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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Tigersteve
    I really don't know. I would say test on some scrap strips but I don't know how accurate that test would be. If it were my ship I would sand it until it's very smooth and pretty consistent color. You might not need more stain. If you plan to finish it with Wipe on Poly, even that finish will make the colors in the wood pop darker. Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    Another Syren build to follow. Sure, I'm in. Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    Pre-stain prepares the wood to accept an even coat of stain, hopefully avoiding blotchy spots. I agree you should keep your expectations high. There's no reason to settle for anything less. Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    Looking nice and clean. I like the presentation you're preparing. Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    It's coming along, Rich. This one looks difficult to plank. I'm assuming you're not planning to paint if you're going for a second layer? Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    I forgot to mention that using pre-stain will help before staining next time. Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    The planking looks good. As for the stain- just do some sanding and it should lighten it. Steve
  8. Tigersteve
    Looks fantastic! Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    I had similar thinking on the decorative transom casting. I will be redesigning it as well. You're moving right along. Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Somehow I missed this build. Looks good. Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    Thank you BE and Michael. I think being part of MSW increases all our skill levels. Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    Thanks, Ryland. It's pretty difficult. Maybe more so than Chuck's longboat. Steve
  13. Tigersteve
    It looks awesome. I'm sure you'll make a quick recovery. Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    Halfway through hull planking. It's not as seamless as desired. I decided to check the remaining space at the stern. My initial measurements did not show a need for tapering. This is incorrect. Next steps will be to line off the hull towards the stern for the remaining five planks on each side. Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    Fantastic, Chris. Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Take your time, Mike. It's going to turn out great. Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    I agree with Jim. Email John Garcia and Marc Mosko from Model Expo that photo. This reflects so poorly on their company. It's unfortunate. Even if you decide to rebuild with other materials. Still email that photo. Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    Yikes! That should glue right up. Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    Ken, It's looking great. Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    Fantastic work! Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    Glad you're back. Steve
  22. Tigersteve
    That's looking good. I can't wait to complete the outer hull planking! Steve
  23. Tigersteve
    Thank you for the nice comments and likes! Let's talk about the stern for a moment. As we know, a 90 degree twist is needed to get the plank to conform to the shape of the hull. What's also needed is a slight edge-bend towards the keel to get the plank to butt up against the previously laid plank. That's the easy part. Bending and shaping the plank at the bow is done first. Here are the steps: 1. Create a severe edge-bend using dry heat and let the plank cool completely. 2. Hold the plank to the previously laid plank and note where to snip off the excess. 3. Sand the edge of the plank smooth and at a slight angle to fit into the rabbet. 4. Mark the first few bulkhead locations onto the plank to form the taper. 5. Bend and twist the plank and dry fit into the rabbet for a tight fit. 6. Clamp the entire plank to the hull and add heat. (Steps 5 and 6 are done several times until the plank fits properly.) The plank is then glued. This process takes a while and is not easy. None of these strategies are new. This is just the way I've applied what I learned from other modeler's logs and methods. Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    Nice work so far. Steve
  25. Tigersteve
    I'll follow too. Steve

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