GrandpaPhil
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil
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Quick note, and good news, for anyone looking at this model or any of the rest of Orel’s line, I got a newsletter from Orel’s retail website, Plastic-Model Store. Orel Models got their building, with all equipment, back and will be restarting production with their full line of kits and extra detail sets in the near future. Orel has a very large range of transition era ships and predreadnoughts. Most are 1/200 scale!
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Camel by RGL - FINISHED - Machinen Krieger - 1/20
GrandpaPhil replied to RGL's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Incredible work! -
I have never seen GPM’s upgrade kits, but I am seriously looking at the Shipyard rigging fitting sets for this and my Victory (1:98). Rigging fittings at 1/96 scale are almost too small for my tooling. I probably could make them, but Shipyard has very nice complete sets. Plus, their research has been most excellent, as is their plan sets. So I am sure that they are complete. And then I can scale their fitting set up 50%, duplicate it and use the fittings for my future Winchelsea build too. PS: from what I’ve seen of the their Victory kit, it looks as completely detailed out as the their Mercury and it retails for less than $40 at Ages Of Sail.
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First planking on, how shall I fix this?
GrandpaPhil replied to ubjs's topic in Card and Paper Models
That’s actually a pretty good base. I like to use drywall spackle as filler. It sands easy and works quite well for card models. After you fill and sand a couple times, everything will look much better. When you plank it a second time, I have heard it is better to just add glue to the frames so the second planking stretches between them. -
I have had a lot of fun with card kits (and card modeling in general). The Shipyard 30th Anniversary combo sets are very nice. All of the Shipyard kits are very nice. I don’t think I have ever seen the level of detail in these kits, from any other kit manufacturer (at least from the ones I’ve built), in any medium. If you try one, you won’t be disappointed. Card lends itself very handily to ship models, both for kits and for scratch building. Also, there is not much difference between scratch and kit building with card ships (the same applies to wood ship models as well). So, it is an easy jump to scratch building if that is where your inclination lies.
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T Rex 36in (90cm) long Skeleton - Finished
GrandpaPhil replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Very cool build, OC! -
That’s how I did it using a knife, a pinvise and a razor saw. It would work for the 5mm, but for smaller deadeyes, it’s tricky unless you have a high density wood. I usually buy smaller deadeyes.
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Billing Boats Zwarte Zee - rare find
GrandpaPhil replied to popeye the sailor's topic in Wood ship model kits
Very nice find! I’ve seen your work before, it is excellent! I’m sure that the lack of the fittings kit won’t slow you down in the least bit! I’m looking forward to seeing the build log for this one! -
I like to seal brass (as well as other metal/wood/plastic/resin/card) fittings with a sealant (so the paint sticks better) and then have a paint-a-thon. Then, you can just assembly line them and paint a whole bunch at one time. I should also state that I typically brush paint with acrylics.
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Welcome back!
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Welcome!
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Marc, Soleil Royal is looking great! Your carvings are fantastic!
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Hello from Minnesota, a few modeling questions
GrandpaPhil replied to Scratchie's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome! -
I personally like sails. It adds something to the model, for me at least. So, I make sails for all my models (I like 1/72 scale models, generally speaking). Having said that, it’s a lot of work and sometimes they come out right, sometimes they don’t. I just bought the sail making supplement from Seawatch Books, to learn how to make sails from silk span. The test model is going to be my 1/200 Solferino. I sewed the other ones I’ve made for my other models.
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Rob, Congratulations! Incredible work!
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Very cool! Congratulations!
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I use Mod Podge to seal metal or soft plastic parts or miniatures to get paint to stick. I let it dry for 24 hours before painting. Just make sure you clean the parts or miniatures thoroughly first.
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Taubman’s plans sells them too. http://www.taubmansonline.com
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I have some of their old lead models and they are phenomenal!
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Those pieces of wire are a life saver. I first started using them with my Prince de Neufchatel. However, the tricky part about this particular model will be rigging the lanyards inside the bulwarks, instead of outside, like normal. This is the only ship I’ve ever seen like this. It will make tensioning the shrouds interesting, especially with the small deadeyes. Although, it is also the only ironclad that I have ever built. So, maybe this became a thing in the latter half of the 19th century. I will have to do more research.
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