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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Nice work Ron, she is looking good. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi Ulises, the method for measuring mast and jib boom / bowsprit angles is also dependent on what tools (levels) you have. I think what you have done verifies you are in the ballpark. One method I use is very similar top your approach, in that I ensure the work surface and waterline are parallel. I then use a digital angle level/protractor which I zero on the work surface and then place on the spar to be measured and read off the angle (adjusting the alignment chocks etc as I go to achieve the correct angle). Another, more crude method I have used is to print off a paper protractor (series of lines at regularly spaced intervals). I stick this to a temporary holder (scrap wood) then use a plumb-bob to align a true perpendicular and adjust the paper protractor to the required orientation and perpendicular alignment. Then read off the spar angle against the lines. Again you need to ensure the work surface and the waterline are parallel and preferably level. I hope that makes sense. I used this method until I purchased the digital angle level which are quite affordable - very often on special for a few dollars at our local hardware outlets such as Bunnings (in Australia). This image of one is taken from an eBay advertisement; it differs from mine in that the bubble level on the top is an additional enhancement. I have not ties etc with this provider with the image used only to illustrate the device. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    You're not mucking around, your progress is impressive! cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Druxey, exquisite work! WRT suggestions on Operational display of oars - if there are no crew then not operational? A feathered display might be more realistic? just an opinion - and how else would a viewer appreciate the full detail of those miniature masterpieces? cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Chris - For soldering paste (silver and copper) I use Australian Jewellers Supplies / House of Jewellery - http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/soldering-welding-c-95.html?__utma=187725425.995140569.1462256671.1462256671.1462256671.1&__utmb=187725425.0.10.1462256671&__utmc=187725425&__utmx=-&__utmz=187725425.1462256671.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not%20provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=163156796 They may have some other things you might need also. Try ringing them; I have found them to be very helpful in determining exactly what you need etc (but unfortunately, they are slightly expensive). As to Birchwood Casey Blackening; I bought a large bottle ( more than a lifetimes supply) from a gun shop in Western Melbourne somewhere at a very reasonable price. If interested I can try and track down the name of the place. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Nice work Keith, the ornamentations looks great. Glad to see you have come to grips with the positioning and size of the ports. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Russ, if you had not already thought of/intended to do, a trick the plastic modellers use, is to brush a layer of clear over them to seal and protect them. You just need to ensure it is a non-yellowing clear finish. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    That looks great Russ; lovely detail! cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Very nice work Jason, she is looking great! the batten came up really well. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    All coming along very nicely Dash. Even with the AL kit, bits and bobs were not IAW the required numbers (under and over). I ended up getting a set (PE) of my own hinges. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Congratulations on the Book Druxey, I am sure it will be another fine addition to many libraries. WRT the oars, the extended display over the baseboard in the rowing configuration looks 'busy' in the photo but may be fine on display - but what about the glass/acrylic case fit? If you stay with the existing base board, then perhaps an approach from left field? Have you considered standing them up vertically behind, or at either end of the boat (drill holes into the base boardand make the case a little taller)? Otherwise my vote would remain with oars tossed even if it hides some of the mast details cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    A brave start Mark; gtood luck with these as they look a bit tricky cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    A great follow-up on the launches Chuck - she will make a delightful model. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Agree, too many oars outboard would distract I think; either bundled or standing upright but the latter would not be realistic? cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    A big improvement but still fiddly Good luck! cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Some really nice detail there Keith, and a good choice in going the 'proper' route with the plans. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi Ken, sorry to have missed your log before this as I limit myself to a certain number of builds otherwise i would spend all day on the PC An interesting subject and build you have going; card is an area I have not yet dabbled in so I will pull up a chair and have a closer read from the beginning. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Beautiful detail and great craftsmanship Greg. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    You have been busy; quite rapid progress - looking good cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Great detail and some nice soldering there Dave. It seems you are coming to grips with the resistance soldering? cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Some excellent detail there Greg; the checkboard effect of the capstan scotchman looks really good. One milestone down, only a couple to go? cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    I'll take a seat also mate; these engineering exemplars of yours are not only informative but mouth watering results. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Nice work Ulises; that patina looks great and well suited to this style of model. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Looking good mate! cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Great outcome Mark, patience and determination ...I think you have earned an extra tot today cheers Pat

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