mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Fam, The false keel or "shoe" as you call it, was designed such that if the ship grounded, it would protect the keel from damage. It was designed to break apart if need be. I wouldn't copper it. As for the waterline, I agree with the others. I liked the planking you did and now it will be coppered over and hidden.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Those are some ambitious plans... I like it!!!! I also know that no matter what you decide, you'll do a great job. I'm glad things have calmed down around there.- 4,152 replies
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Hi Mehmet, It does look well used and on the verge of being sent to the scrapyard. I've not seen any pictures of the hull below the waterline so I can't say if she' not seaworthy. Maybe pull some planks off here and there and replace them with newer looking planks to give the appearance that the owner is trying to keep her in use? I'm not sure what your vision of this boat is so it's really hard to offer a judgment on if it's overdone.
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Hmm... the news articles are saying it "blew up". Strange.
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GALEON SAN JOSE FOUND WORTH $10 BILLION
mtaylor replied to marinero's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Ah...lawyers and money. Who would have thought...? I hope some sound archeological work gets done in the recovery process. -
Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
mtaylor replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
That's excellent new, Lars Peter. Is there new website or a link? I think a lot builders would like to know what kits are available. -
Tony, Caulking is really a question you'll have to answer. Do some test planks using scrap (and off ship) and see what you like best.
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I'm looking through my notes and I'll do some more looking. Maybe... zu Mondfeld has something... or not.
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Thanks Glenn. I've wondered about that off and on over the years. I used to live near St. Louis and the history of steamwheelers and the exploding boilers. This subtopic got me wondering again.
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Let's add in that out of 600 men, probably 300 were sleeping at any given time due to the way the watches were set up.
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Paul, What Mike said... and I'll add "very well done". I like the color choices also. So, go splice the main brace and tell us what the next project is.
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That's true, Nenad. I stop every few strokes and run my hands over the hull. Time-consuming it I but I don't inadvertently get low spots from too much pressure where my fingertips are. This is one of those jobs that everyone really has to find out what works best for them.
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Depending on the severity of the edge bend, you can sometimes get away with soaking and heating the plank. By pre-bending, you'll also reduce the stress the framing, etc.
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Well done on the woldings, Jeff. Looking good.
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Jesse, What Ken shows would be for the top half of the port. The lower door hung open. When they needed to be closed, a hook and rope would have been used to catch the eyebolt and then pulled up. As I understand it, on some ships, the ropes would have left attached (Captain's choice) and tied off at the breeching ring. To secure them, they would have been tied up from the lower lid to the rings in the upper lid. On some ships, the securing ropes when to an eyebolt. I'll see if I can find picture. I wondered the same thing when I did the spilt lids on my Constellation and it took a bit of research to find out.
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Tim, That's a great bit of detail on the monkey ropes that most would overlook. I know I would have.
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Kevin, Your detailing speaks for itself.. careful and obviously time-consuming. She's looking really great
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Glenn, I'm curious, given the rather muddy nature of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, did they have a settling tank or some filtration system? I would think that the muddy water wouldn't be good for the boilers.
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Splice the main brace, indeed, Mick. Those hawse timbers look perfect from here. They are indeed some the trickest and most fiddly bits of the framing.
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Frégate d'18 par Sané , la Cornélie
mtaylor replied to JohnE's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Sweet, John. Those are some nice lines. For some reason, even though most of my research books are for English ships, I find myself be drawn into the French side. Which creates headaches since I neither read nor speak French. My Admiral says I barely speak American some days. :D -
The biggest thing I've found and also recommened in TFFM is NOT use sandpaper with just your hand. Back it with something stiff but flexible.. like the cardboard of the back of a notepad. I use some thin plastic sheets I acquired seemingly eons ago for some vacuum molding projects. These give you a good feel for what is being sanded and also the flexibility to handle curved surfaces. Also sanding sticks.. just some scrap wood with sandpaper glued to them for those small, difficult areas. I also use the disposable nail files and sanding bricks (they're really foam covered in sandpaper) that one can get from beauty supply houses.
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Paul, Think crew... gunners, sailors working the rigging, soldiers, etc. She wasn't a simple frigate but a 64 gun ship. There was post yesterday: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12174-galeon-san-jose-found-worth-10-billion/ and the links inside the article give more info.. http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/dec/06/wreck-spanish-galleon-treasure-haul Also, the ship blew up.. possibly a magazine explosion and survivors would have been few. Have a look at the Battle of Nile when L'Orient blew up and the number of survivors and that ship had a larger crew.
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Well.... he would know, wouldn't he?
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JP, Do a search in the Masting and Rigging area. There's been lots of posts. Many use the square timber, plane it to 8 sides and round it, others use a lathe. I think someone (and I don't remember who at this point) actually did a made mast to scale. As for a lathe.. any of the brands that are similar to the one I linked to are made by the same Chinese company. There are some minor differences. The only thing I can warn you of is that most will require some work to be usable. Notably setting the slide gibs and truing up the chuck. The LittleMachineShop link is a good place for information. If you go to the "Learning Center" link on the top of their page there's assorted documents which explain things pretty well.
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