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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. That looks really good Dave; I might have to have a look at that myself. let me know when you get to the Yawl and Gig, as I have to do those yet - a set of dxf files for those would be useful if you don't mind sharing? cheers Pat
  2. My, you have been busy Greg. That is looking good; quite the complex ship but I suppose it had to be with all that armament. cheers Pat
  3. Hi folks, another update - Ron talked me into it I played around with some materials and the result is shown below - still a few minor errors to correct - but largely there. Next job - work out how to apply all of this to reflect the cannon and carriage design for the HMCSS Victoria. That part will not be so easy Mark - don't say I don't do as I am told - off to prepare for the hangover cheers Pat
  4. Looks good OC, great work with the paintbrush to get such an even looking finish - I hope the missus didn't mind you 'borrowing' the hairdryer cheers Pat
  5. Thanks for looking in Doc, Ron, Carl and Mark, and for the many likes. Ron, I will have a poke around the menus to see what I can do with materials. I am doing this following a Tutorial so I don't want to get too far ahead of myself. I am only a couple of hours (hangovers allowing) to starting that process but it can't do much harm 'exploring" - I hope cheers Pat
  6. Well, a bit more practice and some progress with my TurboCAD 3D project. Here are a few basic renders of the progress I have made to date. Hopefully within a couple of weeks I'll be able to show a couple of advanced renders. Things will slow for the next few days as my younger boy is getting married this Saturday and I hope to send him on his honeymoon with a 'hangover' - I know, I'll be in trouble with the daughter-in-law cheers Pat
  7. Thanks again Michael; I missed this otherwise would not have cluttered you log as much This looks a very usable and ergonomic solution. cheers Pat
  8. Hi Chris, the biggest 'must do' for me is power outlets - never have enough of them- plus one at the front of the bench to plug in those hand held tool so that the cords are more easily managed/kept away from the work piece. cheers Pat
  9. Thanks Michael, that is very helpful. That would be very useful if you go ahead with a design using commonly available materials; I for one would value it. cheers Pat
  10. Michael, I think having two of those little beauties (third hands) is excessive; to save you the embarrassment I am happy to take the second one off your hands (all puns intended) Seriously though, they look great. I purchased a GRS third hand (soldering station) but yours, especially with the machine clamps look very usefull for rigging as well as many soldering set-ups. Would you mind posting a pdf of the mechanical set-up of the arm version (how you make it grip the bar yet remain adjustable etc)? I am not keen on grub or thumb screw option and I really like what you have done here. cheers Pat
  11. That's great Greg; very informative seeing someone with experience put it all together. Many thanks. Those clear perspex holders also look useful - where did you get them? cheers Pat
  12. I had not seen this topic before and sorry to have missed it That is 'some' restoration, and glad it is you rather than me. You're doing an excellent job of restoration Michael, I will be sure to follow this topic more closely now that I have found it. cheers Pat
  13. I wouldn't OC as the keying with sandpaper/steelwool (even the finest will leave micro-scratches) which in time may tend to show grime, swirls etc etc - better to wait I think. Then again, I have seen some high-gloos (but very hard) paint finished with a very, very fine wet&dry with no long effect. cheers Pat
  14. Looks good Greg, very fiddly work indeed and I just hope my 'trembling' old fingers can cope WRT copper wire those handrails must have been a real b....r to do? Comment duly noted cheers Pat
  15. Thanks Vossy and Greg. That answers the major part and much appreciate the feedback. The biggest trick (for me) as a novice will be to place things just right, hence my questions on where to apply the glue, the PE or the assembly part? A few pics, or as COG suggests a video would be real nice, on some of the techniques you have developed for placing some of these tricky parts. Unlike a nice big strong (compared to these plastic/resin models) you can clamp the assembly (read hull) which gives a nice steady platform on which to apply the part; how do you hold these smaller less robust assemblies while you place the PE; and don't fingers and the like get in the way???? I hope this is not high-jacking your thread Greg, and I am happy to move these posts to a separate topic? YouTube does not have much on this for building scale model ships (well that I can find anyway) and you seem to have a real knack for it; I am sure many others as well as I could benefit from your experience. cheers Pat
  16. Very nice plans you are developing Joss; they should make building very easy with such detail. I have been looking in regularly but not posted. cheers Pat
  17. Looking good OC - I was surprised how much detail popped with the top-coat; is it a flat or a satin (semi-flat) finish as it does reflect light with a bit of shine to it? cheers Pat
  18. Greg I think ir3 may have been wanting to know how you apply the CA? I'd be interested also After dry fit and painting off the assembly, do you apply the CA to the part or to the assembly? What do you use to apply the CA and what sort thin or gel or... I have been watching some YouTube (aircraft) modelling tips and they often place the part then apply a thin glue and allow it to wick into the joints; can you do that with thin CA? cheers Pat
  19. Thanks for all who looked and their likes and comments. Dave, one of the ideas is to produce at least some of the parts by 3D printing. I am learning 3D so that I can also produce templates for deck furniture and ship fittings; that way, I can trial them in 3D CAD to see if it will go together as planned. Ron, I'll take a look at that but a bit early for me just yet. The key thing I intend to use this for, is to try and build a representative CAD drawing of a pivot gun c1855. I have found no definitive plan or drawing just yet, so I will try and cobble what I can together from contemporary paintings, drawings and similar gun carriages etc. cheers Pat
  20. Hi folks, Well now that my Endeavour build is complete I have a little more time to do things and decided I would try to learn 3D (using TurboCAD). I learn by doing so I decided to invest in a Tutorial produced by Don Cheke of Textual Creations. Don has created a TC 3D tutorial for an antique cannon that while not exactly true to design is very close, so I thought this would be a good way of developing the skills I will need to design and create the cannon and carriage for HMCSS Victoria. The following show the carriage in a near complete state (still have to do the quoin and the trucks) and then onto the cannon itself. These are just basic renders with no materials or the like applied yet. It's been fun but I have soooooooo much to learn yet - just getting my head around the work planes is daunting cheers Pat
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