mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Ok goodie.. there's a chair available.... <grabs chair> I'll wait patiently.
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- fair rosamund
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Pops, Edge bending is probably the toughest thing to do. Some say it's doable, others say impossible. Part of the problem is the type of wood, the amount of bend vs the width and thickness. I might be better to just get some stock and cut the wood out and sand and fit for the curve.
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Update time... I needed a break from cutting out frames having done about half of them so far. So.... installed the first three frames, added spacers for strength and position, and cut the bridle port. The keel is just set into position as are the upper and lower sills for the port to help in squaring everything up. The bridle port is build up on the frame sides and the upper and lower sills rest on the "build up" with the middle frame being cut out for the port. Thankfully, it's the only one like this. The rest are cut into the frames. There's a conumdrum on the plans. The cut-away with the ports outlined is more "square" where as the framing plan shows the fore end of this port higher on the hull. I went with the framing plan. I hope I picked correctly.
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Chris, There's two kinds of pear wood. The pear cut from the tree and allowed to dry and swiss pear which is the same wood but steamed which gives it the pink color. Both Hobbymill and the Lumberyard have both.
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The most silent disk sander
mtaylor replied to Mike Y's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mike, Since you have a dremel, you can make it into a disk sander. Here's I use for small stuff... I took a mandrel and recessed the center area a bit. Then attached a felt pad to it. I then rubber cemented a piece of sandpaper to the pad and shaped it. When the paper wears out, I pull it off (sometimes with the assistance of a bit of acetone) and glue on a new piece. It works pretty well, in my opinion. I also use it for sanding decks and certain areas of the hull while fairing.
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Congratulations and a very well done, Hamilton. I don't have a clue on the missing part what I see is great!!!!!
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Sam, If you find the secret to not breaking bits and taps, you'll make a fortune.
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Nicely modified on the ladders. I always thought AL put in too many. For my money, you could have removed all the side ladders and just left the ones from the fore deck and quarterdeck. The gunports on the fore and quarter deck? Correct, no lids as there would have no need to have them. Ok... a hog.. it's when the ship sags at the bow and stern. This kit has a slight curve in the bottom where it's high in the middle and low at the ends as was the original when AL designed the kit. Overall, AL didn't do a bad job on her, just got the scale a bit off and some odds and ends (like cannon barrels) but they did get the look that the Constellation had until it was rebuilt to it's original design.
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Excellent rebuild and Grant is right... add the title "Professional".
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Keep the beans, Augie and surprise us. Confed is looking great. Nice work on those clamps.
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- confederacy
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Nice work and good plan it seems. And yes, this is very good practice for when you cross over to the darkside.
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- caldercraft
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Thanks Druxey.
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1mm? Diameter? <does low whistle> Amazing work.
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I didn't even know there was such a thing... and you've done them beautifully. So in real life, they were made is sections? Interesting.
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Hi Tom, I'm pulling up a chair also. I hope you'll have fun with this build.
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I wonder how it compares to the book by David Cordingly (The Billy Rufian)???? Looks like it might be an interesting book.
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The power of the Internet.... It got Sjors windows right. Seriously... I love MSW for this very reason. All those eyes help when we miss something. Nicely fixed Sjors.
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- caldercraft
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Have a great trip and see you on the flip side...
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Jason, I think you can pretty much do it any way you want. One of MSW's tenets is: "You're the captain and it's your ship. Do it your way.". We might disagree based on historical evidence but it still comes down to the fact you have to be happy with it. On the ladders... the only historical significance of all those ladders was the "con job" (for lack of a better phrase) that was being foisted on folks to make them think that what sat in Baltimore harbor was the 1797 frigate and not the 1854 sloop of war that she actually was. You can take out the middle two on each side to allow viewing of the guns without issue. Side note, if you'll look carefully at the hull near the keel, you can see the hog that AL picked up from the ship when they designed the kit. It's interesting and also sad that AL has never changed the kit to reflect what it actually is. Nor did they bother to examine the few drawings/paintings of the 1797 frigate for accuracy. The 1797 is a square stern. The 1854 is a rounded stern. You're having a great time and doing a good job on her. So keep up the nice work and the fun.
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Scott, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6735-the-wreck-of-the-santa-maria-may-have-been-found/
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Nice work... love the paint and detail. On losing parts... ahem... I've found that bit of double-sided tape stuck to a spot on the workbench will keep them safe. Put them on the tape. However, some delicate parts don't come off very easily so you have to use care in what you stick to the tape. On the upside, they don't blow off...or get knocked off to the floor.
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Sweet bitts, Sam. As for the ladders... good practice for when you step over to the darkside.
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Yikes... that is tiny. Well done, Dave!!!
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Sjors has it at his place, but I don't think he's here yet.
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