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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Looking good Ken cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    That looks very effective Nenad; even simulates the overlap of the plates. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Mike, I did mine (Endeavour) very early in the build and had no problems with them at all (WRT being knocked off) - I used PVA. If well glued I think you will find they are quite robust, but they will remain prone to nicks and dents, especially on the edges, if care is not taken when laying the ship on it's side to do any work, or doing rough work near them. The tape would help with that. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Thanks Eduardo, keep the posts on this subject coming please as it is interesting to see what 3D printing can achieve and be used for in our hobby. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    The planking looks good Mark; she is slowly taking shape. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Thanks Mark - it's been a while in the making cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Thanks again to all the likes and comments; much appreciated folks. Keith - HMCSS Victoria (see earlier post and here) Thanks for looking in Ron, not just to keep the dust off but also to stop fiddling with it (adding more detail) Thanks John, appreciate the earlier feedback and constructive comments to keep the rigging on track. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice 3D print and a good example of what 3D printing can be used for. I am currently teaching myself 3D (TurboCAD) to generate some 3D prints of cannon etc for future products. I think creating figures is a little beyond my capability as I need to copy rather than create What software are you using to draw and then generate the 3D files? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    DARPA will want to confiscate your "weapon" after all these mods Mark; better keep it in a safe place cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    No problem Denis, quite a lot of room in the front row still . cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Nice Greg, that is quite a lot of defined detail for a kit at this scale. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Very many thanks E&T. Thanks for looking in and the compliments; as this is a club build (5 builders) I will pass them onto the respective builders of those parts; I can only claim a small contribution to the hull and the doing the channels though. regards Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Great solution Denis, and a testament to your skills. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Thanks Russ, yes she was a truly beautiful vessel with a 'royal yacht' fit-out internally and cutting-edge (for then) equipment - at one point, Lang and the build over-seer [Lockyer], bemoaned the fact they could not get even more ventilation into the crew spaces . Lang, who designed her on the proviso he had a free-hand did the design for no cost to the Government. I think he was trying to prove a point to the Admiralty at the time of how to achieve the most efficient hull form for a vessel of this type. Although like the Arrow/Vigilance class, she had a slimmer profile for speed, and shallower draft to allow her to work in shallow waters but maintained great blue-water sea-keeping performance.
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks for all the likes and comments folks, much appreciated: - thanks Albert - Mark, a bit of a pity but this is the second ship we have done in the Colonial Navy series which is being displayed in the HMAS Castlemaine Museum ship. They are both the same scale, and the other was painted so to be consistent ... cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    There is a drawing in Marquardt for the D-Block. While it is for the lifts etc, reimposing it onto the hull for the anchor would probably work. It is a simple line drawing which, I am sure if you cite the original there would not be a problem? I know Karl Marquardt quite well and I am happy to ask him for permission to use it on your behalf if you would like? regards Pat
  17. BANYAN
    That's a nice looking result on the rudder Ulises and an interesting technique. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Pete, Marquardt shows one on page 250 of his "18th century rigs and rigging - not sure if this would be the same though. He describes it as "D-blocks were lumps of oak, formed in the shape of the letter D, from 12 to 16 inches long and 8 to 10 inches wide(see figure 184j). They had a sheave fitted and were bolted to the ship's sides in the channels, to take the lifts etc. The D-block was English and came into use at the end of the century, mainly in men-of-war." This does not tie in with your period but could they have been similar in concept but positioned at the bow? cheers Pat [Edit - Falconer gives the same description; Goodwin does not mention them at all.]
  19. BANYAN
    Mike, was that the post where a spacer block was used between steps; having carefully placed the first step? If so that may have been the Endeavour build by Dashi I think? cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Keith, I think the easy answer to your question would be replacement/upgrade parts for all those cheap (mostly very poor quality) white-metal / britannia metal parts you find in kits including decorations, cannon, figureheads, etc. If these are done with more care for the detail there may be a market especially if packaged as 'detail up packages" for various ship kits (*much as the PE you find for some ships and many plastic aircraft models). I have just had a whole ship done (at 1:350) and the level of detail that can be achieved using the right printing medium is incredible. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Thanks Denis, Dave and Per - much appreciate you all looking in and leaving a comment. Thanks also for the many likes. I haven't tried to fix the scratch yet but will try the car polishing compound. Denis - nail polish? more clues please I am intrigued
  22. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments folks; I am very happy to see the interest in this vessel. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    That looks great Denis, some nice detail there and they look the part! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Thanks Greg and UTS; and for all the likes. Greg, I am preparing the space for the next one cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Thanks Druxey; it has proven a great method to date. the real test will come when it is time to open the ports etc We did think of using false risers as well but this proved a little easier according to the gent who did this part of the build. cheers Pat

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