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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. That is thin, Ray. But if you go a bit bigger, silver solder the end closed it might just be what you need. I'm not sure the photo etch can go that small. Most plastic kits, the eyebolts are plastic and way oversize to begin with just for the strength reasons. I think that even Daniel's (Dafi) offerings in photo etch for 1:100 (Heller's Victory) might be a bit large. Chuck's not offering photo-etch to my knowledge so I'm not sure where you can find something at the needed and still have the strength. The one thing about plastic models is that OOB the fittings won't take a lot of stress from the rigging so you might not be putting as much tension on them as you would with a wood model. To be safe, some testing would be needed....
  2. Another one for the fleet, I believe. Nice work, Tadeusz.
  3. Nice work, Rusty. Do you mask off the not-the-wales planks or ??? Curious since most seem to paint the wales first.
  4. Charlie, As Chico Marx once said: "There is no Sanity Clause!". We might be nutz, but it's a good nutz.
  5. Bingo!!!!!!!!!!!! You got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  6. Ray, If you can find some thin brass wire of the right size you can make those eyebolts. Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4308-in-need-of-tips-and-techniques-for-making-eyebolts
  7. Charlie, A serious bash like this will get you into scratch and the ships you want to build a lot quicker than building OOB. To my way of thinking, it frees the mind from the limiting issues of "it's a kit" to "it's a blank canvas". You haz a good plan...
  8. Keith, A good step by step is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/760-how-to-add-a-build-log-link-to-your-signature/ Nice workshop...
  9. Off and running (or maybe making sawdust) and looking grand, Alan. I imagine you're pretty chuffed right now to be underway.
  10. Walter, Good to hear back as I was wondering if everything is ok. When the turbulence settles, you'll know it's time to get back to the model. I'm happy to hear Linda is stable and you're finding time to take care of you.
  11. A lovely little vessel, Walter. Congratulations.
  12. Your work area is better stocked than some of the hobby shops I've been in, Jim.
  13. I find it's not hard, Jeff. What is a kit? Some wood, some string, some plans, and some usually very bad instructions unless it's one of new ones*. In this case, you source the plans, the wood, etc. It's not overwhelming if you just think of it as a series of steps. I actually wrote down a series of steps/mileposts before I began. Well, that list has expanded and things moved around a bit. But that works. Thanks for the complement. My goal is to build this one the best I can and the next one will be even better. *I do hear good things about the instructions written by Chuck, Dusek, and Maristella. I hope other companies will pay attention.
  14. Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. I quite agree George. The big carving will finish it off, although I'm still thinking about the other things that are not clear on the drawings. This was just a simple 8-pd frigate. I'm either going to do an acanthus leaf "thingie" on the lower part of the taffrail or maybe a vine type of thing. Leaving it plain has a certain appeal also... Thanks Mobbsie. I think she has a nice bum also. Thanks Carl. I wasn't too sure how it was going to come out. If not for some some advice in the background on some issues it probably would have not been a pretty sight. I've not worked with any other maple at this point, Sam. It seems to work about the same as boxwood, maybe pear. It's hard but does take a bend with a little persuasion. It seems to take an edge well and it's almost as white (and a lot cheaper) than holly. I do? I think the ship's looks better than mine.
  15. I think, that if you go with the wood, use several pieces and scarf them together. Whatever you feel good about doing, test on some scrap first. You might even find that the 3/16" wide wood will work for you.
  16. A beautiful build, Mike. I do hope you'll put it a display case for protection.
  17. I like what you're doing and the LED's should be a great addition. Looks intriguing at this point and headed to fantastic.
  18. No glue on the bulkheads? This is interesting. Looking good, Don.
  19. Stunning work, Johann. I can't believe all the detail you have packed into these small boats.
  20. Ron, Quick question.... are any lights coming on? Exterior? Motherboard? Reseat all PS connectors first. Get a meter and check the power supply. I've seen the PS's die and they're fairly cheap and simple to replace. Lastly, it could be the power button is bad.
  21. Craig, What Jud said. Wait for reviews. We've had several topics on some these over the years. There was one, and I can't find it so it may have been lost in the Great Crash, but it was red and mostly plastic. Underpowered, parts didn't quite fit, etc. Unimat is the only one I've ever seen recommended and usualy the old, discontinued model. A caveat on reviews... there's been much about these in certain media sources that often the reviews are written by paid reviewers to extoll the virtues. So be cautious about the raves and also about the extreme negatives as some of those are paid for by competitors.
  22. Brian, They could have been only 1.5 feet tall. But that's only if the hammock was rolled and then folded in half, which some navies did. I'm not sure if the American's did though. Might ask this here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/13-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/ i wonder what the replica has? I think I'll do some Googling. Edit: The photos of her on the web show that the 1.5 foot high hammock rails seem to be right. For example: http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/05/13/22/3f/erie-maritime-museum.jpg
  23. Denis, I apologize for not commenting more. Life has been getting in the way of many things of late.
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