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Everything posted by mtaylor
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They did. There are also battles recorded where the gunners would reach across and take the other guys tools... fight each other with swords and pikes. Sometimes they were that close together.
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Tools and Supplies for My "Shipyard"
mtaylor replied to daveward's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I had that cut-off saw and binned it. Sloppy tolerances on the miter and cutting head were the reason. Even the markings on the mitre were off. -
Thanks for the likes and comments. That's what I had on the plans for cutting the rudder... HIndsight...it's wrong. Also, I used the wrong size pintle and cudgeon material. I'm adding this to my "lessons learned". I take another look and see if I can fix it although without destroying the stern planking, I'm not sure.
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Whoops... ok.. I tapered the edge of the garboard towards the keel at the bow. The rest of the plank(s) for the garboard strake to the rear are untapered. My bad....
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Greg, I had to think about what you were asking.... the quarter galleries go there to hide the ugliness. We can't just have a doorway from the Great Cabin to the water can we? Or maybe I can forget the gallery and add a diving board.. hmm.... what would Popeye do???
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I too am grinning from ear to ear... looks spectacular.- 4,151 replies
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- cutty sark
- tehnodidakta
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Dave, I'll take a shot at what I can... I'm by no means an expert. I'm building my first ship using spiling... the rest were.. shall we say, not following any known method. The thickness is a big variable. It depends heavily on what thickness the ship needs and more so on the scale. A 1/16" thick plank would be way too thick for a 1:96 model and way too thin for a 1:24 in most cases. The garboard is usually straight on the edge along the keel and tapered on the upper side. Your mileage may vary depending on the ship/boat design. Most folks do start at the wales first as this a key dimension. Some go up next, others go down depending on their preference. Bending the wood is a matter of water and heat... some use steam, others just soak, others a combination of soaking and heating (using everything from a soldering iron to a curling iron to electric plank benders. Tapering is also a judgement call.. taper both sides, top, or bottom. As for spiling.. wide planks get cut down to fit (tapered). If the plank is narrow enough, sometimes it can be tapered and edge bent. I know... nothing definitve.. right? I'd use the Beginner's Guide first to get a feel for the wood and process and then on your next ship, use one of the other tutorials for spiling, etc.
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Seeking information on determining load waterline
mtaylor replied to trippwj's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Bruce, I think I agree. It's sort of like in certain states in the US that for taxation purposes there's a formula for HP of an automobile. It has zip to do with real world measurements and (in this case, autos) it's seldom the same from State to State. -
Cathead, Rule of thumb here applies: Get the Admiral's input first!!!! I'm sort of an all-wood type so I won't vote due to built in bias.
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I love the way it looks in that bottle. And the mini-ship in the top... Beautiful work, Igor.
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I hope you don't mind, I'll stand over out of the way and follow along.
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Thanks for the likes, the comments, and the ideas. Carl, I think you might be onto something. I never thought about coming in from the top. I'll take another look this week and see. Pat, I seem to recall that build also... too many years ago,.. <sigh> Oh yes, I'm logging the lessons. Here's the rudder in it's not quite or maybe it is, final form. (Rudder coat notwithstanding). I've added the strop and the chains. Now that's back in it's jig, I'm going to attend to several things... the rudder coat install from the top, the carvings <takes a deep breath>, the quarter galleries, and a bit if finishing up the sanding on the inside of the hull. And the pictures. I'm pretty happy with it even with some issues that the macro brings up..
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For English ships, the breeching rope is the same size as the cannon bore. And (I hope I'm recalling this right) 2 and 1/2 times the length of the bore. Thus, when the gun is fully run in, there's about 18" to 2 feet between the muzzle and the the port cill.
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Seeking information on determining load waterline
mtaylor replied to trippwj's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Since this is a "working notebook" it might be that the earlier version of his calculation was his equivalent of thinking out loud. -
That is a great looking wheel, E&T. And an very interesting method of designing and building it.
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Mike, Welcome to the "Let's flip it over and see what it looks like right side up" club. She's looking very good.
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Thanks for the likes, comments, and suggestions including those via PM. After many attempts and much aggravation, I'm giving up on the rudder coat. I've learned a few lessons on this and presumably the time spent counts towards the 10,000 hours that Druxey mentions. I've tried silkspan, paper, cloth, even foil. I considered sculpy clay and may still try that but for now... I'll move on. It boils down to at this moment, there's not enough room to work. I went too far on the stern build out and rudder installation. The lessons.. 1) Think not just 100 steps but a 1000. When I planked the counter, I put on Wipe-on-Poly.... errr.. no. Should have waited. (Not thinking far enough ahead). Possibly I needed to sort the rudder coat at this time but definitely before fitting the rudder into place. 2) When I buildt the rudder, the pins on the rudder irons should have been a bit longer and tapered before soldering up the irons. (Lack of knowledge.. need deeper research early on). 3) By tapering the pins and opening up the recesses in the rudder, the rudder could be removed and re-installed easily. (Doooh... moment). Anyway, for now, I'll take a pass, not worry about it but continue to think. If I get an "ah-ha" moment, I'll add it later. Meantime, I'm adding the strop and the chains.
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Beautiful, Patrick. And here I am thinking that some of what I'm trying to do is "too small".... yikes! BTW, I found the remote but sneezed. For all I know, it's floating around on the wind currents and headed to the east coast of the States.
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What many of the scratch builders do also is leave a gap in the external planking. This gives a slot that the channel can fit right into to help support it.
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Alex, I stumbled across this while looking for something else... I don't know if you saw it: http://www.aamm.fr/boutique/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=250
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The line would have been tarred after seizing and the line put into place from what I've read. Otherwise it makes a big mess on things. The tarring was Stockholm Tar which is a light brown when fresh. It does darken with age but from the previous discussions here on MSW, it really never goes black.
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