BANYAN
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Belaying pins
BANYAN replied to bluenose2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I am currently researching pins and racks for my HMCSS Victoria project (built 1855) and I have found discussion that suggests that at some point before this (transition from sail to steam and/or steel) the pin styles changed and that they were permanent fitted in the rack/rail. These pins (not for all ships though) were made from brass or iron, and shaped with a broader middle that fitted to/in the rack and the diameter decreased as they extended away either side of the rack. Before that, I think most pins were of the shape we are accustomed to seeing, and as JCF pointed out, some were made from wood or metal, and were designed to slip into the holes in the rack with the shoulder of the handle part stopping it slipping through. The pins' size was governed by the rigging size belayed to it (I think Lees discusses this but would have to check) and were able to be moved in the rack (other holes) as needed for a better lead/to clear other rigging. Belaying pins were also utilised as weapons during boarding, or defending against boardings. cheers Pat -
I have only left mine floating (not glued) for the reasons mentioned by others above. However, I did ensure the mast entry hole on the deck was a close fit so they did not move around too much cheers Pat
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Thanks JCF, those are very helpful. Looks like I need to pick up some burnt umber to experiment with cheers Pat
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Stunning work Jason, your finishes even stand up to close/macro camera views. That is a very nice shade of blue and complements your choices of wood very nicely - she will be one sweet model when completed. cheers Pat
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Nice recovery with the flat varnish Denis, that really improved the paint blotches for you. Did you find out what caused them? cheers Pat
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Hi John, thaks for looking in mate. To date I have been making my own rope (usually white or unbleached cotton) and applying RIT dye using salt in the mixture to ensure colour fastness. My question was prompted by some research I am doing for a shop note I am putting together for some club members. In a recent workshop I conducted , I was asked a couple of questions relating to the colour of rigging and what was Stockholm Tar. The discussion then went onto why not use it? At that point I had not been aware that it was available commercially as it only came up in one of my internet searches. I was aware of the concoctions that some Russian modellers had used on their prize winning models (via MSW1) and, if I recall correctly, they did not seem to have the associated dripping or greasy consequences from their solution, and the result looked very realistic. I thought it might bear further investigation soooo ..... At the moment I use a mixture of RIT fabric dye mixing Dark Brown with a bit of Black. Some of the suggestions put forward merit some further testing I think. cheers Pat
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Hey thanks guys, some very interesting discussion and feedback to my initial question. The lessons I draw to date are: 1. Tar may not be a great idea no matter how realistic 2. A Walnut type colour should be what we aim for. 3. Artist supplies are a good resource. That said, I will still do a sample and see how it goes with time. from all that has been said however it sounds like it is not a great option for a model unless to achieve a specific purpose (e.g. JCF's build). My experiment will primarily be to determine/confirm the colour and effect to be achieved to match the real stuff on a hemp coloured line/thread. many thanks again Pat
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Thanks JCF, that might be the way I go also as this will leave a residue in the lay lines very similar to the real thing (on a bigger scale); a dye simply colours the thread. Thanks for the link Jaager; Ed has some very interesting techniques worth exploring. If the Stockholm tar proves to messy or attracts too much dust this will certainly be worth a try. I think I will do a few samples and leave them exposed for a while to see how they handle heat and humidity as JCF inferred they might get greasy in hot weather, and also to see how much dust may accumulate over time. Thanks again for the feedback guys. cheers Pat
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Great job Dave, that is a very nice set pf boat chocks and spars on the gallows - looks great! cheers Pat
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Thanks very much for that great feedback and info JCF; much appreciated. Sounds like I may be able to use this stuff in lieu of trying to find and make up the Russian concoction. The second link I had shown in the first post is an Aussie outlet, but there would be so much of it I think it would satisfy the rigging needs of all our club members for the rest of their building lives "Slinging tar" - love the vision that implies I'll have a look in your latest build to see how you applied it; but one quick question, did you dilute it any for better penetration of scale rope? cheers pat
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Many discussions have been held on MSW about this substance as used for preserving standing rigging in sailing ships of yesteryear. In looking for some information I came across this: has anyone tried this for rigging? Is it the same basic composition? http://www.europasaddlery.com/stockholm-tar-500ml.html and this one which is specifically for rope preservation https://shop.classic-boat-supplies.com.au/boat-building-maintenance/general/stockholm-tar-preservative/ Also, some time ago, one of our Russian modellers posted a formula/solution they used to simulate this on scale rigging. By any chance has anyone made a copy of that discussion/formula as it no longer appears in MSW (well that I could find anyway) cheers Pat
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Carbatec 16" Variable Speed Scroll Saw
BANYAN replied to Eddie's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Eddie, I purchased the 18" Carbatec scroll saw (Hegener copy) https://www.carbatec.com.au/machinery-and-accessories/scroll-saws/scroll-saws/scroll-saw-18-old-code-ct-ss18v about 5 years ago and it has proven very reliable with very low vibration. Mine was the previous version but not much has changed. cheers Pat -
Congrats on finishing your Aggie Sjors; a great accomplishment. cheers Pat
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Seems this ship is throwing a fair number of of challenges at you Denis but it seems you are "adapting and overcoming" Nice start to your planking. cheers Pat
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Nice recovery Sjors cheers Pat
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Very nice Michael, and it does EXACTLY what you want it to do with precision (and a lot cheaper than buying one also I bet :)) cheers Pat
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Following along on this very interesting build. It is also great to see the various types of new/newer technologies being considered for this build. cheers Pat
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Denis, WRT hatch covers I would say it depends on how you wish to depict her. If you are fitting sails (at sea) then the hatch covers (canvas) would have been fitted. If in harbour, just arrived or ready to sail) you could go either way (canvas on or off), but if depicted as in port at anchor/alongside then the canvas would have been off in most circumstances with some of the hatch covers open for loading/unloading? I would also go with the flat bar handles as John has shown if you do not fit canvas sea coverings (to protect the cargo) More decisions sorry mate. cheers Pat
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Stunning work yet again Alexander, those look superb. cheers Pat
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If you are worried about the varnish reacting with the balloon try another forming method such as a sand filled bag. Get the sand bag into the shape you want, drape the sail over it and spray on the varnish. Just be sure to be using a colour fast fabric for the bag, or put a layer of glad/cling wrap over the bag between it and the sail to be sure. cheers Pat
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Congrats Elijah, one down and many more to build. As RC stated above, a major achievement in completing your first build, many lose patience or confidence in their skills. Good luck with Philadelphia. cheers Pat
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I am with John on that one denis; the only thing I think to really consider (which it appears you have) is that the colour combinations need to be high contrast so as to make them more easily visible on the sea surface. cheers pat
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