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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Great progress mate; she looks terrific - you have every right to be proud of your efforts. cheers Pat
  2. Mate your extra efforts have been worth it; look 'just right'! cheers Pat
  3. Looks really good Mark; good luck with the top-down approach to the collar. cheers Pat
  4. Build and learn in the extreme hey Mark I hope you're logging these 'lessons learned' - sadly i didn't and will probably repeat a few (another lesson learned ). I am sure you will find a solution to your collar issue when you least expect it. I am also recalling a muuch rum befuddled memory from MSW 1 (I think) where someone used the inner foil from cigarette packets for this task also??? cheers Pat
  5. Hi Mike, to a large degree (generally speaking) the line colour was similar with any difference to the colour ususally based on the material from which the rope was made - Hemp, Sisal, Manilla etc. Most seizings (based on my time in the more modern navy) most seizings were done with sailmakers twine. As Mark said, the protective tarring was applied later. cheers Pat
  6. Hi Wefalck, some very nice machining; but, we have become accustomed to that from you This is a well designed and made compact tool for the precise sanding of small pieces/parts. One question though, if I may? How do you secure the piece be sanded so that it does not move while sanding. The mitre will assist, but even the slightest movement can have disasterous results on very small pieces. Do you intend fitting hold-downs or such or do you use a non-slip under-pad with the part? cheers Pat
  7. That's two of us Dave Mine are permanently fitted now so will need to live with the "extra" cheers Pat
  8. Mark, I was able to get some chamoise leather (very very thin) from a modelling shop here in Aussie - this might do a reasonable job but I think there were canvas? For my Endeavour I used some calico (well washed; put it on, wet it with a very diluted PVA/water solution, shaped and let it dry. Not perfect but... cheers Pat
  9. Looking forward to the Bridge Cabin equipment and furniture if previous builds are anything to go by cheers Pat
  10. Even up close (zoomed) this model is flawless; a testament to the skills applied! cheers Pat
  11. Ron, try a fabric stiffener (more robust than starch) which is usually available at an arts and crafts, or sewing supplies (Spotlight if in NZ?) - an alternative might be "stop-fray" . You will need to position the ropes initially, spray and reset where necessary. Just a suggestion not sure how permanent these will be though? cheers Pat
  12. Beautiful! Simply stunning ornamentation Igor; you're aging process is very effective. cheers Pat
  13. No stopping you now mate; good progress with some excellent details - looks great"! cheers Pat
  14. I actually thought that was a lovely piece of burl before I read your text - extraordinary! cheers Pat
  15. Great explanation and a very useful tool accessory Ian - thanks. I think I will need to make a few myself. cheers Pat
  16. Great detail Greg; so much better than those original resin details. You must have good steady hands - they are soooooo small. cheers Pat
  17. Wow - thanks for the interest and likes folks - appreciate the encouragement. Greg: yeah does help a tad Thanks for the comments Mark and Chris. cheers Pat
  18. Hi again folks. I have finally motivated myself to make a start on the yards. The following photos (across two posts) shows the process I have used with two yards now formed. After resizing the plans to suit my scale (1:60) I have printed them to form a guide and from which to take measurements - I double check these against the spreadsheet created by Dan Vad to ensure all is accurate. I then mark up the square stock using the 7:10:7 rule for which I have generated a template on my PC. The square stock is then fitted to the jig for milling into the octogan base yard. The jig and the process, are a modification of that recommended by David Antscherl in his "The Fully Framed Model, ....., Vol 4" - thanks David this Volume has been very useful. Once the octagonal has been formed, I spin the stock in my lathe to shape the tapered and rounded outer yard arms - I use a plastic tick strip as my ready reference. This has proven workable for me with the Main and Fore Main yards now shaped (yet to receive the furniture) - I will make a start on the crossjack this week and then onto the upper yards. cheers Pat
  19. You'll have quite the fishing fleet by the end of this process mate and jump over to the MM for a bit of R&R Interesting concept re variations of the same hull base. cheers Pat
  20. What an interesting subject for a model. I didn't even know she existed and thought the Japanese subs with their planes were unique (wonder where they got there idea??) cheers Pat
  21. Dave, they are looking really good. If you can avoid doing so; I would recommend leaving the channel capping pieces off until you have finished rattlin - that way of any of the joints give way 9like they did for me) at least you won't have to worry about removiong the glued capping piece. maybe a temporary one that is pinned to hold the chains and deadeyes in place? Keep he good work going mate, she is looking great. cheers Pat
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