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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Coming along very nicely Gaetan, and thanks for sharing your techniques. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Glad to hear your Admiral is much better and you are now both enjoying life. A good update too Mark; she really looks good without those extensions. So what is the verdict; to hahn or not to Hahn again? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks Wayne and team; another fine addition to the growing archive of useful materials and research documentation. A great effort by all. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Very nice Karl, another fine example of craftsmanship. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    I think you can say you have sated her needs of some TLC Denis, she is looking amazing with all that detail in place. With the extras you have planned she will look very much the part of a hard working trawler. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Some nice tooling there Carl, and some lubrication for you cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Sorry mate, I was not too clear - I don't think you/user can change it. There is a setting the Admin makes which limits the overall size and number of images per post, for the whole site; there is discussion in one of the stickies on this. This is governed by a limit of 2MB per image and there are certain file types not supported. That is why I always reduce the resolution ad limit the pixel size to around the 2040 on the longest side; the initial rules were 1600 x xxxx but I have had 2040 go through as long as under the 2MB limit. There is also this how to. As to interlacing, if you use the More reply options, once you have uploaded your images, there is an option to the right (may be governed by which theme you are using) which allows you to add the image to your post (rather than leave it as an attachment). you can use this to place the image anywhere and interlace it with the text should you wish to. Hope that helps? cheers pat
  8. BANYAN
    Come on Denis; I can here the poor ol Syborn shouting our for some tender lovin even from here cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Hi Vossie, just found your log. You have made a great start here and I look forward to seeing the model develop. WRT photos, there is a setting I think WRT how thumbnails are handled. i simply take my photos and resize to 72dpi and about 2040 x ???? depending on orientation and any cropping. When I add to the post, the site software simply creates the thumbnail and wwhen I click on them they are then open to full size. I am not sure if you are adding the attachment to the post (in the 'more reply options) after downloading the photo? WRT colour, not sure but I have a series of (poor quality) photos of a model of the ship which is at Mount Gambier here in Australia which shows a brown with black livery - not sure if this was the actual scheme? i can send you copies if you think they would help just PM me. The model is not the best I have seen cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Hi all, There is also an interesting paper by Mark Staniforth on the subject at: http://www.academia.edu/358814/The_Introduction_and_Use_of_Copper_Sheathing_-_A_History - you have to signup to download the pdf but it is free; and the article can be read online without signing up. he also has some other interesting topics. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Now that will be one very nice model when made up. Thanks for the extra pics; shows off this little lady's lines very nicely. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Kier, the rabbet is not a scary beast Simply, it should be the depth to accommodate both layers. However, this does not mean twice as deep as usually the first layer is much thicker than the second layer. This second layer is usually just a veneer and very thin. So just make it as deep as the two combined. lay the first layer and there should be a very thin fall about the thickness of the veneer. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    That looks great; and side or front/bow views? the error is probably evident to you but I cannot see it cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Your a brave man Jason; taking a file to such small detail details requires good nerves and steady hands - but, the result is excellent and looks a lot better - well done mate. That stern will look so much nicer with all you attention to detail. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Not necessarily so Ken, for me at least, once I have conceptualised what it is I need to make, I find it is far easier in the workshed. Using your virtual creations you can experiment with copies of each piece and break them into manageable parts. I am in the very early stages of learning 3D just for this very purpose. Nice work on the virtual modelling; look forward to seeing it all come together. cheers pat
  16. BANYAN
    Slow but steady will get you there Coming along very nicely. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    So, all these bits and bobs will sit on the wood things you walk on, which fit to the tub that keeps it afloat then .... Nice work! cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Great to see you back and obviously refreshed from your holidays Glenn. That is a great technique you came up with for the tarred roof, looks very authentic. The model looks great and is a testament to your skills. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Seems you have resolved it quite nicely Dave; good bones = good body they say cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Welcome to the Endeavour club Rexy; I am sure you will enjoy this build and it appears you have made a great start. Plenty of build logs on the site to get ideas and resolve issues. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    I wish I had seen that traveller ring before I tried making one Chuck, far superior than the one I made. I wish I has your forethought to think ahead, but alas my bowsprit had already been assembled and I would have caused more issues trying to fit it. I will order a couple though, they are great looking travellers (and hooks). I did utilise your plastic ones in areas on low stress, and they worked a treat. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    JP, I purchased the MM feather boards for use with my Jim Byrnes say. The bars were not the right fit for the mitre slots so I simply replaced the bars (can't think of the correct term at the moment) from some spares I had. You could easily make them from hardwood, add a little wax for slide, install a bolt from underneath in a countersunk hole(s), at the appropriate point(s) so that it clears the top of the featherboard, and then add a washer and wing nut (the botlt etc from the MM featherboard can be utilised for this) - Voila As the feather boards have a slot pre-cut, this makes them easy to adapt to other mitre slot bars. If, like me you have a spare, unused or another bar from something you can sacrifice, the job is already done and you will have something that precisely fits your mitre slots.. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    The left/right thingy, and all your other work, is very well done Kishmul, this will be a very nice model when converted from the virtual to metal and wood. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    There are some very fine models shown on this site and yours is amongst the very best Alex, exceptional craftsmanship. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Thanks for explanation of the materials, and the processes you are applying to this build. Great work at such a small (micro) scale. cheers Pat

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