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Everything posted by mtaylor
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An excellent recovery, Noah. I think "bummed out" wouldn't describe it, though. From my end, there would be more angst.
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To spile or not to spile...
mtaylor replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Indeed it has, Joel. -
Bolt Heads on Brass Strips
mtaylor replied to mikiek's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Richard, Liver of sulfur only works on copper. It won't do brass. -
To spile or not to spile...
mtaylor replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I just finished spiling my current build. It was a first for me and it does beat edge bending. I actually did both due to some of the compound curves and tapers involved so spliing got it close then bending, twisting, etc. Spiling wins hands down, IMO. -
USS Essex by spongbob - American Frigate
mtaylor replied to spongbob's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Bob, Usually, the area that you have labeled "shadow" is solid except for a door. The quarter galleries are the Captain's and senior officer's seats of ease. One on each side. There would be the three windows on the outside of it however. Other than that, everything is looking sharp. -
Brig Eagle by robnbill - 1:48
mtaylor replied to robnbill's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
That is a great looking stand. -
Eric, I used "extra coarse" 80 grit, flexible fingernail files from a beauty supply house. Then after "close" went to 100 grit files and then 180 grit files. They're flexible and when they wear out, I toss them. I'm getting them for something like $.50 per file as my Admiral is a "member"... one doesn't have to be a professional to be a member. I've also used sticky back sand paper from the DIY place with the same grits but applied to 1/16" plastic sheets. The sheets are flexible and I've had them for years. I don't remember where I got them.
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Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. I cleaned up the bow area where at the beakhead to get it straight and plumb. I'm just about finished sanding the inside.. still have some tricky areas to clean up. I'm also working on the stern which is a horse of a different color. I've thinned it out some more, and am looking at the way the taffrail fits (it doesn't but that's very fixable), the carvings on the taffrail and the trim (for lack of a better word) above and below the windows. The framing where the taffrail sits is quite what I hoped for so I'll be removing it and replacing it using some pieces copied from the plans and cut with the laser but I think I want to try re-shaping it before I start cutting things away. I'll show the process later when it's done. On those trim pieces, it appears Hahn used two types of wood for each of these, but I'm giving it some thought as many of the French ships have one solid piece that's been shaped using a scarper. Also, I'm in disagreement with some of the carvings.. more research needed. I'm also removing selected bits of the framing between the cut-line and the build board for access. Umm... David... it's got one coat of wipe on poly on it. I don't think it's fungus, Tony. When the sawdust was mixed with the poly is when it went black. And not every "batch" of sanding dust/poly went black in the gaps. That's the weird part. But, for now, I'm not going to worry about it.
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In the database, there is a good article by John Tilley on sails: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php
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Looking good, Matti. To edit your title, go back to the very first post and hit "edit". Then hit "use full editor". Then you should be able to change the title.
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Looking good, Mike. The lighting does give it an "old" look that's interesting. Use all 800 lumens or better and still don't have enough light. Maybe one of these days... rip out the wiring and redo all the lighting. Looking at the photos, I suspect you won't need a lot of sanding for fairing the hull....
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
As one bogged down in Life.. it is always getting in the way.... I know that one well, Nenad.- 4,152 replies
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Remco, Yoiu might give some thought to touching up using an archival black pen. I've seen some others use this to cover. I can't say it's perfect and will stay black, however. I did use one on my Triton cross-section where some of the ebony was "blotchy"... not pure black, and so far it seems to be staying black but it's only been 5 years on that.
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Looks like a great plan, Ray. I'm pulling up a chair for this.
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Jim, We are our own worst critics. I know I'm the most critical of my own work, but I'm trying to back off the self-critical part... maybe just a bit.
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Are the "stops" then the same thing that many of us have been calling "sills"? Between the frames and not completely covered by the planking? I was also under the impression that with full lids, the planking would stop short of the sides (linings or frames). The lid when closed would end up flush (or nearly flush) with the planking.
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