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Everything posted by mtaylor
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John, I'd almost bet that access to the hurricane dig was tp exit the hull via one of the gunports and then use the ladders. As for provisions... possibly via the gunports in the bow? Are there any scuttles over the coal storage area? That would seem logical for the coaling. I vaguely remember something about these boats were built pretty fast (quick and dirty) for armor protection and firepower so a lot of man power was needed for things like re-provisioning. Even replacement of cannons required decking, armor, etc. to be removed.
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I did something not quite the same on my current build. I laser etched a square of wood with the dedication to my wife and then sealed it in the ship's hold.
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Steven, You might just be right. Even if they weren't using the "Great Circle" knowingly, it's still possible that their navigation lead them that way. Flat maps and globes really don't play nice together.
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When Clamps Don't
mtaylor replied to mikiek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
They "overbending" the plank a bit so it's end is in place. Dab a bit of CA down the plank (and the end) and put wood glue on the rest. Just don't let the wood glue touch the CA as it cause the CA to quickly cure out. Put into place and hold for a few minutes to set the CA. The only other alternative is drill some small holes in the framing and bend some pins to hold the strake into place. -
What Floyd said... but I'll add that Bluejacket has one that nice also but while MS is of the early 20th century rebuild, Bluejacket's closer to the ship as built. There's differences in the way the models are built and the Bluejacket may not appeal to you.
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Thanks Greg. I hope I wasn't insulting but this ship is something else... pure, lean, and mean. Oh.. and call me Mark. Mr.Taylor is my father.
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Not what I would call a pretty ship. Not the classic lines of a battle wagon or cruiser but she/he looks deadly. I'd hate to be on the receiving end of those missiles. Looks very good from here, Greg. I'm looking forward to this all coming together. Just curious... what is AK Blue Filter? Googling it has me confused.
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I can believe you had a steep learning curve on the wheel, Frank. The end result makes it worth it. Beautiful!!!!!
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Fascinating details on the double hull, E&T. That is one impressive build.
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I wonder if that platform is a spray deflector to deflect any water away from the deck? Interesting detail.
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It's great to see you back Ferit. Well done on the repair. I hope this year will be good to you.
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Sounds like things are going in the right direction, Chuck. Rock on.
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Welcome to MSW, Padua.
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Welcome to MSW, Oliver.
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Welcome back, Stevie.
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Thank you all for your patience and your support. Been slow going but progress is being made. I've been planking the gundeck bulwarks, but it's slow going. Current state is in the photos. One side done with planking and the other almost there. Ports are being cleaned up the side that's done. In the middle of this, I'm also considering how much detail to spend time on in the areas under the fore and stern castles. When those get planked it will dark.. bitch black for the most part. So sorting out what I want to do versus what I can do. I'm leaning towards the "full monty" as such but maybe cut back on the gun rigs to only breeching. Hahn apparently took lots of shortcuts such as not bothering to plank the area under the stern lights. The ANCRE Belle Poule shows a lot detail that I'm thinking about. Decisions, decisions.... Sorry for the picture quality.. I'm beginning to think I need a new camera but it could just be batteries. (Note to self: restock battery supply).
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Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?
mtaylor replied to Kriegmeister's topic in Plastic model kits
It would not be surprising to find out that they did indeed use similar moulds or maybe with slight differences. If we look at kits in general there's much of that going on. -
OC,Essentially that's correct. The stem was tapered not only wide at the top and narrower at the bottom but narrower at the front and thicker at the aft end. Part 7 in Mike's drawing shows this. Note that on my ship, Licorne was narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. Seems the French tested and tried a lot of different things in their quest for a better design. One would need to look at the keel drawing also as they were tapered.. some ship aft only, others fore and aft. Don't get me started on the masting....I'm still sorting that out. But again, appears to have been an experiment.
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Interesting points, Mike. I agree on it not being French but I'll just shrug my shoulders as to which nation built it. Chapman seems to be a pretty good source and point of reference so go with that. I'm thinking zu Mondfeld used Chapman from what you see. He seems to have copied a lot of sources (and even then a few things are wrong) for his book. As reference works, i take his as more of an "overview" than something "definitve" because of the lack of references. Having said that.... it's on my shelf and frequently referenced if for nothing else than to give my self a clue and refresh the memory. IOW, a starting point, not a destination. As for the bow, the more I look at it, the more it looks like kit designer's prerogative to make the design and building of the model easier.
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Using Holly for decks
mtaylor replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I think that Holly is closer to the deck colors of at least the Royal Navy as their decks were holystoned (at least once a week) on a frequent basis. -
Mike, I'm in agreement with Jason. Logic says as you do... they width should be consistent but in this case, it isn't. Could be kit designers choice or maybe that's the way it was. If this is a Swedish ship in actuality, it could have been that way. It's sort of like that arch over and behind the stern. Definitely a "what the h***" moment when we realize the French Renommee doesn't have that. So, yes, you'll have to do some thinning. You might be able to do some tapering rather than scoring and grinding. I think that's what I would do... just taper it.
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