tlevine

Thanks for the comments and the likes.  The wale has been painted and the decorative strip applied.  The wale has five coats of very dilute artist's acrylic paint.  The strip was painted before installing on the hull.  The steps were installed next.  They are not shown on the plan so I placed them where they are located on the model.  The profile of the step was made with a scraper and the ends were shaped with files and sandpaper.  The step overlying the wale will be painted black.  Sorry for the sawdust between the steps.

At this point I ran into a problem that I have not completely resolved.  When you look at the bow section of the plan, you can see that the bowsprit is lashed to a stem head.  There is a little decorative carving on it but most importantly, it appears to be rotated to starboard and the lower end of the stem head protrudes into the stem.  Also, the stem rises above the rail.  These are the reasons I initially decided that the bowsprit exits the ship on the port side of the stem.  When I lined everything up, nothing made sense.  The stem would need to be cut back severely on the port side to accommodate the bowsprit and the leading edge of the stem would need to flare  because of the rotated stem head.  The plan shows that there is no flare.  The three photos help illustrate the problem.

I did a search of all sloops plans in the RMG built between 1750 and 1820.  There was not a single one with the configuration shown on the plans.  The closest I found was Weazle 1799, built twenty years after Swallow but also built at Dover.  On this ship, the top of the stem is shorter and the stem head does not show any rotation.  My guts tell me to place it in the midline but I am willing to hear anyone's opinion on this.

The barrel is made up from four smaller pieces of wood because at the scale at which I am building (1:16), a piece of wood 7/8 inch sq. would have been required.  I started by chucking it up in the lathe and turning it down to the maximum diameter of 13 inches.  Once that was done, I drew lines to note the changes in diameter.  In the first picture you can see extra length at both ends of the blank.  In the second one, the extra length is only at the chuck, not the live center.  I discarded that part because I discovered that I could not mill the piece without support on both ends.

I started at the bottom of the spindle.  You can see the 11.25 and 13 inch sections have been completed and I am working on the 11 inch section.  The 11.25 inch section will be a gasket, preventing the whelps from rubbing against the capstan step.  After all, we want this capstan to be able to turn when completed.

The spindle was removed from the lathe and mounted on the mill.  I kept the spindle in the four-jaw chuck and screwed the chuck into the rotary table.  I had to Rube-Goldberg the other end for support and to keep it level.  In this case, the live center is held in the mill vise.  This was raised above the bed as required.  It was easy enough to hold the vise in one hand while moving the bed with the other.  Once one face was completed, the table was turned 18 degrees and the next face was milled until completed.  Next, the square head was milled and the piece was removed.  The supporting wood was cut off both ends and the lower thirteen inch section was removed with a razor saw.  This piece will become the retaining pin to secure the barrel to the step.

Excellent suggestion, Druxey.

Trial fit the hatch and capstan step onto the deck assembly.

The step has been temporarily installed onto the deck.  You can see the half-lapped joint in the red circle. 

The hatch is next.  In contrast to the intermediate version, the head ledges and coamings are joined with a locking half-lap joint.  This prevents the corners from pulling away from each other.  I could not find any easy way of making the joints.  The best advise that I can give is to make everything oversized and, once you are happy with the joints, sand the pieces down to their final height and length.  

After the hatch has been assembled, glue in the rabbet (hopefully doing a better job than I did).  The sides of the hatch are vertical for the lower four inches. Above that, as shown by the red line, the outside surface tapers inward by one-half inch.  I used a sanding block to obtain the final shape.  Chamfer the top edges and the corners down to the level of the deck.  Grating was discussed in the intermediate version. 

Despite what is expected by a large number of people, information is not free.  Academic journals and most professional journals require a paid subscription to access published information.  In fact, I would not trust the content of any free access journal.  Those journals are called throwaways for a reason.  

I was unhappy with the appearance of the upper hull planking.  As was pointed out to me by Druxey, the decorative strip would have been applied on top of the planking, not between the planks.  They were also too wide.  The next two pictures show the planking before the last row of hull planking was installed.

