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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. Denis: You may be right. I also now know, that the orlop decks are usually flat. These internal parts of ships are all new to me. That particular deck was to be water free. I also think, in retrospect, that caulking those planks may have also been unnecessary. Still learning. That said, its close (camber)– but the camber of my installed orlop deck has actually too much. Should have been flat I think? After fitting more gun deck planks (amount to be determined) and installing carriages I may add shims to the deck frames to increase the camber just a tad of the lower gun deck. Patrick: Yes I intend on adding knees. I did not for the orlop deck, OcCre did not, and many drawings that I have seen did not either. It was a mixed decision. Both gun decks will indeed have knees, as well as the horizontal side braces that I will add. May need to play with the kit provided knees they are all ply-board bits. May just make some up. Though I must say the kit bits are a perfect fit. The last photo is my guide. Notations had been made previously. Thanks for your comments mates. Cheers,
  2. Robert: Thanks for your kind words. Your Victory is looking very awesome. Your shipyard is also a “dream”. Your lantern technique sure is clever as well. Thanks for dropping by. Anthony: Yes, that would be nice. Had not thought of that. But my stern side is very unkempt. Have paid little attention to that area (planks don’t quite align, LED wiring will wrap around vertical framing as well, treenails not added, etc,.) Thanks for the idea…I may re-consider. Patrick: Thanks as well. I sure like the beak grids on your GH. !! Started the lower gun deck (barely). Need to determine how much planking – do want to rig the carriages (at least three of them) Also need to add barrels to orlop deck.As always mates, thanks for the likes and dropping by.
  3. Patrick, Your grating work is so good! Great added details very realistic Well Done. Regards,
  4. Martyn, Sorry to read about your problems with the lights - Ouch!! I assume, that you will contact the vendor - hoping that he rectifies the issue. Too bad about the already installed hold lantern.
  5. E&T, BRILLIANT work, found your log from a posting that Denis (Popeye the sailor) made about your build at the link that I had posted regarding the OcCre version. I had NO idea - when I posted - that your research and work had almost been stolen by OcCre - SO happy that things have been resolved to your satisfaction. The series should also help drive sales for this particular ship, I would think? I will go back and spend a lot of quality time going through your amazing build log, and I will bring a ladder so as to catch your continued work from way back in your deservedly crowded shipyard Regards,
  6. Robert, Nice update indeed. PS: The word Envious just came to my mind I wonder why?
  7. Denis: Thanks appreciated. To your question, no I don’t plan on having the rear face visible for views. That said opening as much planking as possible is, for me, the key for this one. PS: You know how some folks love tons of photos in frames - very visible for all to see in their homes – yup my Admiral –The Vasa took the place of many of those photos –She was real good about that. So, assuming I win a second real estate location war she will hang on a wall (hopefully within the home) The case, framed in wood at its rear, will have Plexiglas on its three front sides. The Plexiglass R&L sides will not be wood framed allowing for a more open view. The rear face will be a burlap type of white/beige cloth (height and width of the entire rigged cross section {so tall and narrow}). Ship's sails will all be furled. The wood base will include, on its under bottom the on/off switch battery holder. I want to keep the case as minimalist as possible (similar to the Vasa case). This case, however, will have a wood top. This is, by the way, way down the road – you will prob. complete building a fleet of ships before I even get to the mast shrouds of this one. As always, Cheers
  8. Denis, You seem to be operating concurrent ship yards all over the place. Are you planing on becoming the Amazon of shipyards. Nice project ---- Cheers mate
  9. Oops, forgot about adding a vertical brace between the hold and the orlop deck. OcCre asks for two, side by side. (not really looking at the instructions) One is fine. I will add two as gun carriages add to weight.
