to use the second approach of following the top-timber heights in the profile since I will be using this profile for taking off all my vertical measurements I also had another pleasant finding when I placed the 1/48 NMM Draught alongside the MSW 1/48 profile and deck plans: As seen in the above picture, the overall length (red lines) and mast positions (blue lines) of the MSW inboard profile very closely match those of the NMM draught. Furthermore, a side by side comparison of the NMM Draught with the MSW deck plan in the picture below shows that their mast positions also perfecty match. The same is true for the positions of the deck fittings. Conclusion, it would appear that even if I make a new centerboard and bulkheads from the NMM draughts, I could still use majority of the MSW plans do determine the dimensions and placement of my fittings thereby saving me a lot of work Lastly, I have already made some patterns for my deck camber and started work on drawing my bulkheads, so far, I've already completed 2 so I only about a dozen more to go
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Beautiful rigging and masting work as always, Peter, the mast looks good as new after your repair
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Thanks, Grant, I'm still stuck to the computer doing some drawings, the good thing is that I am able to sneak some CAD-work while on break at the work place
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Stunning work on the cannons, Danny, and thanks for sharing your jigs and techniques at mass producing them, simply ingenious
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Hi Grant, That is one mighty fine looking boat, Sir, truly an amazing job my friend, and excellent choice of wood too, everything looks crisp
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Stunning work, Mobbsie, bow and stern details, guns and fitting all look top-notch as always
- 1,279 replies
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- agamemnon
- caldercraft
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Beautiful work, Sjors, simply beautiful!
- 1,873 replies
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- occre
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Thanks, Andy, I'm currently glued to the computer redrafting some new bulkheads for my Triton so it may be a while before my workshop sees some fresh sawdust. Very nice and clean serving work, Andy,based on this excellent job, I can predict that you'll master this new technique in no time
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Top notch work as always, Ray, the coppering and quartergalleries look fantastic! Edit: Oh my, I think I need new glasses as I have somehow missed the others' posts, Happy Happy Birthday, Ray, this calls for some champagne!
- 536 replies
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- diana
- caldercraft
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Hi Augie, All I can say is Wow! Nothing beats the feeling of tying off that last bit of rigging, this calls for some champagne! Splendid job on the anchors too, they're a vast improvement over the original
- 1,668 replies
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- syren
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Top-notch rigging work Augie, she sure looks more and more beautiful with each added line
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