I removed all of the upper planking and the decorative molding.  Instead of four rows of planking, there are five.  Much better.

The bowsprit step and riding bits were made next.  The bowsprit is offset on this ship, which is why the step is to the port-side of midline.  The size and location of the riding bitt was taken from the plan.  The primary wood is castello and the aft strip is pear for contrast.  Nothing will be glued down until all of the exterior work is completed.

As mentioned earlier, I built the hatch coamings too short.  These have all been remade and the gratings installed.  I will not glue the gratin down over the hatches to allow one to see the lower deck.  The steam vent (in front of the fore hatch) is glued down.  In the middle photo you can appreciate the height difference.

At this point I noticed a problem.  Even though the holly I use is several years old, a crack started to develop between the main hatch and the ladderway.  Part of the problem was insufficient support for the deck because this was built plank on bulkhead without a subdeck.  I gave the deck more support by installing a "beam" just aft of the main mast.  This was accomplished by inserting the wood through the ladderway and holding is secure until dry.  I could not get a clamp with a deep enough throat to fit through the opening.  That part of the deck was resanded and the result is seen in the second picture.  Big improvement.  

Was there any doubt that your hole locations would be perfect?  Certainly, none on my part!

The intermediate capstan project only requires the saw.  The only other powered tool I used was a Dremel to make that.

The advanced capstan project assumes the builder has access to a lathe and mill in addition to a hobby-size table saw.  A lot of the steps are similar or identical to the intermediate project and will not be repeated.  

The deck beams and carlings are made first.  Unlike the intermediate version, "proper" mortice and tenon construction was used.  My preference is using a chisel to make these but they can also be done on a mill.  The end result will look identical to the intermediate version.

The capstan step is comprised of three planks with half-lapped joints.  The center plank is thicker and inserts between the beams.  I added this as a separate piece.

This shows the step glued up, the hole for the barrel and various bolt holes have been drilled.  I would recommend not drilling the bolt holes until later in the build, as described in the monograph.  All sharp edges have been rounded off.

It may simply be the pictures, Dan, but I think you still have too much of a "smiley face" in that lower batten.

Kurt is right in the reason for the different scale.  In putting the plan set together, I choose the largest scale that would fit on standard printer paper.  The occasional 1:1 drawings are for clarity.  The best advise is to choose your scale and then derive a table of dimensions for that scale.  Build from the dimensions, not from the drawings per se.  The one part for which a template comes in handy is the whelp.

Now it is time to put everything together.  Glue the step onto the deck assembly and insert the bolts.  Temporarily install the capstan onto its step.  Position the brakes to their free ends fit between the whelps and the bolted ends are on the beams.  Remove the capstan, drill holes for the brakes and install them, making sure they can rotate.  Install the hatch and its grating.  Insert the bolts into the chocks and whelps.  Finally place the capstan back on the step and insert the retaining pin below the step, making sure the capstan can turn.  Install the drumhead onto the capstan barrel and insert the bars into the holes.  

I hope some of you will give this project a try.  In a few weeks, I will start the build log for the advanced capstan project.

Oops.  I meant table saw.  We will change the PDF.  Thanks.  Once I had the wood dimensioned with the JimSaw and the JimThicknessSander, I used a Preac for everything.

The cap is glued to the top of the upper drumhead.  The edge is rounded over prior to installation.  The iron ring is actually made from paper painted with black marker.  Before gluing the iron ring onto the drumhead, make sure the ink is color-fast with whatever finish you plan to use.  In this case, I used an archival marker and Watco's Danish Wood Oil Natural.  These pictures are taken before applying the finish.

The holes have been drilled for the bolts, eyebolts and pins.  Use a pin to prick the iron ring before drilling to prevent tear out.  The bolts are brass pins that were filed flat.  In these pictures, the finish has been applied.  The color contrast of the various wood species stands out now.

The eyebolts, capstan bar pins and chain have been installed.  The bar pins go all the way through the drumhead, securing the capstan bars during use.

