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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Hi Kiran and welcome to MSW. This is a great place to learn and you will find people willing to help you when needed. What sort of models do you make/interested in; static or RC, period or steel navy etc? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    That's unusual REXY, mine was the AL kit (as a starting point) and it had the walnut wheels; i don't recall there being any brass ones. Could be a later version of the kit? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    I look forward to this build Karl, your last was inspiring and this looks as it will be another! cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Carl, There are a few discussions about the use of Talc and baking soda/powder with thin, and with "old' CA as a filler and/or strengthener, but also as a backing in crevices to support small pieces etc. See http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/13/t/90424.aspx or http://www.tested.com/art/makers/573280-shop-tips-mixing-superglue-and-baby-powder/ or http://www.whatifmodellers.com/index.php?topic=33125.0 Note in the latter discussion it states that once sprinkling the powder over the CA, let it set but to sand it sooner rather than later as it sets very very hard. This is an example of the commercial product (no associations nor have I used it yet - just aware of it). i do not know if it works better or not than baking soda https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/rc-modelling/30-roket-powder-5060243900159.html cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi rexy, great to see you making some progress with the planking. Could I recommend though that you do not leave the metal pins in as these will cause hard spots when sanding to fair the first planking. You will find that the sandpaper will take away the softer wood leaving the metal with a small surround of wood forming a bump if you have to sand that area. I found it best to use the pins as temp fasteners and not drive them home so that i could remove them once the glue has set. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Greg, Carl would 'powder' and thin CA along the joint for reinforcing also work? I know Rocket make this stuff but I have heard that using talc would also work? The card modellers use this technique a lot I believe? cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice work; if that is what you do when crook, I really look forward to the quality of your work when you are feeling well cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice to have you back in the dockyard Mike; must have been a great holiday? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Great to see you back Steve; the gaff looks good. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Nice work Sjors; slowly but surely will get you there cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Coming along very nicely Gaetan, and thanks for sharing your techniques. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Glad to hear your Admiral is much better and you are now both enjoying life. A good update too Mark; she really looks good without those extensions. So what is the verdict; to hahn or not to Hahn again? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Thanks Wayne and team; another fine addition to the growing archive of useful materials and research documentation. A great effort by all. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Very nice Karl, another fine example of craftsmanship. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    I think you can say you have sated her needs of some TLC Denis, she is looking amazing with all that detail in place. With the extras you have planned she will look very much the part of a hard working trawler. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Some nice tooling there Carl, and some lubrication for you cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Sorry mate, I was not too clear - I don't think you/user can change it. There is a setting the Admin makes which limits the overall size and number of images per post, for the whole site; there is discussion in one of the stickies on this. This is governed by a limit of 2MB per image and there are certain file types not supported. That is why I always reduce the resolution ad limit the pixel size to around the 2040 on the longest side; the initial rules were 1600 x xxxx but I have had 2040 go through as long as under the 2MB limit. There is also this how to. As to interlacing, if you use the More reply options, once you have uploaded your images, there is an option to the right (may be governed by which theme you are using) which allows you to add the image to your post (rather than leave it as an attachment). you can use this to place the image anywhere and interlace it with the text should you wish to. Hope that helps? cheers pat
  18. BANYAN
    Come on Denis; I can here the poor ol Syborn shouting our for some tender lovin even from here cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Hi Vossie, just found your log. You have made a great start here and I look forward to seeing the model develop. WRT photos, there is a setting I think WRT how thumbnails are handled. i simply take my photos and resize to 72dpi and about 2040 x ???? depending on orientation and any cropping. When I add to the post, the site software simply creates the thumbnail and wwhen I click on them they are then open to full size. I am not sure if you are adding the attachment to the post (in the 'more reply options) after downloading the photo? WRT colour, not sure but I have a series of (poor quality) photos of a model of the ship which is at Mount Gambier here in Australia which shows a brown with black livery - not sure if this was the actual scheme? i can send you copies if you think they would help just PM me. The model is not the best I have seen cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi all, There is also an interesting paper by Mark Staniforth on the subject at: http://www.academia.edu/358814/The_Introduction_and_Use_of_Copper_Sheathing_-_A_History - you have to signup to download the pdf but it is free; and the article can be read online without signing up. he also has some other interesting topics. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Now that will be one very nice model when made up. Thanks for the extra pics; shows off this little lady's lines very nicely. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi Kier, the rabbet is not a scary beast Simply, it should be the depth to accommodate both layers. However, this does not mean twice as deep as usually the first layer is much thicker than the second layer. This second layer is usually just a veneer and very thin. So just make it as deep as the two combined. lay the first layer and there should be a very thin fall about the thickness of the veneer. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    That looks great; and side or front/bow views? the error is probably evident to you but I cannot see it cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Your a brave man Jason; taking a file to such small detail details requires good nerves and steady hands - but, the result is excellent and looks a lot better - well done mate. That stern will look so much nicer with all you attention to detail. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Not necessarily so Ken, for me at least, once I have conceptualised what it is I need to make, I find it is far easier in the workshed. Using your virtual creations you can experiment with copies of each piece and break them into manageable parts. I am in the very early stages of learning 3D just for this very purpose. Nice work on the virtual modelling; look forward to seeing it all come together. cheers pat

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