  10. Working on this deck’s planks. Done here, open plank area to my liking, but thinking of adding some barrels at the back area (at least). Then onto the inner sidewall timbers, and lower gun deck framing as well as adding a lantern to the just finished area below. As always thanks for the posts and just dropping by. Cheers,
  11. Martyn, A bit more - from this vender you can order exactly what you need with the voltage resistors pre-installed. They work right out of the box, no need to fiddle with adding resistors. lights wires have two colors red and green. Once all of your lights are installed, grab all of the red wires and spool them together to make a single red bundle. Do the same for the green wires. Then just connect the bundled red wires to the red wire on the battery pack, then same for other side. click "on" there you go lights on everywhere. PS: This very simple wiring is the same for all battery packs. Just be sure that you order the lights that are the correct voltage for the battery and holder you plan on using. AAs' 9V etc. According to the order I placed this 3V button battery will power up to 10 LEDs of the type I bought. Hope this helps PS: there are two LED wire lengths available. I got the 8" had not thought about the resistor toward the end of the wire. I don't know the size of your cross-section. You might want to order longer wires (12" If I remember correctly) https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/smd-chip-leds.html
  12. Mates thank for the super nice comments! Martyn, See my post one above the last one - 3V using a button battery all lights will hook up to the on/off bat. holder.
  13. Hi Mates, Thanks so much for the likes, and comments always so appreciated. First attempt with lights done. Well the first one in any case. I very much like the look of these super tiny yellow LED's Parts: toothpick, silicone tubing, black pinstripe tape. Here are some updated shots. The next lights will all attach to the side walls so will need to make tops that will attach with hooks. This first lantern will hardly be viisible so just attached it directly to that beam.
  14. Hi Dave, Just found your log. Looks great indeed. Cross sections lend themselves (for me anyway) to new learning about how the "insides" were put together. Very nicely detailed work - beyond the basic kit - as was mentioned. Also grabbing a chair. Cheers,
  15. Marc, Your close up shots are so great. Your attention to, and executions of these details are excellent indeed. Sails are superb - an area that is very hard to scale properly IMHO. As Jeff just said Ultimate man cave indeed. I would add a 60" 4K, sound system, sound proof the room And add an inside lock bolt hahaha Maybe in my next life.
  16. Has anyone tried using rubbing alcohol? I was going to try that next. Have not so far
  17. Thomas, Went back and spent a great time going through your log - Brilliant level of skills ---- A beauty for the senses. I will try to emulate (very loosely that is) some of your specific applicable details for my current build - still learning I am. Respectfully,
  18. Hi Mates, FYI: The LED 3V lights and switch arrived. YES these will be perfect.The LED is so tiny that it will, in scale seem, like a candle. Waiting of the silicone 3mm tubing so that I can build the lanterns. The wires are also so tiny that I think that I can manage to actually install the lights through the bottom of the lanterns, add a bit of white paint to represent the candle wax within the lantern housing, easily hiding the wires from view - I think (:-) Very happy with this light supplier!! Will update soon--
  19. federico, Canons with emblems can be bought from most ship model supply companies. They come in several sizes as well. 1) paint black (air brush allows for a super smooth flat cover) 2) Using a flat blade to scape off the paint from the emblem 3) add a clear coat after just to the emblem – helps to keep the brass brighter. Here is a link to the store from which I bought these canons; https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=a4169&PN=4169-Decorative-Cannon-Barrel-36mm-A4169%2ehtml#SID=1552 PS: All members here at MSW are super helpful – any questions will always be answered. These canons do not have the correct emblem for the last ship I built (that's for sure) and not for this one that I am building now. Almost nobody will ever know the difference - well some here would haha In any case it does make for nice added details. Hope this helps.
  20. Tim, ----- I think it gives a reasonable likeness of worn and slightly stained canvas. ------- On the contrary your furled jib and foresail are brilliant. The scaled look is by far the best that I have seen so far with furled sails. Super nice work indeed. Regards,
  21. Glenn, Just catching up - Beautiful project your attention to the smallest of details are and their execution are excellent. Great build. It was a pleasure following along. Yes, there are always things that, looking at her again, you may think that you would add, change, or re-do - Don't go there! it is, as you know the Dark Side of our hobby Gongrats!!
  22. federicoaa, Nice detail. Glad that you could make use of this detail. A detail that I also borrowed from an other build log. Regarding the canons, yes they will be air-brushed black. I will not use the kit supplied issues instead using the same ones that I used in my previous Vasa build. I will also hand make the carriages. The kit provided metal one piece bits - I prefer to make these up. here are a few shots of how they should look once done - from the Vasa. Thanks for dropping by much appreciated.
  23. Amelio, Maybe in my next life my skills will come close to your work - prob not - haha - Amazing work indeed. Such a pleasure to follow.
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