There are six capstan bars. The picture shows the sequence of construction from left to right.  Cut the capstan bar blanks from square stock.  Using a razor saw, cut in the shoulder.  The part of the bar that inserts into the drumhead was removed with a chisel.  The bars were then tapered and the edges rounded off.  The hole for the swifter was drilled next.  Finally, insert the bar into the drumhead. Drill the hole for the bar pin by drilling through the previously drilled hole in the drumhead. 

I use 3M 45 spray adhesive.  Think of it as contact cement in a rattle can.  I remove the residual glue with a razor blade.  Just be sure to use it outside.

The last step is to shape the chocks.  The upper chocks are convex and the lower ones are concave.  This is actually the capstan barrel from the advanced version but they are done the same way.

The next part to build is the drumhead.  Again, this is simplified to allow use of only hand tools.  There are five wood components to the drumhead:  two upper drumhead halves, two lower drumhead halves and the cap.  Other components include the iron ring, and miscellaneous bolts, ringbolts, pins and chain.  The two halves for the upper and lower drumheads are glued together.  They will be oriented 90 degrees to each other when the drumhead is assembled.  Draw the drumhead on the wood, using the glue line as the center point.  A compass works best for this.  I used a jeweler's saw to cut out the drumheads.

This capstan has openings in the drumhead for six capstan bars.  Mark the location for the bars on both parts, taking care that they line up with each other.  Using a razor saw, the outer edges of the slots were cut.  The rest of the wood was removed with a chisel.

The square top of the barrel fits into the lower drumhead.  Mark this opening on the lower drumhead and cut it out.  The easiest way to do this is to drill a hole just large enough to allow the blade from the jeweler's saw through it.  Detach the blade from one side of the saw, thread the blade through the hole, re-attach the blade to the saw, tension the blade, and cut the opening.  

Glue the two halves together, remembering to align them at 90 degrees to each other.  Clean up the openings for the bars.  Now that the two halves are glued up, finish sand the perimeter.

It is time to glue the whelps onto the recessed wedges on the spindle.  After the assembly has dried, sand the top and bottom flush.  Test fit the upper and lower parts of the spindle but do not glue them yet.  The next two pictures are before and after sanding.  The wedge design makes it difficult to misalign the whelps.

Slide the chocks onto the whelps.  You can see how much extra material I have protruding from the barrel.

Just for fun, put everything together that has been completed.  To allow the capstan to turn without rubbing against the step, I have placed a gasket on the spindle just below the whelps.

Five whelps are required.  In real life, the whelp became wider from top to bottom.  For simplicity, these whelps are the same width throughout.  The picture shows the sequence of construction.  I glued a template of the whelp onto the blank.  Using a razor saw, the outer face was cut out.  The whelps were then glued together and the top and bottom sanded to ensure they were the same height.  I also used this as the opportunity to mark the locations of the chocks and drill the bolt holes.  The glue was dissolved in isopropanol.  A bevel was sanded into the back of the whelp to fit against the recessed barrel wedges.  Cuts were made for the top of the mortices and a chisel was used to remove the wood from the mortice.

There are two sizes of chocks.  These were cut oversized because they all require some custom fitting. 

Hope you have fun with it.  Drop a note here when you start a build log.

The monograph goes into detail how I made the gratings.  If you are building at larger scale, consider adding the grating fastenings.  On the left, the fastenings are 0.25" trunnels and on the right are simulated fastenings made with the point of a compass.

The capstan barrel is made in a rather unconventional manner.  The requirements were that it needed be perfectly round, not elliptical, and that it could be made with just a saw and hand tools. 

The top of the barrel is square and fits into the drumhead.  The lower part is round and passes through the hole in the step.  The middle part of the barrel is built up using a series of alternating wedges. This will allow for exact alignment of the whelps without the need for a lathe and mill.  The following is my method for making the barrel wedges.  Make a V-jig from scrap wood.  The angle that the strips make with each other is not critical; on this jig it is 90 degrees.  A piece of wood is glued to the end of the “V” to prevent the stock from sliding off the jig.  Cut two strips of wood, one 7.25” square and the other 6.00” square and long enough to make at least five wedges.  Cut the strip into pieces a little longer than needed for the barrel and draw the shape of the wedge on both ends of the strips.  

