mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Looking pretty good. I've not done this kit, so I'm just sort of following along. I saw your questions in the other area and thought I'd drop in. MSW is a great resource. If there's specific questions about something... do like you did with your deck question. Ask it in the appropriate area where more eyes will see it. BTW, power tools are not sacrilege. Just about everyone uses them.
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Build Deck Separately
mtaylor replied to mikiek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Mikie, Have you had a look at the other Niagara build logs? I'm not sure how they did (and there's quite a few) but the logs would also tell you how they did it and what problems they ran into. -
Druxey, I'm looking at that drawing (above) and it looks like the top of the lower plate overlaps the upper... I agree on the stern. Am I miss interpreting somewhere? I think that starting at the keel the lower plate would be overlapped by the top one. I hope I'm having a senior moment on this... Edit: I just doubled checked Le Venus... the same drawing and text states that the upper plate is overlapped by the lower one. The plate to the rear is overlapped by the one in front. Stern to bow and wale to keel. Edit to the Edit: I double-checked Belle Poule and now it gets messy.. no word on how she was plated in her early years as some point, the plating was removed. However, in 1780, she was re-plated and the lower one is overlapped by the upper one and the rear overlapped by the one in front. Stern to bow and keel to wale. The problem I think, is the Brick is after both Belle Poule and Le Venus although Le Venus is closer in time to the Brick. And then there's the variation in the various shipyards in France as to the way things were done. I think I'll just wander off mumbling to myself... scratching head... Two ships and not plated the same way... puzzling.
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Be careful of using "too much" pressure as it can create issues down the road by crushing the wood. I've heard both good and bad about Titebond. Gorilla is the big problem child as it foams in the joint and tries to separate the pieces. Looking good Julie. You're getting excellent advice and counsel from Keith. I'm just following along with a cup of coffee....
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
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Aye... lots of beverages on this one... I've not done the yacht/schooner types. I think I'll stick with something simple like frigates and 74-gun ships... :P
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Go for it Jack... I guess you're in one of those "I've got 2 choices" situations. I would have thought they ran fully up.... but then again... <shrugs> I have no idea. Have you tried running a batten or two and see how they land?
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Inspirational work, Giampieroricci. I didn't realize how tiny that was until I saw on your finger.
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Fam, From the drawing, it would appear that you'll need to start at the top and work towards the keel. Your translation of the text seems to indicate also... which is the way Le Venus is coppered. Looks like the same drawing also.
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Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
mtaylor replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
Anders, Rumor has it that the Billings is no longer in business or reorganizing (depending on the source). Have you tried Googling? Maybe E-bay or Amazon? The fitting kit is #485 Having said that.... someone might be able to help with what's in the fittings kit. -
Greg, I Googled "steamboat Sultana" (without the quotes and then added "model". I also did one with "plans" instead of "model". Lots of news items but little of help to us modelers. Maybe drilling down deeper might yield something?
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Indeed, it is. Many of the mills that look like that along with many of the mini-lathes come come out of Central Machinery in China. BTW, here's a good link that has a lot of info: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php Bob, What Frank suggested. Having said that, I wouldn't buy things until you think you need them. I have, for example, an edge finder that I've used once. Then again, I'm newbie and may not be fully able to utilize it.
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Greg, A quick Google doesn't show a kit.. but I did find some links http://steamboats.com/museum/lossingmodels.html http://www.arkansas.com/attractions/detail/sultana-disaster-museum/96771/ There's plans listed here: http://steamboats.com/museum/lossingmodels.html You will probably have to do a scratch build....
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So far, so good, Jack... Looking very prim and proper. There's no pics of the stern? I would think there should be... Hmm... Have tried Googling and seeing what others out there have done? <scratches head>....
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Little boat looks great, Denis. You have eyebolts underneath it. Just run the lashing from one over to the other.. 2 lashings.
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Chuck, Your logs are one of those that set the standards for tutorials. Beautiful smithy work.
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Lovely work.. and so clean. Keep it up, Mark. You're doing great.
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Bob, Other than the rotary table, what accessories did you order? Kind of hard to add to the list if we don't know. I can relate to the Christmas card from the bank... I get one from the credit card company.
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Methods on the "puzzle" varied from country to country, and sometimes shipyard to shipyard depending on what wood was available. There's a Fair American in the scratch area along with two Rattlesnakes that might help. In the kits, there's an Armed Virginia Sloop by DocBlake. There's books for specific ships and classes, but I'm not sure which one would work for the Fair American. Perhaps one of the other members might know for certain.
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Define "best"? Location? Price? Service?
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That's great news, Bob. I agree, that kind of turn around is unheard of.
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Hmm..... Let me simplify.... here's a picture. The planks between the first wale and the last are all wide and thick. Starting after the first, they all get thinner until they're at the same thickness as the lower planks. They also change in width. I've taken a bit of liberty on the width change as I wasn't sure I could match the width at each strake. If I were doing this again <cold shiver up the spine> I would as I'm more confident and comfortable with what's needed. As for the tapering I mentioned, I lined off the hull, figured out how many strakes I needed and marked every frame to show the width. Do to the shape of hull, the planks take some "unique" twists, turns and tapering. It's not a uniform taper. I hope this helps. If not, let me know and I'll try to show it differently. The other ships (kits) I've done, and the ships I have plans for (English and American) don't have a lot "strangeness" to them by comparison. Edit: Click the picture to make it bigger and readable.
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