mtaylor

Nice work, Sjors. The hammock nettings look perfect.

Looking good, Tom. I think your plan is very doable at this point.

I don't mind, but it's Chuck's call. That's why I mentioned Shore Leave as an alternative. I'm just sucking up all the info I can.

How can one not be a wood junky, Mike? I've done some jewelry boxes also my Admiral... a few "big boy" tools are good to have. But not too many as they get in the way.

Jay, At least show the finished work.. if not here then in Shore Leave. Please?

Go watch Master and Commander (the battle sequences) for a good idea on how this was done. Jud, Russ. and Allan gave good info.

Just marvelous, Dave. I too have watched the progress and your work is incredible. Have two cold ones... one for me since I can't be there to raise one in your honor.

Dion, Snoop around in the Tools area here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/18-modeling-tools-and-workshop-equipment/ I've seen several home built table saws. If you don't find anything (use the search feature while in that forum) try posting the question there. I hope your health and that of your wife continues to improve.

Pete, Snoop around in the Scratch section also. Maybe a search for gunport and hinges while in that forum and another in the kit forum? I've seen quite a few very well done hinges there as well as in the kit logs.

I'll offer two links... The first has some articles on what to expect and how to select a kit: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php This second one has several articles on basic tools along with one article on tools not to bother with: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php

Sweet. Bob. The clerestory is a great addition.

Just a minor setback, Sam. The last of the parts needed will be in tomorrow and once it's back together, maybe I can find my way back to Licorne. She's in this mess somewhere.....

Brian, Carpenter's glue is usually the PVA that's yellow in the bottle. Hide glue is brown flakes and needs the double boiler setup like you described.

Brian, Here's a starting post... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14147-would-this-glue-serve-a-useful-purpose-in-model-building/

Kurt, I can't answer this, but if you don't get answer here, ask it here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/

Mike, I'm glad I was able to help...

If the second supplier is who I think it is, he believes we modelers wish to "finish" the wood to our own specs (sanding, final dimensions) using our own tools. He does do good work on the finishing (dimensions and sanding) if requested when the order is placed. Anyway, welcome to MSW and the Triton. It's a great project.

Bob, The shopvac is for dust in the shop and if needed, water spills. There's not an ember problem per se, but one does need to have a spray bottle of water and a good fire extinquisher handy as sometimes the wood being cut will catch fire. Rule of thumb.. never leave a laser cutter running and unattended. The GFI add-on is due to the water cooling. If there's a leak... all sorts of hell can break loose. We also put external grounding wires on these things. My latest fling with Mr. Murphey points out about being safe.... the water pump died in the middle of high power cut, this caused the tube to overheat and crack.. which between the tube coming apart and some water exiting the tube, took out the power supply and that arcing and sparking of 25kV (tube voltage) took out the controller board. The damage was to the equipment and not to me even though I was leaning on the laser at the time (both hands, watching the cut). Air filtration took care of the smoke that came out of the parts. After repairs are made, I'm adding a water flow/pressure sensor to the system... another hard lesson learned.

Well done, Capt'n. Have pint or two to celebrate.

Jack, It just dawned on me... the tip is rated for 900 Degrees, What is the soldering iron (everything else but the tip) rated for? Probably in Watts..... The dredges came out looking good. I'm assuming they get painted?

Congratulations on the finish line, Frank. Beautiful work and a practicum to boot.

Carl --- Not quite everything yet. If Murphy will go bother someone else instead of me, I would appreciate it. I just wouldn't wish him on anyone here on MSW. EJ --- I'm trying. I think I need a better cover over the exhaust port.

Congratulations, Russ. She's a beauty and the coils just add to the atmosphere.

Depends on the tube. I ordered a 45W (which was tested and is putting out 50W) for $250 (not counting discount special going on) from lightobject.com. The power supply came from Automation Technologies. I think the tube supplier is getting better tubes from China these days. The last one was rated at 45W and tested for 45W max. The new one is the same tube I ordered the last time but the 50W is hit and with less input amperage. Same for the power supply. The replacement is higher rated for output and has a fan for cooling. As I'm understanding it, the Chinese are in a mad race.... their lax patent rules and enforcement are coming back to haunt them, so the legit suppliers are stepping up efforts for quality in manufacturing and improvements in design while petitioning and pushing the government to crackdown on the patent/copyright infringers. But I digress... I discovered the sequence of events and Murphy's part in this.... the water pump failed during a long, high-powered cut (which I contributed to per the above) which took out the tube from overheating... which took out the power supply.. which took out the controller board. Water pump and controller are on order and should be here late this week. I think that when the tube went, the 25kV followed the water down the high voltage cable to the power supply and there, all havoc was unleashed. Oh... all this equipment went out in the process of protecting the fuses. Not a single fuse blew. Go figure. As time permits, I'm still working on the cradles, but given the state of the workshop with laser parts all over, there's not much bench space for ship work.