Using a sharp chisel, carefully remove the excess wood. The keys to success are take your time, remove only a little bit of wood with each pass and keep your chisel sharp. If you find that the chisel is not cutting smoothly, you are probably cutting against the grain.  Reversing the strip in the jig usually solves the problem. The final shaping can be done with a sanding block.

And the final result.  I was able to shape all ten pieces in a few hours.  The wedges on the left are the final result.  The ones on the right show before and after pictures.  Because the barrel is mostly invisible, a softer wood can be used as long at there is no appreciable grain to catch the chisel (such as basswood).  You can also laminate the square blanks as I did with the two wedges on the right.

The barrel is now assembled, alternating the two sized wedges.  Since this is hand work, there will be slight discrepancies among the wedges.  I sanded off the tip of the wedges for that reason.  You can also see the two wedges made from laminated wood.

The rest of the parts for the barrel can now be made and trial fitted.  Dowels are used to align and secure the top and bottom spindle.  The spindle is made up from wedges that were sanded into a cylinder.  Also seen in the picture is the retaining pin.  This will be located under the capstan step, securing the capstan onto the step.  Nothing is glued together at this point except the ten wedges.

There is nothing magic about  SM.  My blades are brand X.  More important is the handle.   The cheap ones do not hold the blade as well. 

The hatch and gratings are next.  The coamings and head ledges will be connected with half-lap joints.  These are easily made with hand saw and chisel.  There is a rabbet on the coaming to support the grating.  The hatch may appear overly tall but keep in mind that the hatch sits on top of the beams and carlings, not on top of the deck planking.  This is also a top deck hatch which would be taller to prevent water from entering through the hatch.

Glue up the head ledge and coaming.  Once dry, install the rabbet for a tight fit.  The outer edges and corners need to be rounded off to the level of the deck.  The lower two inches is left square for a tight fit with the deck planking.  The upper half of the hatch is also chamfered 1/2".  In the picture below you can see the rounding of the edges and the sharp corners at the deck.  Please make your rabbet nicer than mine!  The picture also shows the relative height difference between upper and lower deck hatches.  Both of these hatches are made from the same sheet of cherry.  I did not apply a finish yet to the upper one.

There are a few things on the weather decks that draw the observer's eye.  One of them is the gratings (of course, the capstan is another).  Once you learn how to make your own grating, you will never go back to kit-supplied ones.  What makes kit gratings so bad?  They are almost always out of scale.  A prototypical grating would have battens and ledges that are approximately two inches wide with similar sized openings.  Remember, sailors walked on these gratings so the openings need to be small enough to prevent a foot or shoe from getting caught in it.  I measured leftover grating parts from two kits.  The first was from a 1:96 Victory.  The blanks were scale 3.5" wide with openings over 10 inches square!  The other was from the 1:62 Prince.  These blanks were almost five inches wide with similar sized openings.  The next problem is that they never fit the opening.  You always end up with gratings that do not have solid wood on all four sides.  Well, I always did.  Finally, they are made from soft wood, so the teeth break off easily.  Choose a hardwood for these.  

They are incredibly easy to make if you have a hobby circular saw.  And you only need enough toothed slats for the ledges; the battens are narrow slats of wood that fit into the the recesses of the ledges.  Here is another "trick".  Even though I make my hatches first and fit the grating to them, if you have any concern about sizing your grating correctly, make it first and then build the hatch around the completed grating.  Take a look at the picture below.  There is a solid slat of wood on all four sides of the grating.  If you look carefully you can the the difference in thickness between the battens and the ledges.  The openings are the same size as the width of the slats.

Absolutely, Chuck.  The plans are fully dimensioned.  The following is a sample from the carlings sheet.