mtaylor

Ah.... forget anything with English ships. Your's appears to be the French Le Requin. I should have checked.. and yes, you're right... possibly that's the way his instructions say to do it. What do your plans show? My reference (since I don't have the ANCRE monograph) is The Art of Ship Modeling by Frolich and even that doesn't really have much detail as to parrells, etc. It does show the massive halyard blocks at top of the masts.

Hi Doug, Welcome to MSW. As Robin suggested... Google Chebec and also separately Xebec. Here on MSW, there's only one that got the point of the rigging being completed: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5126-xebec-160-scale-scratch-build-by-mij/page-3 The pictures might help you out.

Been awhile since I was able to look in. Beautiful work, Michael.

Just incredible and it looks that door would actually work... almost scary how realistic it looks.

A knife and a fork....

Nice metalwork.. that ram looks great.

Allen's paper is in the database also... under the Furniture section. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php I guess I should have mentioned it....

I swear that they have music and are dancing.... :D Brilliant work, Daniel.

Dave, Here's a set from the database: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/furniture/stove.PDF

If the jig is working, it can't possibly be ugly, Mike. I like it.

I thought 1:48 would be large but 1:36 will almost need a room of it's own...

Ok.. that works. I wasn't sure since the 220V power supply in the unit is also available as a 110V power supply.

Just incredible, Jay. Great work, indeed. That turkey made me smile.

Breathtaking work, Siggi. Knees where "beneficial"... under the poop's gunports maybe?

Congratulations Ben (and to your Admiral)!!!! I guess you'll be starting a second ship for your son at some point!?

No, it's not the American 220VAC, George. It has the, I believe it is, the European style plug with round posts. I've run into these on cruise ships and some other places and it's what's on my cutter.. err.. LaserKnife.

Tom, Checked out the new manual. Maybe I read it wrong... the new units have a 110V Power Supply. Is this a 110V input as I think it is? The setup and much of the rest of the manual tell the user to plug it into a 220V source which would not be a good thing. I stopped reading at that point and thought I'd better ask.

Hi Tom, Thanks for the feedback.. and no hard-hat needed. We're a pretty friendly bunch. If you not familiar with this hobby, we do use a lot of exotic hardwoods and do some things maybe differently than say the RR hobby. Part of what made me look into this was the woods and thicknesses listed that you tested. If all it had said was "basswood" or "nothing more than 1/8" thick;", I wouldn't have bothered. Anyway.. 30 day trial period is a fair testing time. And the customer service problem is understandable. I just felt abandoned on my questions. I'm happy you're updating the manual. I'd be happy to take a look at it if you'd like. I spent the first 25 years of my working life as tech writer for various companies. I hope there's a better explanation of how to align the mirrors. That was a tough one.... At this point, the machine is doing what I ask of it... I've listed my parameters elsewhere about wood thickness and what woods work and don't work. My initial testing was truly a "let's wring this thing out and see what it will do"... along with "what did I learn today?". Anyway, I do have a fairly complete list of the quality issues (I understand... first batch) and also a couple of improvements. 1) The honeycomb bed wasn't level. The spacers that hold it up, on two of them, the screws were stripped. Also, they were not evenly countersunk so until I re-did the countersink, the bed wouldn't fit level. 2) The bed was a tighter fit at the one end than the other in the machine due to the pop rivets being different heights from the frame. Relieving this also helped it sit level to the lens mechanism. 3) The lens issues. The tube when extended out for thin cardstock or woods canted because of the play between the tube and holder. My suggestion is either move the securing screw down about 1/4" or increase the height of the spacers between 1/4" and 1/2" inch. This will improve the performance and repeatability of cuts if that play can be minimized. I'll flip the lens back and re-test based on your input. The flipping might be a good point to put in the manual as the etching I think we would do, is mostly very fine, a light surface burn to highlight or in my case to mark the wood for carving. Right now, I'm still fiddling and testing various power levels and speeds on given thicknesses and wood types. I'm also sorting out accounting for the kerf thickness on drawings I'm making.

I guess the answer is "it depends"... a bit of Googling turns up: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?155809-peach-tree-wood about halfway down this page: http://www.museumfurniture.com/wood/ http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/wood-and-materials/5453.htm http://filipfrydrysiak.com/about-wood/

Interesting concept... an Admiralty style riverboat.....

Rob, It's in here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php In the tools section.

Jack, Contact Dafi via PM here on MSW. I'm not sure who does his photoetch but it's over there on your side of the Atlantic.

thanks for the feedback, gentlemen. If anyone is interested I do have a complete list of quality control items that I found that have to be address. I guess I'm so jaded by the lack of quality control in Chinese goods that I just fix them and go on my merry way. I have yet to see any product involving tech that doesn't have these or similar issues. Jack, I'll be using a mix. I have some Dockyard micros, assorted Swann-Morton plastic surgeon scalpels, a micro-motor and assorted micro cutting and grinding burrs. Along with the obligatory lighted magnifier and an optivisor. I'm looking forward to doing those... and holding my breath about doing them at the same time. .

That is well done mortar pit, Grant. If you hadn't mentioned the carling cuts being off, we probably wouldn't have noticed.

Xander, Gently cut them free with a #11 Xacto type blade. You'll have this probem with laser cut, CNC cut, or stamp cut. The wood around the pieces protect them. It's just takes a wee bit of time to cut them loose.